02 Town and Country

rjh1

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#1
First off Happy New Year ! Now the issue , 2002 Town and Country 3.8 L around 120000 miles . have code P0206 . what I've done thus far . . removed intake to check wiring to injectors to see if the harness was melted or not and it was not . ohmed all the injectors and they were in spec , checked wiring connector under battery tray for corrosion and it was clean . installed new plugs and wires while intake was off and replaced the battery it was weak and 8 years old . put all back started the van it runs smooth , let it run for about 20-25 min no hiccups , went for a short drive got about 1/2 mile and it started running rough ck eng lite back on and code P0206 again ? Has any of you run into this before and if so could you assist please .. .
 

kev2

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#2
injector circuit #6 cylinder- I show as front bank driver side cylinder is #6
The PCM is not seeing 12v on the driver siide of circuit - the wire going from inj to PCM.
A PCM pin out will help check the wire BUT lets start easy quick things first.

A noid light would help here - watching the flash as you shake inspect harness for open.
is there 12v at inj?
is the ground side open- not grounded?
shake tug on harness as you ck.
what was the #6 ohm esp in relationshio to others- was it way out of sequence? ie 14Ω, 13Ω, 6Ω
 
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#3
What about checking out the wire from the injector to the PCM for continuity while twisting and bending it.

Do you call that terminal clean? Get down and give me 50, LOL learned this in our military.

Problem could be in the PCM as well with soldering of the injector driver transistors. They do get warm, and can also experience flux connections. Hot soldering iron takes care of this. Do tell you not to remove the cover, their reason, no user serviceable parts inside. My reason, they don't want you to see about ten bucks of electronics they robbed you a thousand bucks for.
 

rjh1

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#4
ok ... got the fix it was a wire rubbing on the top of the transmission , but now have a egr code that won't erase ? funny but this is a model without a egr valve . 02 town and country 3.8 L
 

billr

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#5
What is the code number? Are you sure about the "no EGR"? I find one listed for that on rockauto...
 
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Not only the EGR, but an EGR valve and a transducer that tells the computer whether its working or not.

If the EGR stays open, typically carbon build up, engine will idle rough or not at all, depending on the degree of the leak. If it stays closed and you drive your T&C above about 1,500-1,600 rpm, will have high combustion chamber temperatures that will begin to burn up your exhaust valves. Also the engine appears to have more power.

Worse case is when the transducer is shot, EGR valve is stuck closed with no code warning, seen that several times, engine is shot. EGR is not too bad on this vehicle pricewise, vacuum operated, a hose can rot off. Those electric ones can cost a fortune. Constant treatment with Seafoam helps with higher mileage vehicles to get rid of that nasty carbon buildup. Its like a chain reaction, rings freeze shut, more blowby, then EGR problems, then a shot engine.

Nothing to sit on when that light comes on.
 
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#10
Vehicles with functioning EGR valves.
Vehicles built before September 18, 2001 (MDH 0918XX) at the Windsor Assembly
Plant (”R” in the 11th position of the VIN) and September 14 (MDH 0914XX) at the St.
Louis Assembly Plant (“B” in the 11th position of the VIN) will have functioning EGR
valves. Normal diagnostic and service procedures apply.
• Vehicles built with non–functioning EGR valves.
Vehicles built after the dates mentioned above through approximately the end of
October, 2001 will have a non-functioning EGR valve on the engine and may or may not
have an EGR vacuum harness. Vehicles built after approximately the end of October,
2001 will not have an EGR valve on the engine. In either case, the vehicle VECI label
will identify the EGR valve “non-functional” and have a dotted line to the EGR valve

As far as what I can find out is that they have a different program in the PCM if you have an engine with no egr valve. Did you have this code before you took the intake off? How long have you had this car? Is there a possibility that the program for a non egr system was altered when the wire for the injector was shorting out? Has the PCM been replaced? Just throwing out my $.02.

Bulletin #18-026-01 has more information on that vehicle concerning the EGR.
.
 

billr

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#11
OP, verify from that VIN info whether this car is supposed to have a functional or non-functional EGR valve. Note that it sounds like they all have an EGR valve, but some are "non-functional". Have you removed the EGR valve (regardless of type), maybe installed a blank-off plate in place of it? I'm trying to understand why you insist it doesn't have one...
 
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#12
Billr -- I have a 2003 3.8 Chrysler town and country and I do not have a EGR valve. That is why I knew what he was talking about. They did away with them for a couple years on these models. During the change over from a "functional" EGR to a "Non functional" EGR in the one year, they still had the EGR on the vehicle but there was no vacuum to it and the connector was taped back into the harness. They then did away with the EGR after a certain date and had no EGR at all on the engine. To quote the Bulletin #18-026-01 "Vehicles built after approximately the end of October 2001 will "not" have a EGR on the engine"

But like Billr said, you must verify that you or someone else did not take one off and blank it off.
 
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#13
Wow, what a mystery, unleaded gas needs something as combustion chamber temperatures can exceed 2,600*F that would burn up the valves if not holes in the pistons. Without a functioning EGR, the other method is to have variable exhaust valve timing whereas engine rpm increases, valves close sooner to leave combusted gases in the cylinder for the next intake stroke.

Never had a wrench on these things, son purchased a new 2002 T&C, helped him negotiate on the price, got $8,000.00 off the sticker price. Got rid of it about two years ago with 110K miles on it, wasn't worth repairing. At the same time my daughter purchased a 2002 Caravan, with 120K on, a head was cracked. She spent around $3,000.00 to get it repaired, but less than a month later her AT hit the dust. Both are driving Honda minivans now.

Younger son just purchased a new T&C anniversary edition, my kids have to, can't put three baby car seats in a conventional sedan. Hoping under Fiat that Chrysler got their act together. This son lives close, may have to put a wrench to it. See what happens. Still made in Windsor.
 
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#14
I think they only completely removed the egr valve on some of their engine for a couple years and brought them back after those years. Apparently it did not work that good with the egr removed. I know mine gets terrible gas mileage. Don't know exactly how the exhaust gases are controlled without the EGR.
 
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#15
To keep my 70 Buick Rivera running back in the 70's ran to my wrecking yard and pulled a 73 intake manifold with the carb and EGR attached. Back then, got that for around ten bucks before liability came about. Was either this or paying a $1.60 for leaded, and wasn't full leaded either or 70 cents per gallon for leaded. While I was at it, added an HEI ignition and a 10SI solid state alternator so didn't have to fool around with points anymore. No law required me to add cats that would be extremely expensive for a car with stock dual exhaust.

Oh, and I almost forgot, had to order Canadian thicker head gaskets to drop the compression ratio from 10.5 down to a more reasonable 8.9:1, Canada never had high test gas like we did. Still was a 20 mpg car if driven sanely. No such thing as high octane unleaded.

EGR was very simple, venturi vacuum though a thermal valve to the EGR. If that hose fell off or that valve didn't work, was an average of 600 bucks for a new valve job for the poor user, no warnings, and was great for shops. Today, with inflation, that same job would cost 3,000 bucks! Even a lot more with all this emissions crap and bolts that break off. For me, this was a pleasant Saturday project.

Have no idea how Chrysler could eliminate the EGR, know my daughter was driving hers around town creeping most of the time until a cracked head. Normally don't even kick in to above 1,700 rpm and very little feedback at that. 2,500 rpm on the highway would burn out an engine very quickly.

Would be grabbing a compression tester on this mini.