03 Accord Starting issues

billr

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#46
Hmm, I meant to post this yesterday...

Which
wire did you probe, the big one or the small one (with BLK/WHT wire attached)? What did the voltage on the other terminal do? Regardless, you have to leave both wires attached to the terminals while testing, and touch the other meter probe to the starter case, not the battery.
 
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#47
Hmm, I meant to post this yesterday...

Which
wire did you probe, the big one or the small one (with BLK/WHT wire attached)? What did the voltage on the other terminal do? Regardless, you have to leave both wires attached to the terminals while testing, and touch the other meter probe to the starter case, not the battery.
Starter is located behind the exhaust manifold and this would be impossible.
 

nickb2

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#48
Starter is located behind the exhaust manifold and this would be impossible.
Just cuz I like being disagreeable, you are wrong in this statement, it is located below/behind the intake manifold. And you can probe the starter case without removal of the intake. The rest can be done also as billr said with the leads attached.

This what we call a sub harness check.

I have done many checks like this before, once the air intake duct is removed, you can, if your patient, find a way to access those leads, or just do the check with the sub harness in place at the PDC center as Dan said and at battery.

It takes some pretty small and agile hands, but doable.

I got lost a bit in this thread, sometimes I have few beers to many, but I think Dan, Billr and I are all on the same page. So don't give up. You will get it.

Drinking and posting sometimes causes issues. But hey, we have fun here helping folks out. Don't hold that against me plz.

;)
 
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#49
The starter is tightly tucked behind intake manifold, and I'll bet OP typed "exhaust" but meant "intake". I have replaced several of those starters without removing the intake. I have small hands, and it was difficult.
 
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#51
Have you verified that the engine is not locked up?
The replacement starter....is it a new starter or a used starter?
So your starter has two wire connection points, a big one and a little one? With the big wire connected and the little wire disconnected, connect a new wire to the "little" connection at the solenoid and touch the other end of the new wire to Positive post of battery (or a safer spot, like a power feed connection in the fuse box). What happens? Expected result would be that the starter cranks the engine.
A classic "jump the starter" choice would be to touch the end of your "new wire" to the big wire connection at the solenoid. What happens if you do that?
Im not sure how to find out if the engine is locked up?
It is a new starter.
I have not tried these yet, will give it a shot this coming weekend.
Thanks
 

billr

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#52
Try turning the pulley on the end of the crank that drives the accessory ("serpentine") belt, to see if the engine is free to turn. There is often a large screw in the center of that pulley; put a wrench on there.
 

nickb2

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#53
Oops, forgot to mention, that crank bolt is very stubborn on these accords.

Be sure to use a ingersol or a cp to loosen that bolt. A wrench won't fit there. There is an access hole for the impact.
 

billr

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#54
The OP doesn't want to remove that screw, just turn the crank to verify the engine isn't seized...
 
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#55
Ok, finally had time to work on the car. Took the starter out again and tested it, it worked fine. Replaced starter back in the car with a lead wire hooked to the solenoid, placed other end of wire to positive battery post and the car started right up. I am assuming it is the ignition switch? I cant find a good write up on how to replace this though. If I am correct can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks for all your help.
 

billr

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#56
The ignition switch is one possibility, but you need to trace this back through both the starter relay and the neutral safety switch; one of those could be bad (as well as wiring).
 
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#57
Buy a new ignition switch.
Remove Steering column covers.
Look at your new switch to see where the bolts/screws go.
Loosen switch, remove electrical connector.
 
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#58
The whole lock assembly does NOT have to be removed to change the switch. I have replaced several for intermittent failure.