09 cobalt left turn signal intermittently not automatically shutting off

Discussion in 'Domestics' started by stanmile, Dec 18, 2010.

  1. stanmile

    stanmile Newbie

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    I have an 09 cobalt sedan LT with the 2. 2 automatic. The turn signals turn on fine and the right turn signal turns off fine, but the left turn signal intermittently does not automatically shut off. This mostly happens on turns that aren't very sharp, I've noticed that if you don't turn the wheel past 9 o'clock when making a turn, then it doesn't always turn off when going back to 12 o'clock. But, sometimes it does turn off. I know on older cars you had to remove the steering wheel and replace a round ring of some sort in the column, but I'm guessing that was an old school design and is probably not the case in these coblats. Any ideas where to begin? I've looked at a schematic of the electrical system, but there's only mention of the switch and doesn't show any mechanism that turns them off. By the way, car has about 49,000 miles.

    Thanks
     
  2. NickD

    NickD wrench

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    Same problem with my Cavalier, definitely not using the same number of teeth in that turn signal kickout gear as my other GM vehicles. Guessing since you have to turn the wheel at least 30 degrees, they are only using 12 teeth, then to complicate issues, the steering is very fast in this car.

    Wife that drove an MT all of her life lost points on her driving test for not using hand over hand steering and also shifting gears around turns, especially when entering the expressway. Hardly a turn in town where you have to turn the wheel over 20 degrees and the turns are so shallow would be hitting 5000 rpm if you don't shift in first gear. Convinced her to drive an AT car so she can pass her test with a much lower steering ratio.

    I just learned how to live with it, with right hand on the gear shift lever, stick my index finger out on my left hand to click off the turn signal lever after the steering wheel is centered. DMV is still living in the 30's when lock to lock steering was around a dozen turns, but living in the present when practically all vehicles have automatic transmissions. Knock points off any time you have to take your hand off the wheel to shift an manual.

    Have the shop manual on this car, don't show that gear and not about to fool with that air bag unless I really have to. Sure your car was that way since new as mine is.
     
  3. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    This car have warranty?
     
  4. stanmile

    stanmile Newbie

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    No more warranty on this car, other than power train,. . . just bought used recently. I was thinking that maybe it maybe an issue that I'll have to live with, although, the car is for my son, so I'd prefer to fix. . . but if it's too major an issue, may have to live with it.
     
  5. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Ok, checked this out for you, many cobalt owners having same problem. You need to remove the three screws from under the column cover. The levers are all separate units and can be removed by removing a few screws once the cover is removed. The turn signal switch in most cases can be opened, there is a straight strip of metal which acts as a spring that you need to bend a bit to make it a bit stronger and that may fix your problem. There should be no problem with airbag but to be on the safe side, remove negative battery cable from post and wait a few minutes before working around the steering wheel. The switch should have "made in CHINA" stamped on it!! :ROFL Here is the parts #
    ACD6212E. Suzuki XL-7 turn signal switch, may be cheaper cuz it wears the suzuki name. The unit costs 39.73$ so for that price, you should just replace instead of goofing around with the metal tab unless you want to learn a bit about turn switches and how they are made? :ROFL Here is the funny part, check these two links out and the price difference. One is for suzuki and the other for cobalt, same switch and part number.http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQChevroletQQCobaltQQAC_DelcoQQSwitch_AssemblyQQ20052009QQACD6212E.html
    http://www.car-stuff.com/suzukiswitchassembly.htm
     
  6. NickD

    NickD wrench

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    Was more aware of this when driving last night, using the horizontal as the reference or the nine o'clock position, when making a left turn, had to turn the wheel past the eight o-clock position before I heard a click. Didn't have a protractor with me, but perhaps more like 36 degrees of rotation before the turn signal would automatically disengage, but have to hear that click first before it will.

    If you are talking about a 90 degree shift, from 12 to 9 o'clock or 90 degrees, think you have a problem. But is it the switch or a worn gear, have to take it apart to check that. Good that NickB stepped in, really haven't paid attention to that either, see the upper and lower covers can be removed to gain access with removing the steering wheel, that's a nice touch. See that 40 buck switch also has the cruise control, quite a switch, cruise, headlamps, and the turn signals.
     
  7. stanmile

    stanmile Newbie

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    fixed
    Talk about some mickey mouse parts. . . I think I've seen sturdier parts in some of my kids toys. Thanks for your help guys. . . it was actual a pretty simple set up where there is a tab/cam that is part of the steering wheel that pushes on a little plastic lever that is part of the switch assembly, as the steering wheel is turned. Anyways, just as you described, inside the switch there is a very very thin metal strip that acts as a spring pushing the little plastic white lever out towards the steering wheel tab/cam. It was definitely bent outwards and all I had to do is take it off and bend it the opposite way. Hopefully it last a while. Honestly, I can see how this could be a really common problem on all cobalts considering how week and flimsy that metal strip is.

    Thanks again.
     
  8. NickD

    NickD wrench

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    Nick singing:

    M-I-C-K--E-Y M-O-U-S-----EEEE!

    Wife is finally getting a hang of the climate control, had to give her a severe caution on not forcing either the temperature or mode switch. Moist air freezes the doors and any kind of force will break those cheapass plastic parts. Although the engineering on your multifunction switch and climate controls is incredible. Daughter already broke her mode switch by forcing it, that was a job and an expensive to replace that piece of crap. Let her freeze for a week before replacing that, she is very careful now. And you cannot just by a cheap made in China plastic gear with all the teeth stripped off, have to buy a whole new climate control panel.

    Tell your son to be careful and use a very delicate touch. In the 60's, could buy a brand new car for one months paycheck, in my opinion, the way they are making cars today, should be two weeks paycheck, but instead, its more like a years paycheck.
     
  9. billr

    billr wrench Staff Member

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    Careful there NickD, there are some of us that remember the real facts about the 1960's.
     
  10. NickD

    NickD wrench

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    Yeah Bill, did very little mechanical work, practically all body work with rust.
     
  11. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    :ROFL I was just a thought in my dads head at that point in time. As for china, it's a conspiracy I tell you!! That's how you dominate the world, it's the small things at first, like flasher switches, you wait and see. It has just begun!! Got my foil hat on again. I demonstrated this with the two links I posted, how come the same switch is 15$ cheaper for the American version of the cobalt, don't it come from the same conveyor belt?. G.M. will soon be named Suzuki, and you will be paying for "cobalt" in Chinese Yuan after doing jumping jacks before your work shift.
     
  12. billr

    billr wrench Staff Member

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    That price difference is not a new phenomenon, remember my post a while back about the same valve lifter having a drastically different price (in the 60's), depending on whether it was sold as a Caddy part or a Pontiac part? Speaking of Suzuki, I am beginning to suspect the elusive OBD1 on my Saturns is actually the very secretive Suzuki protocol of that era.
     
  13. NickD

    NickD wrench

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    A lot has changed with the cost of an automobile, somehow this country was able to build an entire interstate for a nickel a gallon gas tax, today they can't even plow the snow at 55 cents a gallon. Then you could deduct that nickel for off road use from your income tax, can't deduct any transportation expenses today. First home I owned was in a city was paying $110.00 a year for property tax on a then $13,000 home and we had excellent school. In my neighbor, property tax is in the range of $5,000 to $12,000 per year and our schools suck.

    Can't even count the number of cars in good running condition I purchased for under a 100 bucks with the average price running around 50. A buddy was collecting Model A Fords, had over 50 of the darn things, thought he was crazy, but was only paying an average of ten bucks a piece for each one. No such thing as collector cars. A 41 Lincoln Continental yellow convertible was a bit too much for me at $250.00 buy was in perfect shape. But did get a 1937 Cadillac limo for 65 bucks in perfect running condition, with a V-16, that was a bit too much. Also had plenty of gas wars, could fill up the tank for about a buck.

    Complete overhaul gasket set for any GM V-8 engine was about four bucks, brushes for starters or generators ran 25 cents, complete fuel pump rebuilt kit was a buck for a single diaphragm, with the vacuum assist for the windshield wipers was two bucks, kind of steep. Carburetor rebuild kits also ran about a buck.

    Did buy a neat 48 Plymouth coupe, really clean for 40 bucks with a rod knock, went to my wrecking yard and found a 54 Dodge Pick up that was hit with only 11,000 miles on it, got the entire engine and transmission for 60 bucks, put that in for a perfect fit, was really a very peppy car.

    The big change started in 1972 when the newly formed EPA insisted that all passenger vehicles have a catalytic converter, that's when the price of vehicles really started to skyrocket. Dang things made most people sick since they were spitting out sulfuric acid, but it was for our health, so the EPA said. Today, your car is spying on you, but that is also for your safety. Insurance companies didn't even care if you dropped in a Caddy V-8 in a Ford coupe, today, switch the spark plug type, get hit by an idiot, they refuse to pay the claim because they say you modified your vehicle.

    Will take the old days anytime with freedom we had, and transportation compared to your income was a very low percentage, today, its astronomical. Back then, everyone was working on their cars, extremely rare today.
     
  14. twicelow

    twicelow Full Member

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    I have the same problem on my daughter's '07 Vue, 3.5 l V6 eng, 50K miles. My questions: 1. Does the Vue have the same part as the Cobalt, Cav, and Chevy cars. 2. I see the three screws that nickb2 referenced to. I'm always afraid to pry apart plastic parts, the never tell you where to pry and where the tabs..etc are. It's so easy to break them, then you're stuck with paying $30+ for a plastic 2 cent part. Any hints as to where to pry apart the two piece shroud. And any special way to remove the plastic ring around the ignition switch? This ring appears to help hold the lower part of the shroud in place.
     
  15. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    http://www.autopartsdeal.com/Parts_List/turn_signal_switch/saturn/vue/
    Link to a vue turn switch, looked at it, seems to be riveted, so dis-assembly is not ideal. As for column cover, just use down ward force, should come right apart without anything breaking, to not pry with screw driver as you will scratch or dent cover, hand force should suffice.
     

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