1988 old school Ranger 2.9 stalling

mjs

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#1
Make
Ford
Model
Ranger
Year
1988
Miles
225.000
Engine
2.9
1988 Ranger 2.9 auto... Stalls going down road. Does not start immediately. Takes at least 30 to 45 seconds before she starts back up. any ideas???? thank you all.
 

jd

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#2
I'm not a pro mechanic, just an old DIY and avid reader at BAT and other forums.
1. The Ignition Control Module/ICM, side mounted on the Distributor, is a Thick Film Integrated Circuit/TFI component. Ford made most of their OEM TFI ICM's and turned to Motorola to provide the rest. Many of Ford's TFI's failed, most of Motorola's did not. I know this happened because I know Motorola's engineer, but I don't know the timing of it. Specifically, if 88 Ranger 2.9 fell in the recall group where Ford put Motorola on everybody's vehicle. If your TFI says "FORD" on it and you don't know if it's been replaced, I think Risk $20 against Reward Fixed is worth it. Screws are recessed and access is tight so you might need a tool. It's called 7/32" but I think I ground a 5.5mm down to thin to get in there. Some were also TORX T2.
2. Slim probability but it happened to me: There's an Air Intake Charge Sensor (AIC, ATS, ACTS) which is a Thermistor. If it fails OPEN, which ours did, car suddenly thinks it's in Fairbanks in Winter and dumps such a rich mixture the engine will "flood" and quit. Symptom is Big Black Cloud. If it fails Shorted, car thinks it's in Death Valley Summer at Noon and mixture goes max lean. An engine that isn't warmed up will probably quit.
 

grcauto

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#3
What's missing when it stalls? Check for spark. Squirt a little carb cleaner in and see if it kicks. Need to know what system is failing.
 

jd

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#4
What's missing when it stalls? Check for spark. Squirt a little carb cleaner in and see if it kicks. Need to know what system is failing.
BAT used to have a section and maybe they still do where they reviewed car repair "stuff" and one was a gizmo called something like "What Quit First?" Electronic, it connected to the car's network and could tell if BAT's tech (I think it was Bruce) had disabled Fuel or Ignition causing the engine to quit.
 

DJ40

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#5
I had a similar situation but in my case the engine would not start intermittently. Then one day I started out my driveway and it stalled, and would not start again. After running through the shop manual ignition tests I finally determined the Hall Effect Device in the distributor was going bad and finally failed completely. A $60 dollar aftermarket distributor fixed the problem and was cheaper than replacing the bad device.
 

nickb2

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#6
I'm not a pro mechanic, just an old DIY and avid reader at BAT and other forums.
1. The Ignition Control Module/ICM, side mounted on the Distributor, is a Thick Film Integrated Circuit/TFI component. Ford made most of their OEM TFI ICM's and turned to Motorola to provide the rest. Many of Ford's TFI's failed, most of Motorola's did not. I know this happened because I know Motorola's engineer, but I don't know the timing of it. Specifically, if 88 Ranger 2.9 fell in the recall group where Ford put Motorola on everybody's vehicle. If your TFI says "FORD" on it and you don't know if it's been replaced, I think Risk $20 against Reward Fixed is worth it. Screws are recessed and access is tight so you might need a tool. It's called 7/32" but I think I ground a 5.5mm down to thin to get in there. Some were also TORX T2.
If your not a pro mechanic, you could have fooled me with that wealth of info. :eek:
 

mjs

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#7
What's missing when it stalls? Check for spark. Squirt a little carb cleaner in and see if it kicks. Need to know what system is failing.
never had time to check it just started back up when i let it sit for 30 sec....A little strange.
 

grcauto

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#8
never had time to check it just started back up when i let it sit for 30 sec....A little strange.
Could be a relay, ignition switch, ground etc...Need to do some testing to find out. If it gets worse, and it most likely will, you'll have more time to test for what's actually failing.
 
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#9
BAT used to have a section and maybe they still do where they reviewed car repair "stuff" and one was a gizmo called something like "What Quit First?" Electronic, it connected to the car's network and could tell if BAT's tech (I think it was Bruce) had disabled Fuel or Ignition causing the engine to quit.
JD sadly the company sold out to Snap On then after a few years dropped them. I still have mine and it has solved some cars other shops gave up on. They come up on ebay occasionally I bought one for a friend there!
 

nickb2

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#11
Spout and pip.

I think this is where another thread here had me going to mess hall.

Check this info mate, may be a source. Worth a try, it is only costing a tug. Stalling could be due to a bad connection @ ICM. Only way a engine like this cuts, is spark.
 

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