1995 Dodge ram 1500 4wd 5.2 auto 214,000 miles

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#1
Make
dodge
Model
ram 1500
Year
1995
Miles
214,000
Engine
5.2
was driving along and all of a sudden she started coughing and sputtering and just lost power now won't start gave no warning no nothing has fuel pressure(checked by pushing valve on fuel rail and getting heavy stream) figured out how to check codes (obd1 system) and get 12,32,32
code 32 is egr system failure and code 12 from what i looked at is "direct b attery input to pcm was disconnected within last 50 key on cycles not sure what the issue is was running fine then just all of a sudden starting sputtering and back fired out exhaust aprox 5 or 6 times as i tried to keep it running
 

billr

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#2
Do you have spark? If not, check for injector pulses. The absence of both spark and injector pulses would indicate the CKP sensor is bad.

If you do have spark, check fuel pressure and compression. If you do have spark, trying a quick blast of starting-fluid may indicate this is *only* a fueling problem. Do you have a timing light? Spark timing should be controlled by the PCM, but It may be necessary to confirm it is at least reasonable.
 
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#3
Do you have spark? If not, check for injector pulses. The absence of both spark and injector pulses would indicate the CKP sensor is bad.

If you do have spark, check fuel pressure and compression. If you do have spark, trying a quick blast of starting-fluid may indicate this is *only* a fueling problem. Do you have a timing light? Spark timing should be controlled by the PCM, but It may be necessary to confirm it is at least reasonable.
I don't have any of those tools or tech ability it's getting fuel I did the screw driver in plug wire on manifold but manifold has surface rust and think it maybe causing it to not ground out proper the truck was running and driving fine then with no warning it started coughing and backfired out the exhaust several times as I tried to keep it going ended up having to chain tow it home
 
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#4
1995 a trip in the way back machine-

The basic spark test bill mentioned - try at other plugs,

Ok this should be MPI and not a TBI, also you have a distributor.
So lets try KOEO,
is there 12v at coil?
is there 12v at injectors?
Ideally we want fuel pressure with a GAUGE - lets ignore as you try a simple test.

As someone tries to start vehicle spray some carb or brake clean into throttle body - did it hit, fire and try to start?
 

billr

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#5
Keep trying on the spark. Rust won't usually stop a spark.

If you have little-to-no tools or experience, and don't want to acquire them, this should probably go to a shop. Please advise as to your intent here, I can do little to help if you can't try various trouble-shooting procedures.
 
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#6
The 12 code is meaningless. All is well - Just indicates you are connected or some such thing.

I would not ignore the 32 EGR code.

A no cost diagnosis would be to remove the EGR and temporarily insert a solid plate (made out of the sides of an aluminum can) where the gasket is. This will completely eliminate the possibility of the EGR being open and causing a massive vac leak. If that is your problem-- fix the EGR.
 
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#7
1995 a trip in the way back machine-

The basic spark test bill mentioned - try at other plugs,

Ok this should be MPI and not a TBI, also you have a distributor.
So lets try KOEO,
is there 12v at coil?
is there 12v at injectors?
Ideally we want fuel pressure with a GAUGE - lets ignore as you try a simple test.

As someone tries to start vehicle spray some carb or brake clean into throttle body - did it hit, fire and try to start?
No it didn't and ended up killing battery charged it today I found codes which were 12 (battery as I put new terminals on a few days ago)and 35 twice (egr system failure)
 
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#8
the code 12 donot worry, the other code is it 32 or 35?


I would suspect its 32 and just be sure EGR elec conn is connected............
 
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#10
"I don't have any of those tools or tech" so a vacuum reading may be to much.

Basisc spark?
still not confirmed.
 

oddone1975

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#11
no spark tested with a screw driver in plug wire on manifold and nothing even tried an old spark plug talked with a few mechanics i know and they said crank sensor. attempted the crank sensor tonight and got one bolt out however got the other one to turn a little but now can't get the stupid allen wrench back in it to get it to turn more to point that it's finger loose it is the bolt on the right side if your looking at front of truck, any suggestions on how in the world to do that? i find the trans dipstick tube and egr tube seem to be right in the way is there a way to do it with out taking those off? i know the egr tube bolts are rusted and most likely gonna break so rather not mess with them
 

oddone1975

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#12
the code 12 donot worry, the other code is it 32 or 35?


I would suspect its 32 and just be sure EGR elec conn is connected............
it was code 35 twice (egr system malfunction)
but have since taken battery out to take it down to the garage and be charged as killed it cranking it
 
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#13
Crank sensor on that truck....as nick2 would say..."They suck large". I haven't done one in quite a while, but I think I used a "Allen Bit" and turned it with a small combination wrench. Maybe pushed on the wrench with a prybar.
 

nickb2

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#14
No it didn't and ended up killing battery charged it today I found codes which were 12 (battery as I put new terminals on a few days ago)and 35 twice (egr system failure
but have since taken battery out to take it down to the garage and be charged as killed it cranking it
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