1997 Honda Accord V6 with P0725 Code

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#1
I've been to 2 different shops. One says it's an ignition coil problem, while the other wants to replace the whole distributor ($$). The Tach is erratic, the car chugs, and I'd like to know what to do. I've had the plugs looked at and areas around them cleaned and a new fuel filter. Anything else I should consider?
Thanks.
 

billr

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#2
Anybody have schematics so I can take a stab at this? Nickb2, is this one of those Hondas with pick-ups in the dizzy, like the guy in New Zealand was fighting a while back?
 
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#3
Here you go ,Bill....hope this helps....Jim.....


Disconnect the wires from the ICM.
Turn the ignition switch ON . Check for voltage between the YEL wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
If there is no battery voltage, check:
Ignition coil
YEL wire between the ignition coil and the ICM
If there is battery voltage, go to step 4.
Turn the ignition switch ON . Check for voltage between the GRN wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
If there is no battery voltage, check:
Ignition coil
GRN wire between the ignition coil and the ICM
If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.
Check the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and the ICM.
If all tests are normal, replace the ICM.


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billr

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#4
It's not likely the whole distributor needs to be replaced. Inside it is a component, the ignition control module (ICM), that could be a problem; that part is only 1/4 to 1/3 the cost of the whole distributor. The ignition coil is another possible cause, but so are several other things; like wiring and connectors and the ignition switch. Is this an automatic transmission, are the problems with the tach and the "chugging" constant, or only once-in-awhile? Do the problems seem related to any particular engine speed, or car speed, uphill vs. downhill, hot vs. cold engine? Observation and some step-by-step testing are the keys to identifying the root cause, instead of just replacing parts; although those steps can be difficult for any shop if a problem is intermittent. Did both shops do a road-test, did they spend some time under the hood with instruments? Most likely the problem is with either the coil or ICM, but not both. My guess is the ICM, as it gets hotter and has more complex circuitry... but that's just a guess!
 

nickb2

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#5
Yes, these suckers needed to be replaced as a unit. Not any more. There was a controversy back then as to how to fix them. Toshiba AND hitachi made the high output coils for these cars. Problem was the toshiba dizzy's cost up to 400$ new. Now you can get them for about 20$http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/mmp/honda~accord~ignition_coil~parts.html There was a reason why these cars got stolen alot. :thx

Would be nice to know which high output transformer you have in that distributor. You will however need a timing light.

You want no more than 21.6k ohms when checking for secondary. To check secondary, follow this chart;

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nickb2

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#6
Damn, what an asshole I am. Missed the V6. Here is the chart for the v6. Forget what I said before, this only applies to the 4 bangers.http://youtu.be/6Vghg8c8Qfk

Can't find your code for a honda v6 1997 in engine application. Are you sure you got the right code? How did you go about getting this code? Code P0725 is for Clutch lock up.

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