2000 Ford Explorer 5.0L Eddie Bauer running rough

nickb2

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#16
Wait, memory just kicked in, my older mustang 5.0l engine mount bolts were M10X1.5. I know, I broke a few on my old gt. I was in 5.4l mode for a minute there. So those may be the same for your bro's 2000 5.0l.
 

nickb2

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#17

grcauto

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#20
Ahhh...helps to be awake when reading a post. Vise grips and or pipe wrench do need something to grip on.
Might not be able to get in there real good with a drill but if you can get a long bit you can maybe drill it out and use a nut and bolt. Will drill easier if you can heat it to anneal the bolt and soften it. They drill MUCH easier after softening the metal.
 

nickb2

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#21
Interesting, I always thought annealing meant you actually toughen the steel.

an·neal
əˈnēl/
verb
gerund or present participle: annealing
  1. heat (metal or glass) and allow it to cool slowly, in order to remove internal stresses and toughen it.
 

nickb2

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#22
But upon further reading, I found the above definition to be in error.

I found these other definitions that say contrary. The english language is alot easier to learn than french, but sometimes I fall upon a word that can go both ways.

Annealing, in metallurgy and materials science, is a heat treatment that alters the physical and sometimes chemical properties of a material to increase its ductility and reduce its hardness, making it more workable. It involves heating a material above its recrystallization temperature, maintaining a suitable temperature for a suitable amount of time, and then cooling.
 

nickb2

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#23
I may have gotten quenching and annealing mixed up. Cuz every time I heat a bolt, cool it down real quick (which I call quenching) I usually do that just to break the thread loose. But once you do that, no chance in hell of drilling it. So I leaned something today, well actually two things.

First, don't believe every first thing you read on internet. ( I actually knew that, just trying to attempt humor)

Second, always double check before trying to attempt to learn new terms you don`t quite master. Do your research first on many sites.


As the first definition I fell upon today said annealing was the process of toughening steel, where as all other definitions said annealing was to slowly heat and slowly cool thus softening the metal, which I am assuming is what he (GRC) meant. I understood his concept even though it did not explain the annealing proccess, but was confused by the word. Hence I questioned him and wanted to correct him, but then I questioned myself first before doing that. So I did my research, found the first definition to be of my initial understanding of the word, but when I went further, found all other definitions of the word to be exactly what GRCauto said. I would have felt like an idot having tried to correct GRC when in fact, his terminology was good and my understanding of it was erroneous.


In a trade such as ours, which is very technical, definitions are very important. That is why I love this site. Since 2008, my understanding of the written english word has vastly improved. It was always above average for the frenchman I am due to me having lived in Ontario for many years, but as I said, due to this site, it improves everyday. Such as the example I just had here with the word anneal. So upon reading the first definition, it makes no sense and the person that published that is wrong, and google actually has that as first up in its algorythm and it is false and conflicting. But since I have no way or no interest in trying to correct google, f it. ;)
 
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grcauto

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#24
Annealing is a metallurgical term that basically means to use heat to change the carbon atoms structural formation to change the metals properties. Using various heats and cooling (oil bath, water etc) will arrange the carbon atoms to make the steel harder/softer, more/less tensile strength, malleable with little change under pressure...think springs......metallurgy....fun stuff.
 
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#25
For bolts that have sheared off (not busted because they would not turn) I sometimes will slot them with a Dremel cut-off wheel. Then, a flat screwdriver is used. Sometimes the slot is at an angle. In the case of the "one thread down" situation, the block would also get slotted a little.

1538585522914.png
 

Mikerizer

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#26
Well, I got one bolt out with an extractor...after I broke an extractor off in the other bolt. The extractor is too hard to drill, and it's the one that's a thread deep into the block. I am NOT a welder, and I don't have a torch. I'm going to buy a dremel tomorrow, and see if I can get parallel to the boss and slot it. I may also try a cone shaped stone bit in the dremel...I saw a youtube video where a guy used one to grind out a hole, extractor and all.
 

grcauto

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#27
Those extractors can be a bear to get out. If you can get a hardened drift and smack the crap out of it you may be able to crack it and get it to fall out.
Good luck.
 

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#29
Bought a 7/16" 14 thread repair kit. Going to drill it out and put in a thread insert. Ordered a 29/64" hex shank bit which should be here Friday. I have to use an extension to get to the block, so it has to be a hex shank.

Air intake tube and plug wires should be here this week as well.