Sticking injectors will act like sticking valves. So overlooking such simple things may cause confusion in the diagnostic dept. When a known good electrical system is ruled out, you have to go back to basics. And that is often overlooked in these modern times with cars that have such a sophisticated self correcting algorithm.
Even the best self correcting ECU cannot correct years of varnish, carbon etc. That can only be done by your own hands.
So I am off, it's Canada day for what that is worth for us quebecors. At least I get a three day weekend. So beer it is and some home made taco's.
Try our simple solutions out, they may surprise you.
Of note, I do not endorse Mopar chamber cleaner, it's just that we don't have seafoam readily available in my parts. But I would assume it is the same. I just am used to my good old mix of mopar and gas.
Nick - you are expected to celebrate its july 1 - beer, fish and chips etc.
For those uninformed Yankees- something like
Canada, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia united and were accepted as a single colony under the crown.... And they celebrate the inclusion into the British Empire.
Well, six beers and 5 taco`s later, I found this one a hoot.
I like our subtle differences. Once the states get over themselves, they are not so bad as neighbors. It isn`t easy thinking you are the naval of the universe. Trump is making that very fact pretty clear. Meanwhile, us cannucks will do as we always do, smile, step back and let big brother fall flat.
Sorry to bring this back. An oldie and not a goody. The Jeep has been passed onto another dealer where it sets off to the side. Still runs great. When it doesn't the miss comes back and it's a dog. Supposedly the rail was replaced. The current owner/dealer thinks it's a wiring issue. Is there a real time application I can run on a PC with a plug for info from the OBD socket? I'm wondering if something might show that checking codes doesn't.
It's not my Jeep. I'm not about to fix a car belonging to a dealer. Especially when I might buy it. It's priced low now because the shops in the region haven't been able to fix it. It's got a new rail, new plugs, new coil packs, etc. At this point, I don't think there's much left to replace if I'm being told the truth. The current owner may have a clue. It runs well going down the road until he has to stop and then it starts missing. The old engine analyzers used to show the spark for each cylinder. Does that exist in a portable form now?
So, what is the asking price now? If the body and interior are OK, that pig-in-a-poke is worth about $500. I assume you would get it "as-is" with no warranty at all. Things like the trans could also be questionable, as well as the engine.
$1,100 takes it. It hasn't had a lot of miles put on it since I first looked at it. Body and interior are nice. It doesn't look almost 20 years old. Running, I think it's worth $2000+. To date probably five or six shops have had a go at it. Some of the garages have competent white-haired mechanics that have a lot of BTDT. I'm looking for an edge that's beyond normal diagnostics to ID an unusual intermittent problem.
Not "a lot of miles", like in near-zero as if it has been sitting on the dealer's lot all this time? I sure hope this hasn't been sold a few times and then returned as being an un-fixable lemon. Since you can't do any diagnostics on it, it is a big gamble, and I think a long-shot at that since several shops have already failed. I know of no crystal ball or magic bullet that is going to ensure this beast is a good deal, a "diamond in the rough". Have you made a suitably low offer to the dealer?
It's been setting for close to two years. The dealer I originally talked to said he had to take it back from a buyer. The current owner/dealer probably thinks he can spend some time and find something. He mentioned a problem involving a wiring harness. When he checked that, someone had already been into it. The current owner has had it maybe four months.