2001 Ford Mustang V6 cylinder #1 misfire, Please help!!!

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#1
My 2001 V6 (3. 8L, around 68000 miles) had a SES light few months ago, and had no other symptoms. The code was pulled at Autozone and was P0153, which called for an O2 sensor1 in Bank2. I bought the thing ($54+) and I didn't know which was Bank2 since it had 4 (actually I did, but just didn't really have the time). So I just left it there and the light went away shortly.
Then couple of weeks ago when we had a severe cold day, and as I was driving, the car started jerking under load (when I gave gas) and it kept doing it under load. It wasn't apparent once it picked up the speed. The SES light also came on. This time the code was P301, which was Cylinder #1 misfire. I checked the spark plug, it looked okay, so where should I start? I can start changing the plug, wire, and eventually the coil pack, but I'd want to save as much money as I can. Has anyone experienced this problem? Could anyone please help?

Also, I've heard about switching ignition wires on cylinders. . . Could some one please give me more info on this?

How can I switch the injecter line? where is it located?

The thing is, the original code (P0153) called for Sensor#1 in Bank#2, which corresponds to Cylinders 4,5,&6. Now the misfire is on Cylinder 1, (code P0301) which pertains to Bank#1, so, I am kind of confused as to whether to change O2 sensor or not. . . What if I just went ahead and change all 4 O2 sensors? (can't afford to b/c I am a student). I already checked the Plugs, and they seem just normal (no difference between the looks on them). . . Any thoughts?
thanks. . .

thanks in advance. (sorry for the lengthy description. . . I also fix electronic devices for my friends and family & I myself like to get as much info about any problems, so I thought it'd help)
 

nickb2

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#2
A spark plug can be checked with a multimeter in ohm's. As for specific resistance, I can't specify cuz don't know which plug you have. But if you pull a couple and compare resistance, it should give you an idea if that particular cyl is out of spec. As for spark wires, it is 10k ohms per foot as a general rule. Could be a clogged injector on that cyl also. But check spark first. Also check for corosion in coil pack terminals, and for cracks on it. When engine is running, spray windex on all wires and coil, watch for arcing. ....x
 

oldtimer53

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#3
Having a code does not mean to replace parts. Only to begin testing at a certain point.
Bank 1 is the bank that contains cyinder #1. If you engine has high mileage, I would start with spark plug replacement with Motorcraft plugs and wires. If a coil pack goes bad it will usually involve another cylinder, as each coil fires 2 cylinders. This was done as a "waste" spark to also fire the plug while the exhaust valve is open, and help clean up emissions. I say only Motorcraft, because I can't count all the aftermarket plugs that I have removed, that caused a miss. Use AC in GM , and Champions in Chryslers. Whatever is OEM in anything else.
 

jasonn20

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#4
Curious do you have a k&n air filter? The mass air flow sensor will cause a wide range of problems.
If you have a K&N filter I would replace it as the oil will cause your MAF to malfunction. You can clean the sensor with brake cleaner.

As stated OEM plugs are important.

check for any vacuum leaks
check to see if there is a vacuum hose connected to your number one intake runner going to the dpfe valve or egr as I remember these to be common problems on other applications.
 
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#5
Well I do have the Fram AirHog air filter in it. But I've had it for sometime though. . . Thanks for the info on the plug & wire resistances. I will defenitely check them out. I've also heard spark plugs by Autozone (called Autolite) are also very good for these cars?
thanks
 
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#6
btw, AirHog is Fram's competition against K&N filters. I haven't used any oil in it, eventhough that's how you clean it. I just replace it with another one when needed.
 

rjh1

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#7
Does it idle a little on the rough side ... and is there a slight ticking sound if you work the throttle with the hood open ?? could be a broken intake valve spring had this happen to my neighbors 03 Chrysler town and country van with a 3.8 he had a cyl 3 miss fire code when i checked it...plug looked like it was firing also and i swapped it with a diff cyl and wire .... finally pulled valve cover and saw the broken intake spring $2.50 at the dealer and a small amount of time and things are all good now just my .02 worth
 
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#8
well it idles okay, no problem. If I give gas while in neutral, it doesn't act all that badly. But if I raise the RPM very high in neutral and then release the gas pedal quickly, some times I hear this pop from the exhaust. But it only happens if I raise it very high and release quickly, which I don't think might be that much of a problem. . .

anyway, so first I replaced all 6 plugs with Motor Craft ones ($4. 69 from O'riley) with spacing (0. 054) between them. I also added some fuel injector cleaner stuff (Lucas brand from Autozone - they sware that brand is the best, so I poured one bottle with a full tank of gas - Shell V-power (93 Octane)).
Then I test drove it, and it improved a lot, not much jerking but still had a little bit at the beginning of the acceleration in each gear.

So, I was like okay, now I should replace the wires as well. So I bought Motorcraft ($42. 99 at O'Riley) plug wires and replaced them because some wires were touching other hoses and there are slow melts on them because of that. (But replacing them was not much fun, b/c the plastic clips and the slit wire covers are not easy to transfer to the new ones)

Anyway, I thought it should be perfect now that I have replaced the wires also. So I test drove, and found it still does that, but it has improved even better. It only jerks when at the beginning of the acceleration in each gear (especially in 3rd and if I switch to 4th gear and I didn't have enough speed). Once the speed is picked up, you don't notice anything. . Some times it doesn't even jerk (that is, no misfiring) and it does it only intermittently!

What do y'all think I should do next? Should I replace the coil pack? Or replace the O2 sensor? Should I replace all four O2 sensors? Would it be a good idea to replace them as part of maintanence for better performance? How long do they typically last and what brand would you suggest? The one I bought originally from Autozone was Bosch and I still haven't installed it as it says in my original post. . . The coil pack runs around $80 at O'Riley (not Motor Craft) and the O2 sensor at Autozone is around $49. 99.

Please help because I am a college student and my classes have started already. . .
 

autodr

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#9
MustangMan said:
I've also heard spark plugs by Autozone (called Autolite) are also very good for these cars?
The only thing AutoZone and Autolite share is the word "auto" in the name. Autolite is an Allied Signal product... not and AutoZone product :)

And yes... Autolite would be my second choice for plugs... Motorcraft being number one.
 

jasonn20

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#10
get codes pulled again make sure o2 has not set again

If you unplug the MAF sensor is your engine miss still there? The computer will fall back on default settings it may not start up immediatly If it seems to help clean the MAF with brake cleaner. this will trip a code you have to have AZ clear the code afterwards so before doing this pul the codes first so there is no confusion
 
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#11
thanks Jason. I went to Autozone again today because I wanted to see if there are any new codes that was set. They didn't find any. I actually had unplugged the battery when changing the plug and wires. I will try unplugging the MAF and see if the miss is still there. And like I said previously, I am using a Airhog air filter in the car, which I think I should pull out and put a regular one back in. . . what do you think?
Also, the miss is only when I am driving, I believe. Because I can't really tell if there is a miss or not while it's idling or if I raise the rpm in neutral. I wonder if I have damaged the transmission when I drove when the miss was more frequent? Is there any way to test the coil pack?
thanks


jasonn20 said:
get codes pulled again make sure o2 has not set again

If you unplug the MAF sensor is your engine miss still there? The computer will fall back on default settings it may not start up immediatly If it seems to help clean the MAF with brake cleaner. this will trip a code you have to have AZ clear the code afterwards so before doing this pul the codes first so there is no confusion
 

jasonn20

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#12
I would put an oem equivelant filter in it. It is a quick free test disconnecting the MAF and driving the car.
I believe you will need an oscilloscope to test the coil.
Someone might have a differnet procedure for testing though.
 
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#13
Okay so new developments:
I pulled out one connection at a time from the coil pack while the engine was running to see the sparks as I was advised in this forum. . . There is spark flying between the wires of cylinders 2-6, but not from #1!!! But when I pull it out (cylinder 1 connection) the engine rpm drops a little bit, though. . . and when I plug it back in, the rpm gets back to normal. . . So, does this mean the cylinder 1 is firing, but not very strong? But there are no sparks flying between them when I have it unplugged. .

So, is it a bad coil pack? I thought I was told somewhere in this forum that if the coil pack is bad it would miss two cylinders. . . Could someone please help? It's kind of hard to get response on this forum quickly. . .
 

jasonn20

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#14
Two
adjacent coil towers share a common coil and are called a
matched pair. For six-tower coil pack (six cylinder) applications
the matched pairs are 1 and 5, 2 and 6, and 3 and 4
.

When the coil is fired by the PCM, spark is delivered through
the matched pair towers to their respective spark plugs. The
spark plugs are fired simultaneously and are paired so that as
one fires on the compression stroke, the other spark plug fires
on the exhaust stroke. The next time the coil is fired the
situation is reversed. The next pair of spark plugs fire
according to the engine firing order.