Please fill out the following to ask a question. MAKE:GMC MODEL:JIMMY YEAR:2001 MILES:137,000 ENGINE:4.3 V6 DESCRIBE ISSUE....Totally at random, my driver's side power window will stop when trying to put it UP. Goes down fine. Sometimes it will stop 4 or 5 times until it gets the entire way up. Between each attempt to raise it, I'll have to wait between 15 and 45 seconds. This might happen twice in a week, once in a month, etc. No specific pattern that I can see. Would there be some kind of issue with the circuit that stops it when fully up? Could it be a weird fault in the motor itself?
quick knee jerk thought - the wait time 15-45 seconds suggests circuit breaker is tripping and resetting. start by inspecting then WD40 the channel, before we remove door panel. Does it fail only on raising from all the way down? stop going thru drive thrus - the only reason to open a window...
Usually, the clearance between the door frame and the window "regulator" arms is quite tight. One of those arms may be snagging a rivet/screw head and over-loading the window motor to cause the CB to trip. Yeah, check as much as you can from the outside first. Taking off a door panel often involves breaking little clips/barbs that hold it in place.
My favorite fix for a sticky window that starts kicking a weak circuit breaker. I buy it at Walmart. Spray it several times on the rubber channel and move the window up and down to work it to the lower area down in the door.
Kev2. Unfortunately I need the window down to get my newspaper and mail. ( I'm very rural.) I always use the auto down mode, and have never manually put it down halfway then tried to raise it. It happens so infrequent I may do that many, many times before it will trip ( if ever). Mobile Dan, thanks for the tip on the silicone. I'll get some next trip to Wally World. I'll update as I try these things. Hope you all are enjoying the New Year so far.
One thing you said brings me to believe you have an intermittent power window master switch. Wiggle test the harness from door jam to door while checking the power window up wire. If you are willing to do this, I will provide with emplacement, color and pin # of cavity.
While lubricating may help in reducing amp draw on the circuit breaker, it will not account for a split wire which are so very frequent in these cars. The man has said so himself, this is a work vehicle and the driver door gets all the abuse, so focus on the most used parts of the door, first the switch, which is always commanded with the auto, so the up function gets the brunt of the circuit, and that why I say check the master switch. Never mind the coffee and doughnuts and what not that get thrown on a work truck door, let alone a soccer mom van.
I've soaked the window channels with silicone, but since the problem is so intermittent, so far it hasn't stuck. Still need time to see if that has fixed it or not. If it happens to be the breaker, where is that located, or does that require a new motor?
breakers are in the fuse/relay box - BUT some GM motors have a CB internal right at the harness plug in - nothing visible, We hoped the lubricant would solve the issue before we had to remove door panel, and get into it, test lamps diagrams not to mention regulator etc . http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=70400 PS if you are removing panel get some new panel clips before removal -NAPA
Yes, I confirm what Kev2 says, there is a 30amp CB for all window motors, and each window motor has also one integrated which is not replaceable. I forgot to include a wiring, I went with a two door, but even if it is a 4 door, the wiring is almost the same.
So as to repeat myself, have you checked the door jam harness for any cracked wires? VERY common on the GM's. Actually, very common on most cars on driver door. But soccer mom vans often see that on all door jams as all doors get the same amount of abuse with the kids and grocery shopping and stuff..
On a funny note, I was fixing a f250 2014 police truck with only 14000 or so km's on it up north just before my 30 day vacation. In the rear driver door jam, 5 split or almost split wires causing the fuse to blow for the door locks. Mind you, with temps as low as -48c, wires do tend to get brittle. The officer explained that he does use that door often to load drunken fools to bring to the drink tank up there, and you know an emergency police car/truck absolutely needs door lock to function. If not, said fool can just jump out of the truck if someone forgot to activate the cancellation lever and also, it is required by law for a police car to always have functioning door locks with a functioning child cancellation levers.
So, imagine, that truck was useless as he could not unlock the doors with his key fob, or his driver door switch. So with the child cancellation feature on, now no way to load a fool in the back of the truck. We had a good laugh at that one. An almost brand new truck, and he can't use it if he is on call for an emergency. Took me an hour to find and fix the problem, what was longer, waiting on the police work authorization number to start the work bill as I had no WO # to start work. You can't start work on an emergency vehicle by law without a work order #.
I will check the harness at the door next. I would doubt the breaker under the hood is the culprit, as it's only the one window with the problem. More to follow:::::
