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2001 jimmy, power window issue

  1. Please fill out the following to ask a question.

    MAKE:GMC
    MODEL:JIMMY
    YEAR:2001
    MILES:137,000
    ENGINE:4.3 V6
    DESCRIBE ISSUE....Totally at random, my driver's side power window will stop when trying to put it UP. Goes down fine. Sometimes it will stop 4 or 5 times until it gets the entire way up. Between each attempt to raise it, I'll have to wait between 15 and 45 seconds. This might happen twice in a week, once in a month, etc. No specific pattern that I can see. Would there be some kind of issue with the circuit that stops it when fully up? Could it be a weird fault in the motor itself?
     
  2. quick knee jerk thought -
    the wait time 15-45 seconds suggests circuit breaker is tripping and resetting.
    start by inspecting then WD40 the channel, before we remove door panel. Does it fail only on raising from all the way down?

    stop going thru drive thrus ;) - the only reason to open a window...
     
  3. Usually, the clearance between the door frame and the window "regulator" arms is quite tight. One of those arms may be snagging a rivet/screw head and over-loading the window motor to cause the CB to trip. Yeah, check as much as you can from the outside first. Taking off a door panel often involves breaking little clips/barbs that hold it in place.
     
  4. My favorite fix for a sticky window that starts kicking a weak circuit breaker. I buy it at Walmart. [​IMG] Spray it several times on the rubber channel and move the window up and down to work it to the lower area down in the door.
     
  5. Kev2. Unfortunately I need the window down to get my newspaper and mail. ( I'm very rural.) I always use the auto down mode, and have never manually put it down halfway then tried to raise it. It happens so infrequent I may do that many, many times before it will trip ( if ever).
    Mobile Dan, thanks for the tip on the silicone. I'll get some next trip to Wally World.

    I'll update as I try these things.

    Hope you all are enjoying the New Year so far.
     
  6. One thing you said brings me to believe you have an intermittent power window master switch.

    Wiggle test the harness from door jam to door while checking the power window up wire. If you are willing to do this, I will provide with emplacement, color and pin # of cavity.
     
  7. While lubricating may help in reducing amp draw on the circuit breaker, it will not account for a split wire which are so very frequent in these cars. The man has said so himself, this is a work vehicle and the driver door gets all the abuse, so focus on the most used parts of the door, first the switch, which is always commanded with the auto, so the up function gets the brunt of the circuit, and that why I say check the master switch. Never mind the coffee and doughnuts and what not that get thrown on a work truck door, let alone a soccer mom van.
     
  8. The window regulator may be broken.
     
  9. I've soaked the window channels with silicone, but since the problem is so intermittent, so far it hasn't stuck. Still need time to see if that has fixed it or not. If it happens to be the breaker, where is that located, or does that require a new motor?
     
  10. breakers are in the fuse/relay box - BUT some GM motors have a CB internal right at the harness plug in - nothing visible, We hoped the lubricant would solve the issue
    before we had to remove door panel, and get into it, test lamps diagrams not to mention regulator etc .

    http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=70400

    PS if you are removing panel get some new panel clips before removal -NAPA
     
  11. Yes, I confirm what Kev2 says, there is a 30amp CB for all window motors, and each window motor has also one integrated which is not replaceable.

    I forgot to include a wiring, I went with a two door, but even if it is a 4 door, the wiring is almost the same. Screenshot (57).png
     
  12. So as to repeat myself, have you checked the door jam harness for any cracked wires? VERY common on the GM's. Actually, very common on most cars on driver door.

    But soccer mom vans often see that on all door jams as all doors get the same amount of abuse with the kids and grocery shopping and stuff..
     
  13. On a funny note, I was fixing a f250 2014 police truck with only 14000 or so km's on it up north just before my 30 day vacation. In the rear driver door jam, 5 split or almost split wires causing the fuse to blow for the door locks.

    Mind you, with temps as low as -48c, wires do tend to get brittle. The officer explained that he does use that door often to load drunken fools to bring to the drink tank up there, and you know an emergency police car/truck absolutely needs door lock to function. If not, said fool can just jump out of the truck if someone forgot to activate the cancellation lever and also, it is required by law for a police car to always have functioning door locks with a functioning child cancellation levers.
     
  14. So, imagine, that truck was useless as he could not unlock the doors with his key fob, or his driver door switch. So with the child cancellation feature on, now no way to load a fool in the back of the truck.

    We had a good laugh at that one. An almost brand new truck, and he can't use it if he is on call for an emergency.

    Took me an hour to find and fix the problem, what was longer, waiting on the police work authorization number to start the work bill as I had no WO # to start work.

    You can't start work on an emergency vehicle by law without a work order #.
     
  15. I will check the harness at the door next. I would doubt the breaker under the hood is the culprit, as it's only the one window with the problem. More to follow:::::
     
  16. After 28 years, 88 Supra had this problem, just pulled the drivers and passengers power window switches and cleaned them, used silver contacts, slight amount of oxidation on them. 93 S-10 comes to mind, used copper switches, pulled all four and polished those to a mirror finish. Both shared erratic problems. Other vehicles had cracked wires between the door and the body, these were permanent problems.

    Drivers switch is the worse, has all those interlocking contacts, clean work bench, and watch out for springs flying out all over the place, all seem to snap together and can be snapped apart.
     
  17. My god, @ the other Nick, I thought you were dead.

    Glad to see your still active.

    :D
     
  18. since you lubricated the channel has there been any issues?
    You are keeping it lubed?

    Seeing the reason for window up- down - High use - might want to have all clips, rollers, wearable parts before opening panel. Might take time to get it all together.
     
  19. Well almost, required another life saving surgery, First car with power windows was my 65 Buick, the one I put 330k miles on, just wore the motors out, back then they had replaceable brushes, also used a slip clutch, that had to be cleaned or wouldn't lift the window. but wouldn't kick the circuit breaker. Many of the power windows today are throwaway. Thank you for the kind thoughts.
     
  20. I hit it with another dose of silicone spray today. It stuck once last week. In the fuse box under the hood, there's a breaker called "glass power". I assume that's the power window breaker. How do those breakers come out? I tugged a bit on it but it wouldn't budge. There are five there with the same part number, so I figured I'd swap two and see if that helps.
     
  21. Try the other 4 and if one comes out you will know how it is installed.
     
  22. Strange question I had with my 17 year old 92 DeVille with 130K miles on it, why am I not have problems with the power windows? Had to remove the switches to find out, was using tungsten contacts, not silver, not bare copper. Switch life is based on the number of contact closures, set of tungsten points would last 10 K miles with a 4 amp inductive load, the worse kind, care to calculate the number of contact closures? Actually its when they open is when you get that high inductive kick back.

    While they do have a greater contact resistance, can be made a bit larger to compensate for this, but can stand that arc without getting pits, even better than using gold.

    Just a hint as to why we are having problems, and they can be very erratic in operation, really don't find erratic problems in mechanical. one broke, they are broke. Suggest you check your switches contacts.

    Practically all this new stuff is using point contact relays for switching stuff, like everything, starting the engine, head lamps, etc. Could have chosen a worse switch for this job. An old ignition switch or a headlamp switch used a self cleaning wiping contact. When that relay contact closes, if the contacts are not perfectly clean, do not get a sharp voltage that is required to reset all those microcontrollers, if if they don't start from reset, just about everything goes crazy, firmware is tripping over its own feet. New problems that were never problems before. Only takes one tiny bit of debris from preventing a good contact with these things, and no way to wipe it off.

    When we really needed a very reliable contact, could use a mercury wetted contact relay, but were banned by the EPA, but at the same time, approved CFL's by the trillions with mercury in them. Another thing that was banned was electroplating, had to shift this to Mexico, then China to get this done, or just use bare copper.
     
  23. Been too darn cold to get out to do any more troubleshooting. 15deg with a foot of snow yesterday. The window hasn't stuck anymore as of yet. I'll keep updating.