2004 rear wiper wont shut off

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#31
You are most welcome. Stick around. If you end up working this project let us know what happened. I've been with BAT before it was BAT and Yes I'm a Dinosaur. The guys here are the best you'll find.
Lol i will. Right now im about to do my rear hub assembly. Have annoying noise thats driven me nuts. Took it to my mechanic when i need alittle help and he told me it was wheel bearing. So now im waiting for my part to get here tonight and then working on it tomorrow.
 
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#32
Seems like shops like to take advantage of women, should know, have four daughters, last one was told her front hub bearings were bad and she will be killed driving this way, she called me, I can't believe this, bring it home. Only problem was stones stuck between the rotor shield and the rotor, shop quoted her $630.00. Not going to write a book on the other three.

Lady friend had a Caddy just like mine, blower motor was out, said the electronic control fried the BCM, $1,500.00, impossible, BCM is isolated by a 22K ohm resistor, no way to fry the BCM.

Wife to be said she had a good mechanic, was with her with a minor PS steering belt, only problem, it never was torqued properly, her trusted mechanic wanted 800 bucks to replace all three belts, she doesn't have this problem anymore. He, was constantly replacing her rotors and pads with tons of brake drag.

But kind of suspect with 220K miles on this thing, your hub bearing could be bad. Sure loved Timken tapered bearings, could be cleaned with new seals for a buck. These things are a PITA to replace, rusted in solid, and strictly throwaway.
 
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#33
Seems like shops like to take advantage of women, should know, have four daughters, last one was told her front hub bearings were bad and she will be killed driving this way, she called me, I can't believe this, bring it home. Only problem was stones stuck between the rotor shield and the rotor, shop quoted her $630.00. Not going to write a book on the other three.

Lady friend had a Caddy just like mine, blower motor was out, said the electronic control fried the BCM, $1,500.00, impossible, BCM is isolated by a 22K ohm resistor, no way to fry the BCM.

Wife to be said she had a good mechanic, was with her with a minor PS steering belt, only problem, it never was torqued properly, her trusted mechanic wanted 800 bucks to replace all three belts, she doesn't have this problem anymore. He, was constantly replacing her rotors and pads with tons of brake drag.

But kind of suspect with 220K miles on this thing, your hub bearing could be bad. Sure loved Timken tapered bearings, could be cleaned with new seals for a buck. These things are a PITA to replace, rusted in solid, and strictly throwaway.
I agree. Thats why i know what to do. My dad and older brother are mechanics and my x hubby. Something is telling me its my rear so while im doing the hub im gonna check my fluid. Just hope its not the rear. Lol. Its funny when men think i dont know what im talking about.
 
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#34
Use to be a solid rear axle back there, practically indestructible, but half axles provide independent rear suspension for a much smoother ride. Not only the hub bearings, but that half axle can also be your problem. 99% of cores just have to be cleaned and relubricated with new boots.

A friend with an SUV had these, but moved away, paid a thousand bucks to have one replaced, wow, did you get taken, could have purchased a good rebuilt for 44 bucks. And not that difficult to replace. Wish I could say the same about hub bearings.

What hub bearings, half axles, and all those sheaves on a single drive belt system have in common, have what I call limited lubricated bearings. After time, that grease gets as hard as a rock.
 
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#35
Use to be a solid rear axle back there, practically indestructible, but half axles provide independent rear suspension for a much smoother ride. Not only the hub bearings, but that half axle can also be your problem. 99% of cores just have to be cleaned and relubricated with new boots.

A friend with an SUV had these, but moved away, paid a thousand bucks to have one replaced, wow, did you get taken, could have purchased a good rebuilt for 44 bucks. And not that difficult to replace. Wish I could say the same about hub bearings.

What hub bearings, half axles, and all those sheaves on a single drive belt system have in common, have what I call limited lubricated bearings. After time, that grease gets as hard as a rock.

Yeah this noise is getting to be pain. Im getting so many explanations on what it could be and yet so far none of them have worked. So im gonna rotate tires and see if noise is still there.
 
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#36
I just block the vehicle up on my Douglas Fir blocks, don't trust those jack stands, with an assistant running the vehicle, get under there and look, when you see a CV joint jumping up and down, that is the problem. Hub bearings are done by feel, hand rotating the wheel, also side play.
 
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#37
Also a couple of U-joins in the drive shaft, another limited lubricated bearing, put well over 220K miles on several vehicles when they had zerk fittings.
 

jd

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#38
Is this Rendezvous FWD or AWD? Wanting to track your project...
 
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#39
4WD's are sure popular up here with ice and snow, but any vehicle is worthless on ice, has several ice rains last season. All vehicles have 4 wheel brakes, often would see an SUV or pickup slid through a red light or a stop sign. Pickups are worse because they are running empty, no weight on the rear end, breaks loose and spins out.

Never had a problem selecting a vehicle with a 50-50 front to rear weight ratio, RWD, limited slip, and studded snow tires. but this ended on 1975 when studs were made illegal. Ha, ex wanted a 67 Mustang, wanted to keep her happy, with that 289 in front, a winter disaster. only way to drive it was to put 400 pounds of sand bags in the trunk, no room for anything else, but sure lacked limited slip, now have traction control pulsing the slipping front wheel. Bad joke. this new crap only pulses at one pulse per second. But is the law.

SUV introduced to me Torx bolts, would hammer in the correct sized bit but as soon as I put pressure on the wrench would round out. If I didn't have made in the USA drill bits would have been dead meat. All that 4WD crap underneath exposed to road salt used Torx. Replaced all of it with 8 hex to make it easier for the next guy.

Transfer case used AT fluid in AWD, that had to be drained every 30K miles, was burnt. Shocks and ball joints was another problem, only good also for about 30K miles.

When these first came out, experts said only good for Park Ave, sure don't want to take these thing into the wild, also for people that wanted power on the road, a compact car is no match for these. Our Cruze was rearended by one, totaled.

Government keeps on saying we only have to cut our fuel consumption by 10% to get rid of OPEC or not make ethanol, these things have less than half the fuel economy than a compact, and the vast majority of these things around here only have a single driver.