2005 Lexus ES330 rear brake pad replacement

infj23

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#1
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MAKE: Lexus
MODEL: ES330
YEAR: 2005
MILES: 265,000
ENGINE
:V-6
DESCRIBE ISSUE....
I have changed lots of brake pads in my time. My new-to-me Lexus ES330 has developed the tell-tale chirp that suggests I need new pads in the back. Anything weird/odd/strange about these, or is this a pretty typical disc pad replacement procedure?
Thanks in advance to all!
Doc
 

infj23

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#2
Update!
I removed the right rear wheel, which is where the chirp was coming from. I was surprised to see a lot of pad remaining. I could not see any reason for any noise, so decided to remove the pads, clean and lube everything, and put it all back.
When I removed the inside pad, the backing plate on it was out of place. See the attached pic. The old pad on the right and new on the left. Compare the backing plate and tabs. All I can imagine is that those tabs sticking out on the old plate were rubbing something which made the noise. So, I decided to go ahead and replace all the rear pads.
I installed the new shims and the new pads. When I lowered the caliper, it would not come down over the pads (the caliper piston is pushed all the way in). The outside pad was blocking the caliper, about by the thickness of the backing plate installed on the pad. The eyeball perspective suggested that the inside pad would not have been in the way if the outside pad had cleared. Without pushing hard, the backing plate dislodge and was not longer stuck to the pad.
So now I was stuck with either 1) putting the old pads back on, including bending the tabs of the plates to hold the plate on the inside shoe, or 2) using new pads and installing the outside one without a backing plate.
I chose to reinstall the old pads, moving the out-of-place backing plate back where it belonged and tapping down the tab to hold it in place. It is not in place well--the caliper will be what really holds it there--which I presume is the design.
Any problem with what I've done here? The short version is that I removed the pads and shims, cleaned and lubed everything and reinstalled everything with the backing plate tapped back into place on the inside pad.
Everything is back together but I have not test driven it yet. Wanted to hear from the pros whether I have really screwed this up or am OK.
Teachers, what grade do I get?
Thanks,
Doc
 

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nickb2

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#3
Hi doc, you get an A+ for effort.

As long as you have snug pedal effort and no hydraulic leaks, and you seem to say that pads are new, or the old ones were newish, in which case you have now a spare set.

I am just wondering what kind of tool you used to back in those calipers?

So here is me being an ass. WHAT IS PARKING BRAKE? I am assuming the parking brake does not work well. On the right pad of picture, you will notice the caliper piston has a notch, said notch needs to be at 12 o clock.

A rotational tool is needed.
 

nickb2

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#4
https://www.google.ca/search?q=rear+caliper+brake+tool&tbm=isch&imgil=DgnYn_JYRldjmM%3A%3BFk_ZSHs_X5zqpM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.lincolnvscadillac.com%252Fforum%252Fshowthread.php%253F95324-Rear-brakes&source=iu&pf=m&fir=DgnYn_JYRldjmM%3A%2CFk_ZSHs_X5zqpM%2C_&usg=__Mzl_cxA3MLFdzm5hrdXHKgA5mew=&biw=808&bih=635&ved=0CEMQyjc&ei=ZWtgVa-wIISFyQTjtICoBw#imgrc=WNfGrsEZg9LdsM%3A;DobcSCKucuqDiM;http%3A%2F%2Fwww.shiftice.com%2Fimages%2Fbrake_work%2FIMG_5189-1.JPG;http%3A%2F%2Fwww.shiftice.com%2Fbrake_install.html;700;525

One of these kits can be used and rented from your local autozone. If one of these tools does not back in those caliper pistons, you may need to think about buying new calipers. Not unheard of with these types of systems.

The caliper will apply some pressure, but not the preferred 70% front to 30% back ratio.
By having fixed many of these types, rusted out for sure and needs overhauling. That is my $.02. You still bet A+ for effort. But look into buying a pair of calipers. You will most likely have a 100 000km of good use. For now, you are probably over using your front brakes because rear is not compensating.

Hoping this made sense.
 
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infj23

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#5
Hello nickb2,
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have a new, spare set of pads now. The old pads are back on and working great. I have driven 300 miles since the change and all is well.
I tested the parking brake (set the parking brake and shifted into Drive--car did not move).
Through the spokes of the wheel, I can barely see the top of the inside pad and the metal plate (which I previously called a backing plate but is probably an anti-rattle plate) has not moved since I repositioned it. I'll keep an eye on it.
If I get some spare time soon, I'll take it all back apart, get the right tool as you suggested, and rotate that piston so the notch is at 12 o'clock.
Thanks so much!
Doc
 
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#6
If your caliper looks like this one and does NOT have a parking brake cable attached to it, there is no need to rotate the piston.
 

infj23

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#7
Next time I get a chance to pull the wheel, I'll have a look and reply back with whether it looks like this. I think it does, but I'll check to be sure. Thanks!
 

nickb2

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#8
Hey Dan, long time no speak. I thank you for correction, BTW just learned highway to hell, was a bitch to learn with my hands.
Mobile Dan is pointing to re-manufactured calipers. Good choice. Dan Is an expert.
 

nickb2

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#9
Normally what happens is that the guide pin that is not accessible seizes. This will cause many complaints from customers. Need to replace both sets because lexsus and masda had the same design.
 

infj23

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#10
Hello Dan and nickb2,
Took a while, but I recently had an excuse to pull a rear wheel (nail in tire), so snapped some pictures of the caliper, which are attached. Looks like it is the version that does not require rotating the piston. Concur?
As always, thanks a zillion!
Doc
 

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billr

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#11
Am I seeing a small rusty drum attached to the disk in the third picture? If so, those are simple no-fuss calipers.