Discussion in 'Domestics' started by no when too, Feb 13, 2017.
Haha, plz don't start a poll. I almost choked on my orange juice when reading that this morning.
@OP, thz for the fixed report, happy the caddy drives well again.
You will see, those polymer coated rotors will do you good for awhile, as long as the calipers don't stick. Be especially aware that this is a plague for the rears. Something is wrong with that design, as I said before for a high end car like this.
Sometimes, I can return those calipers back to service, but that is a big SOMETIMES. So that will be something to look out for in the future.
In the mean time, have fun with the ride, I sure like how they drive. These brake system are like sex, lubrication is key.
One other thing before I leave this thread as it is fixed, this is an option for the calipers. Brembo makes a great kit for the DTS.
So if ever you want to keep the car long term, and drive the wheels off it, this may be a viable option for you.
Expensive, and I have only once for a client car. He loved the kit. He paid a fortune for it, but he was very happy when it balanced out his braking.
Anyway, just saying. Google it if ever you want to dream a bit.
As usual, stay safe.
Daughter purchased a new 2015 Kia Soul living in downtown Milwaukee with only on street parking and salt trucks, very quickly had brake drag, but came home to see her daddy. Has rear disc calipers, sure your Caddy is similar, they don't tell you that you have to work the parking brake to adjust these. They are using metal clips for the torque plates that traps road salt, expands and jams the pads. On three of her caliper guide pins, had to use a puller to get them out, where is the grease, cleaned those and packed them full. Not the only car like this, 2012 Cruze was exactly the same way. Was happy the Kia is using an old fashion nut for the parking brake, was set way too tight, Cruze used a self adjusting parking brake where that dog would stick and no longer adjust, had to replace the whole darn thing.
Hers was set so tight, the levers could not return to the home position. Using a large C-clamp to jam in the pistons? I don't do this, just release the bleeder, if I can't push in the pistons with my thumbs, more problems. With that piston extended, more road salt problems, has to be cleaned. I take my tube of silicone grease and put a ring around that piston then press in the boot, does offer more protection. Also anti-seize under those pad clips after a good cleaning, and on the outside as well, the tips of the brake pads will bind, and why can they plated these things.
Typically last a couple of years, that black brake grease is worthless, only good for a couple of months. Ha, see some guys use a hammer to install pads, if you can't do this easily, its too tight.
Talking about my motorhome drums and rotors needed just a bit of cleaning up, took two men to carry these things out, tell them exactly how much I want removed, only charged me five bucks each. But when I brought in rotors that could fit in my back pocket, was 20 bucks each, cheaper to buy new ones.
Latest problem since they made ABS law really putting in a POS on these things, old good ones pulsed at ten per second, this new crap is more like one pulse per second. Then you can't no longer fire up the ABS pump, need a scanner now for proper bleeding. When I read the shop manual on that Cruze, said only run the pump for a few seconds or else you will burn up the motor. Seen larger motors on model slot cars.
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