2011 Hyundai Sonata "Clicking" Sound

Discussion in 'Import Vehicles' started by Fafinbound, Feb 12, 2017.

  1. Fafinbound

    Fafinbound Newbie

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    Please fill out the following to ask a question.

    MAKE: Hyundai
    MODEL:Sonata
    YEAR:2011
    MILES:82000
    ENGINE:2.4
    DESCRIBE ISSUE....I have an intermittent "clicking" sound coming from the front left wheel area. It only occurs while the vehicle is moving. The frequency of the clicking increases with the speed of the car. The slightest brake application will cause the clicking to stop. It happens most often when the vehicle is first driven, however on occasion it will begin while at highway speeds. It does not occur every time the vehicle is drive.
    On a recent ten hour drive from NC to Fl it did not occur at all. The next day the clicking started again and lasted for 70 miles.

    My local garage has driven the car, heard the "clicking" and then could not find anything that might be causing the sound.

    I have read on other forums of owners of Hyundai Sonatas, Elantras and Velostars experiencing the same "clicking" sound. They have, in some cases been able to stop the clicking by having the axle nut loosened and re-torqued to specs. Some have had the CV axle replaced.

    My local garage loosened and re-torqued both axle nuts with no change to the clicking.

    I have come across a Hyundai TSB: 14-DS-001-1 that has to do with replacing the CV axle. However I don't have access to the details as to what the problem the TSB addresses.

    Question: 1. What might be causing this "Clicking?"
    2. Do you have access to the TSB, and if so, is it applicable?
    3. If the CV axle has to be replaced would that come under the 100,000 mile Power train warranty?

    I have an audio file of the sound, but can't seem to upload it.
     
  2. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Hi newbie, welcome to the site.

    Yes, I have come across this problem before.

    I would suggest loosening the axle shaft nut and re-tightening to proper torque WITH A NEW NUT. If that does not improve, a new cv shaft maybe is in order. Also, be sure wheel nuts are torqued properly, the tolerances on the Hyundai are very tight. The disk to hub clearance is very important.

    When I work on these cars, some times I have to split the discs/rotors with an acetylene torque so tight they get.

    Also, when I work on the front of these korean things, I replace everything. They usually do another 100000km's.

    As for your other question, about the warranty, I do know they have a 10yr warranty plan. But you would have to call your service manager. I am uncomfortable telling you if it is warranty or not as I have not seen the car.

    My recommendation, @82k, replace the rotors, pads, lubricate the caliper pins, your ticking sound may go away, but for sure, investigate the cv joint. I am not in front of my personal computer right now, but when I get back home, I will post a copy of that TSB in PDF form. Hoping that will help me to help you.

    But if your interested, you can buy a cheap alldata subscription for your car, all TSB and schematics and repair information will be there. I highly recommend that, as the price of the subscription will pay for itself in the long run.

    I think there is a link on this site for just that to makes things easier for you. We techs make no money off that, I just highly recommend it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2017
  3. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    I almost never say this here, but if my future advice will keep you running, hit the donate button. It helps to keep this site alive.
     
  4. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    I will probably post that TSB later today.

    Or one of the other wrenches may do that also.
     
  5. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Oh, I forgot to say, can you tell me what country or state you live in. Sometimes, origin of car details helps as temps and terrain greatly affect a car such as this.

    I work in the tundra, but live north of montreal. So that would also help me help you.
     
  6. Fafinbound

    Fafinbound Newbie

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    Thanks for your reply. I'll have those recommendations performed. The brake rotors and pads were replaced about 16k miles/18 months ago. The clicking started about 10 months ago. The car has been a daily driver in Raleigh, NC, combination city/Hwy driving with decent roads.
     
  7. Silverstone90

    Silverstone90 Newbie

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    Had the same problem with my car.
     
  8. Fafinbound

    Fafinbound Newbie

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    Silverstone, were you able to get rid of the clicking noise? I've still got the problem.
     
  9. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    One thing I forgot to mention, the wheel hub nut washer has a direction to be installed in. The washer you will notice has a convex side. Often a tech can miss this.

    Here is a snapshot of what I mean. This is often what causes this infamous sound. So the clicking sound will come from the shaft splines in hub if this washer is not installed correctly, and as I said before a few months ago, make sure nut and washer are new. They are not expensive to buy.

    Here is the snapshot and torque specs should be shown. Very often over looked and stumped many techs out there. Also, torque for hub nut is about 160 to 190 ft/pnds. Screenshot (64).png
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2017
  10. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Also, the description in snapshot is not clear, cuz they say castle nut and split pin in removal, but later on they say lock nut and to stake it in replacement description.

    From my experience, when a lock nut has been staked, ALWAYS install a new nut. No so bad if it is a castle nut. Now if you really want to cheap out, you can swap the left for the right side, the stake point will change sometimes. But best to go new.

    So check to see which setup you have. Castle nut with split pin, or stake-able lock nut. Snap shot of what I mean below. Torque is still the same. You will notice picture stayed the same, but the wording changed when I read further to the replacement part and noticed the difference in wording and set-up.

    The convex washer does NOT change and is primordial it is installed correctly. Screenshot (66).png
     
  11. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Some times, the noise has gone on for so long without attention from the client, the shaft and hub need to be replaced. The noise will go away under load or braking as the splines are loaded either way, but when cruising and no braking, clicking/rattling may occur.

    When replacing the shaft and wheel nut and proper torque done, and clicking still persists, then a new hub is needed also.

    A good tech should check this as freeplay before installing the locking hardware. Just a tip for those out there having this same problem.

    Simply hold the outer CV joint and rotate back and forth the hub with locking hardware removed. Excessive play will be very easy to spot when all rust and debris is properly cleaned.

    A new hub and CV shaft should have a very snug fit.
     

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