'96 Mopar A604 P0300, Won't move

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#1
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MAKE: Chrysler
MODEL: Town & Country
YEAR: 1996
MILES: 181K
ENGINE: 3.8
DESCRIBE ISSUE....just bought as project but don't have it home yet. Tranny condemned by PO because it won't move forward or backward, and does make an odd sound when running, but only code is P0300. Seems like it's hitting on all 6 cylinders to me. I was thinking of clearing the code to see if it would move then. Thoughts?
 
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#2
IMHO, P0300 should have nothing to do with vehicle not moving. Clearing the code to see if there is still a misfire would be OK to do, but will not make your car move.

Wait and see what our expert, bp, has to say. He is busy and may not see this for a few days.
 

billr

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#4
That P0300 isn't related to it not moving at all. Have you looked at both axles, to make sure one isn't broken? Live-data would be great to use here, if the trans turbine is turning (as shown by live-data) and the VSS isn't showing any speed, then you know the problem is in the trans. And, you can check that all shift solenoids are being commanded correctly
 
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#5
Thanks, billr. Haven't looked at the axles; I will do that. I don't believe the live data on my scanner does what you are describing. If the solenoids were not getting their signals, wouldn't that throw a code? P0700? I just ordered a trans pressure gauge on eBay and will walk thru the manual for testing the clutchpack pressures,

MT
 

billr

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#6
Yes, a code would probably be set if commands were sent to the solenoids and the proper voltages weren't connected. However, live-data could tell you if no command was sent at all.

Have you verified the shift arm on the trans seems to be moving OK? Maybe disconnect the shift cable/rod from that arm and manually put it in the detented position for D, you should be able to feel that if the cable is off. Frankly, though, the presence of "odd sounds" makes me think this isn't just a failure of the shift arm being in the correct positions.

Usually, there is a lower bell-housing cover that can be removed to allow R&R of the screws holding the torque converter to the flex-plate. I would take that cover off and look for any obvious damage in there.
 

nickb2

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#7
and does make an odd sound when running,
PLZ describe the sound better than just "odd". Is it a whine, a buzzing, grinding, knocking or scraping?

It would be good to remove the pan first to see if any debris is in there. If you see any debris in the pan, than don't even bother doing the tests for clutch pack pressure. It would be a waste of time.

This may sound bizarre, but I have seen this before. The bolts that hold flywheel to convertor had sheared off. Had a bad grinding noise. Flywheel was free spinning and not driving the convertor. Easy enough to check. Three 10mm bolts to remove to see if the flywheel is still bolted to the torque. Like I said, not a common occurance, but worth a look.
 

nickb2

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#9
Another quick check also is to remove the cooler lines to see if the pump is pushing fluid. If no debris is in the pan, no discoloration of fluid such a clutch material, I would remove the valve body and clean it reassemble AND THEN check pressures with your e-bay pressure gauge.

It is rare to loose all movement and reverse at once without a major component failure such as a convertor failure, or stripped sun gears etc. Most times debris will be apparent. That is why checking fluid quality is essential here. If the fluid is nice and red, no debris, I would tend towards looking for something sticking in the valve body or something to that effect.

And also as Billr said, it would be so very easy with some live data to see what the input and output sensors are reading. Try jacking the front wheels if this is not a 4wd model, if 4wd, jack all 4, and see if the wheels/drive shafts turn when engaged in drive or reverse. Do they turn?
 
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#10
I'll define the sound better when it gets towed to me, hopefully tomorrow. Yes, absolutely I will check those torque converter bolts. I will also pull that linkage loose at the shifter. BTW, assumption going in was this would be my first tranny 'repair'...anything better than that is gravy. Also, this being a '96, on the chance that it's the original tranny, it could also have the inferior underdrive/overdrive pressure plate snap ring and drum. That snapring could have finally snapped,

MT
 

bp042665

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#11
ok you are on the right track with converter bolts a fast check is take off cooler line and start it if fluid is coming out then the pump is working have seen this a few times like mentioned earlyer a converter input can strip out and give a no movement also internal failer . i want to help but i will be in the woods with a cub scout camp out so i wont be back to check on this till monday sorry all P.S. if you have input speed signal that rules out stripped converter live data would be a big help just saying
 
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#12
Ok, got this sick puppy home, had a few moments to play with it. When you put it in either R or D, there is a slight lurch FORWARD but that's it. It doesn't matter how much you rev it USUALLY, although as I listened for the sound I figured since it doesn't move in D, why not get under the hood, rev it, and listen. It started to run over me, but didn't. No one said I was too bright...anyway, I describe the sound as a whirring or whining. I think something is broken, perhaps a hub. I looked at live data and in drive revving engine it shows no RPM. That's about all I can see to do with this scanner. I think a teardown is coming and it should prove very interesting.

MT
 
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#15
I have a Launch 123 scanner. Perhaps I'm not using all the functions. Trolling around, is it the case that the Launch X431 Creader VII+ and/or VIII can actually read Mopar TCM codes AND CVI? For under $200? Anybody know?

MT