Both P0011 and P1391 codes

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#1
Make
Volkswagen
Model
Gti vr6 24v
Year
2004
Miles
235500
Engine
2.8L 24v
I drive a 2004 Vw gti vr6. It has 235k and I recently had the timing chains done, along with cam sensors. My mechanic is currently stumped. I'm getting P0011 and P1391. Re-replaced the sensors and timing chains have been triple checked. Car has no problems with starting or stalling. I feel like acceleration is suffering, but otherwise, the CEL is the only thing that tells me there is something wrong. Any suggestions? Currently theorizing about the ECU, or the vvt control valve and screen.
 

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nickb2

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#2
Sorry, should have chimed in earlier. Been busy with life and work.

These Vr6`s are known for forming carbon buildup, much like audi`s.

So I would suggest trying to do an engine flush to clean all the oil passages and screens as you call them before suspecting anything remotely connected to replacing the ecu.

In the CMP control the ecu has internal faults for the CMP sensor strategy, and P1391 is not part of the diagnostic strategy to replace the ECU.

The 1391 is for a circuit failure, specifically, short to ground, while the P0011 is more for an adjustment but often, they can`t self adjust due to gunkd up oil passages.

You could try taking oil pressure, but sometimes that will not tell you if a particular passage is blocked.

I recommend liqui moly engine flush or similar. Liqui moly is great for german engineered stuff. It is made there and specifically branded for this type of application.

Also, try sticking to a very good synthetique 5w30 oil after your flush. A friction modifier also. The euro kind. They have different requirements that some walmart stuff doesn`t agree with.

A kit like this should be available at select stores.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liqui-Mo...tment-Additive-Friction-Reducer-/222513383569
 

nickb2

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#3
I work on many euro cars now with my new job, we use alot of this and we use penzoil euro synthetic which I kind of dislike, but for now, I haven`t seen any problems from its bulk usage since I have been there.

But for a Vr6 with variable cams and elongated change over barrel intake. if it was my car, I would be very particular on what I put in there.

Some may say any domestic oil is ok, but I say it isn`t. I am after all the guy who dives in there every day, and I see how cleaner an engine is when it has the right oil in it. I see the service records and also the type of ppl that drive them. You can tell just by the inside of an engine what type of client your dealing with.
 

nickb2

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#4
I am not particularly keen on 2 thirds of the euro clientel we usually see. But those who take these nice rides seriously can get great satisfaction out of them.

I specifically hate the granola eating, save the whales, save the planet audi drivers who just seem to know every thing better than you cuz they have some brown patches sown on thier jackets but just can`t seem to keep a car clean and the rich soccer mom benz and beamer drivers who don`t have a clue as long as hubby is paying the bills.


That was my rant of the day. :eek:
 
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#5
I was thinking a flush is the best way to start. Kinda gratifying as a super-lay-person. Haha. Thanks for the reply. I will get that flush. I usually go to valvoline for oil changes and since I'm not broke anymore, I get full synthetic oil changes. Is there something I should be asking for? My mechanic uses Kendall oils. Similarly, should I ask for something else rather than a Kendall full synthetic? I'll buy what I need and my mechanic will use it. Should I pull and clean or replace my VVT solenoid specifically? Or will that be taken care of with the flush? Here's a pic of my boo for emotional attachment! Bought her new in 04!! 20180331_191557.jpg 20180331_191557.jpg
 
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#6
BTW I hate hipster faux progressive jerks myself. I bought my car new cuz I love German beauties. SUVS are minivans for people who cant accept they're soccer moms. My car has been with me through thick and thin and I want to preserve the hell out of it. Thinking about getting the engine rebuilt. That'd probably square it away, right? Thanks again for the response.
 

nickb2

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#7
You can pull the solenoids after the flush, if they are still gummed up, simply wash them and pass some shop air, should remove the big chunks. The flush (in principle) should take care of the varnish like build up. If the cam actuator is jammed stuck, that might need replacing on bank one since that bank is the one having the `performance issue, usually, both should be replaced at same time of chain change, but you didn`t get that done if I read correctly. No big deal, part of the learning curve.

Normally, when you see a code like that,(P0011) don`t steer right away at a electrical solution, most often it is mechanical in nature as I wrote in my previous post. The other code however will require some trouble shooting so you stop throwing useless sensors at this car.

Here is a downloadable chart you can put on that phone of yours and use it as a guide and check it yourself with a multimeter.

You will notice, that only at the end of the chart, do they say to replace the ECU. All tests must be done diligently, if not, your in for some huge useless expense if you miss a step.

ACE 0 is the chart, all can be done with a multimeter and a basic back probe kit.
 

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nickb2

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#8
I`ve steered many ppl in the right direction this way if they stick with a step by step approach. When some want to jump steps, I am no longer responsible for my advice.

I also am maybe going back to a euro car. I am strongly looking at a 330 right now. Needs some love, but thats why I will probably pay 1600$ cdn for it. Those in line 6`s are awesome. I had one just like it in my older 325i. The body is sweet, the engine I know is bullet proof but they also have problems in the VVT vanos system of their design. Hence the strick oil requirements.

Kendall is a good oil if its GT-1.
 

nickb2

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#10
Normally, I am a toyota lover, those things go forever on a dime. But me to, have had a change in revenue and want that beemer feel back. I like the way they drive on the highway. Nothing fancy, they just work, and like a toyota, go forever. Plus you can chip them for cheap with no modifications.
 
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#11
Thanks for the advice folks. I will run through each step as recommended. My first move after the cel is eliminated (after inspection... Finally) is probably an APR stage 1+ tune. Improves throttle response, HP and mileage?? Yes please!
 
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#12
That's the first generation of BMW 3 series that I absolutely loved. Missed that post, presumably because I usually read this on my phone. Thanks again for that advice. Waiting to get closer to my next oil change for that flush. Don't want to waste that darned brand new synthetic I just used. Got my Liqui Moly kit at home waiting for this.