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Brake issue with '01 Jimmy

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    DESCRIBE ISSUE....can't get the brake pedal to have pressure after bleeding. Here's the history. Found during annual inspection that the left rear brake pads were worn. (right pads ok) Had a shop put new pads and rotors on both sides. He said the left rear caliper seemed a bit stiff. Well, it seemed to be ok (this was done three weeks ago), Thursday I noticed a dragging sound, removed the right rear wheel and found the caliper was real bad and had worn the pads clear down. This ruined the new rotor. Bought a new rotor, new pads, and a caliper. Put that all on this morning. Had a friend pump the brakes ( and hold them) and I bled them. did it 10 times and always pure steady flow of fluid. Little to no air except on the first bleeding. Now I have no "pedal" even after all that bleeding. I even bled the left rear five times and got good fluid flow each time. Plenty of fluid in the reservoir(never let it get beyond 1/2 full. What am I doing wrong, or what could have happened? I had good pedal even with the worn down pads when I pulled it in the garage. Oh, when I took the brake line off the old caliper, I lost very little fluid.
  2. I gotta ask... does this have ABS?
  3. yes
  4. All I can offer is my condolences.
  5. Did you let the master cylinder run empty when you were bleeding it?
  6. On these older vehicles could always find the plug for the ABS pump and hit it with 12 volts, with a reservoir filled to the top, could bleed in seconds. Would pull the bleed first and coat that with Permatex non-hardening gasket maker, this would prevent air from leaking in.

    Since they made ABS law, now you need a scanner to activate the pump, no access to the pump. After a terrible job from my dealer, had to vacuum bleed, drive it to 8 mph, turn off the engine, this operated the ABS pump for one second. After doing this five times in a roll, finally got a full pedal.

    Shop manuals also state, if you do have a scanner to activate the pump, only for a very short time or else you will burn the pump off.

    Had to redo all the calipers on my 88 Supra, just 28 years old, also the master cylinder. One trick if just replacing one caliper, is to stick a 2 by 4 in front of the seat and used a stick to hold down the brake pedal, this will keep the reservoir full so air does not get into the ABS pump. But since I drained the entire system dry, just pulled the relay for the ABS pump, and jumpered the the normally opened contact terminals. And could run that pump all day without any damage. Sure making crap today.

    These older system pulse at 10 times per second, this new crap made law are more like one pulse per second, all new vehicles are this way, if you hit the brake pedal hard enough, sounds like the front end is falling apart, and for all you know it is. Best part of traction control, the reverse of ABS, pulses a spinning wheel, like going up a hill and one wheel slips. some vehicles think you are in a skid and also kill the engine, but the best part, it can be switched off.

    Also lie like crazy when they say ABS does not interfere with normal braking, if a solenoid valve sticks closed, or one of the driving transistors short out, you get zero brakes to that will. Can send my granddaughter to buy brake parts. but when it comes to showing ABS parts, most aftermarket do not want the liability to show codes. Need at least a 4 grand scanner to do this, so okay to full around with everything else except ABS that does not interfere with normal braking.

    Also airbags are law, a zillion of them, what they don't tell you, only good to 25 mph if not wearing your belt, 40 mph if you are, sure live in a world loaded with BS. TMPS can cost you over 700 bucks to repair that replaces a five buck tire pressure gauge. Kid with a five year vehicle has is battery going dead, costing him 82 bucks a wheel to have that POS sensor replaced. Instead of hanging these on the valve stem, guys that are not careful when removing a tire, break them off, it was this way, so they say, could have mounted these in the rim with a replaceable battery.

    Never made a law that all convenience gas stations have free air, so screwed anyway with a low tire. But sure can buy a six pack of beer.
  7. Well, I am very embarrassed to post this, but you guys are so darn good at this and really go overboard in helping people, you deserve the "rest of the story". I had ordered two calipers when the one stuck, but decided to only have the new one installed on the side that gave me the issue. I was away from my home area when this happened. Turns out the shop that put the new caliper on is not that great of a shop. After my attempt at bleeding failed, I took it to my regular mechanic. Took him all of 15 minutes to find the problem. Seems the "shady shop" put the wrong caliper on. He put the right caliper on the left wheel. I didn't know they would interchange physically, so it never flagged to me that something was amiss. Putting the wrong caliper on placed the bleeder facing down. This wouldn't let the piston bleed. Even though I was getting a good stream when I opened the bleeder, it was not bleeding the air out of the piston. I took the other caliper to him and sure enough, it's now fine, and I have a good pedal. I should have caught that when I bled it, but just never thought that wold matter. You guys deserve a good laugh now and then, so I felt it only fitting to relay the final results. Only consolation is that I have a new caliper to fit the RR that we know if the correct one now, if I ever need it.
    NickD, my friend made a "pedal pusher" out of a long furniture clamp by reversing the ends. He puts one end on the steering wheel and the other on the brake pedal and keeps squeezing it until he has plenty of tension, then he can go open a bleeder. He showed me how it works. Pretty neat!! Thanks for all the input.
  8. Very interesting. Thanks for letting us know.