Broken belt caused oil leak

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#1
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MAKE:chevy
MODEL: monte carlo
YEAR
:2007
MILES: 132000
ENGINE
:5.3
DESCRIBE ISSUE.... The drive belt broke and now I have an oil leak. I'm guessing pieces of the old belt are wrapped around the crank behind the pulley causing the leak. Any suggestions? I plan to take the crank pulley off. Good idea? or bad? things to watch out for?
 

billr

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#2
Yeah, take that dampener/pulley off the crank so you can inspect the timing cover.
 
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#3
Some things to consider....driving a car with a broken belt sometimes makes Power steering overflow: don't let that fool you.
....If your cranks seal is not injured but merely insulted, maybe you can sooth it by liberal soak with silicone spray or WD-40. May be worth a shot. (Yes, I am assuming you are able to remove belt shrapnel.)
 
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Some things to consider....driving a car with a broken belt sometimes makes Power steering overflow: don't let that fool you.
....If your cranks seal is not injured but merely insulted, maybe you can sooth it by liberal soak with silicone spray or WD-40. May be worth a shot. (Yes, I am assuming you are able to remove belt shrapnel.)
Thank you Mobile Dan! I am going to try what you said and BTW, I know it's oil because it's oil that it's loosing (almost a quart every 100 miles).

Can any of you confirm the bolt holding the crank pully is a right handed bolt? I hit it with an air driver and got nothing. I'm going to have to turn it hard and sure would hate to twist it off.
 

billr

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#5
Pretty sure it is RH. All the traditional big and small-block Chevy V-8s had RH, I don't think they would have changed it for the newer SBC family.
 
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#6
Finally got the harmonic balancer pulley off. There's less than an inch between it and the frame so I had to get creative to get it off. Anyway, the seal is bad. Can anyone of you tell me what I have to do to replace the seal? It doesn't look to me like the cover will have to be pulled. But I don't think all of the seal is remaining so I don't even know what a new one looks like.
 

nickb2

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#7
Screenshot (191).png Here is a snapshot.

I have gotten inventive by using old muffler pipe cut flush and hammered in slowly and evenly without damaging the new seal. Thing is, space is at a premium. Need to lower the engine the most it will go.
 

nickb2

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#8
http://www.carid.com/national/engine-crankshaft-seal-front-mpn-9845.html

States this one will fit the LS/LT models. The OEM one is 29$. This one is 10$.

7hrs to do the front cover gasket so not that much of a big deal, they like to leak coolant from there. So maybe while your in there, you could bolster up some courage. But it should be no biggie to get that old one out with a small screw driver while being careful not to scratch the cover. Driving the new one home will be hard, like I said, space is at a premium.

Good luck. Hope those pics helped.:bat:;)
 

billr

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#10
Does the seal ride on the crank in that engine, or on the dampener hub?
 

Gus

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#11
Hub......you are looking for a deep groove on the hub....if there is one, two options.....new dampener or a sleeve....

Find it hard to believe that belt got in there and damaged the seal......I know the 3.8 had an oil sending unit near the belt....don't know if this engine has the sending unit near the belt, which could have hit it when the belt broke, causing a leak there.....any oil leaking on the dampener would be thrown everywhere...
 
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#12
Could also ask why that belt broke, really have to watch those limited lubricated ball bearings.

Use a hex head self tapping screw driven by a right angle impact wrench into the metal part of seals, least a couple of them to give something to pry out with.

On good stuff, a cover plate was made to hold a seal in with screws in it to make changing a seal easy. If you haven't figure this out yet, automotive is not good stuff, cheapest way possible.

GM replaced their fantastic ceramic compressor A-6 seal with a single lip seal, about the same time the EPA was screaming about refrigeration leaks. But later came out with a double lip seal, still cheap, but a tad better. How much does it cost to mold in a second lip? Obviously too much, you wouldn't have this problem with a double lip seal. If it is your problem.
 
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#13
Thank you everybody who helped. It's fixed and your help/advice was very valuable. Been driving it for a while this evening.
I'd like to answer the questions and give some feed back:
The hub/dampener was in good shape. I scratched it getting it off and had to sand it smooth but it wasn't where the seal rides.

As hard as it is to believe, the broken belt got in there. There were still pieces inside the hub/dampener and I'd pulled some out earlier. I know it's bad of me, but it was the original belt. Oops. Being well worn still wasn't why it went - an idler pulley bearing went out and I was waiting on it to come in from having ordered a new one - had the new belt in the seat when the old one broke. Maybe it getting in the hub/dampener and ruining the seal was Karma for not changing the belt for over 130,000 miles.

The old seal was a breeze to get out. Really. I don't know why. Maybe because it wasn't worn out but damaged???

The hardest part was getting the Harmonic Balancer/Dampener/Pulley off. When I say I got creative it was so as not to tell what I really did in case it didn't work. I drilled and tapped for two 6 mm bolts to pull it off. I spent waaayyy too much time with pullers, loaner pullers, make-shift rigs, etc... in that tiny space. It just wasn't happening. Drilling and tapping the holes worked great!

Here's the old seal, new seal installed, and pulley showing the two tapped holes:
dampener tapped.png New seal installed.png Old seal.png
 
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#14
Don't know how many car salesman told me with a single drive belt system, you only have one belt to replace. What they don't say is that single drive belt puts the same load on a tiny idler pulley as a huge double roll ball bearing in the compressor idler pulley. And if that single belt breaks, most important is losing your water pump. Know of many people that tried to stretch it and ended up cracking their aluminum head on a cast iron block, another really stupid idea. But say that saves a couple of pounds for better fuel economy. Real reason, its a lot cheaper to manufacture.

Ha, recall driving my 73 Fleetwood in the summer when my compressor idler pulley decided to seize, 400 miles from home. Still had four good belts so could keep on driving. Stopped at an auto store, got a new bearing, borrowed a puller, had a retaining ring in it, could tap out the new bearing, put the new one in, and was reading to go again. Can't even do that with this new crap, GM decided to peen that bearing in.

Know you had a heck of a time, but could have been much worse, so much for single belt drive systems. Really a stupid idea. At around 80K, have to replace all those limited lubricated ball bearings and usually an all day job. Alternator is the second to go, GM is also peening in that front alternator bearing, anything to save $.02.
 

nickb2

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#15
I am really amazed that the belt did that much damage. But in this trade, you never know what is in store.

Thx for the pictures, it helps to put these funny stories into perspective.

So we can call this one :fixed:??