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Crank, no start

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    MAKE: Toyota
    MODEL:Rav4 D-4D
    YEAR:2008
    MILES:126000
    ENGINE:2.2 Diesel
    DESCRIBE ISSUE.... Diagnostic test code P0200 given. All checks done stage 1-4 as stated by BAT advice but getting very high voltage reading of 86.4v (which should be 12v) when checking for current at injectors pins. Have used 3 different voltage meters, including test light and globe melted. This reading is from B+ of injectors pins (all 4 give same reading).

    Have checked all 4 injectors resistance with ohm meter and they fine - giving same resistance reading on all 4 injectors.

    What is causing this problem - my injector driver?
     
  2. I am assuming this is not a north American market rav 4.

    So I am going to have a lot of difficulty helping you with schematics and REAL specs.

    But if the globe melted, I am going to need more info.

    Was there already a thread open for this?
     
  3. Normally, and this is my advice, are you checking amperage, or voltage?

    Cuz if after three voltmeters, one test light globe melted, you may have your meters on the wrong scale blowing fuses and probably not probing the circuit in the right way. .

    Plz confirm.

    Is it your injector driver module? I really don't know what could cause this type of amperage draw. So you now need to tell us your level of technical skills with voltmeters.
     
  4. Plz tell us a little background of your technical ability, we will help further so you don't blow a 4th meter.

    I am sleepless tonight, the wind is still howling at my windows with the cyclone that just hit our eastern shores.

    So I have time to think, cuz I am not able to sleep.
     
  5. So, I am assuming this is a direct injection diesel or common rail? Correct?

    In any case, this type of engine will need 8 times or more fuel pressure and can need quite a lot of amperage to actuate an injector to insert fuel.

    So, again, are you on a capable meter to measure that type of amperage. Because it would totally normal for a globe type test light to melt. You may even have fried the injector module just by trying these types of tests without proper knowledge.

    This is not my writing, it comes from Wikipedia.


    Pilot injection is also utilized by the common rail fuel system to smooth engine operation. Small amounts of fuel are introduced into the combustion chamber prior to the main injection event

    This engine uses Toyota's D-4D Common Rail fuel injection technology operating at ultra high pressures of up to 135 MPa (1350 bar or about 19,580 psi) which is about 8 times more than the pressure of conventional fuel injection systems within a "common rail" that feeds the injectors on all four cylinders. This is combined with a 32-bit ECU which controls fuel quantity, valve-timing, and boost pressure at different engine parameters resulting in best fuel economy and also full utilization of power during acceleration.
     
  6. Hi Nick, I'm from South Africa and The Rav4 I have is locally made. The problem started about 6 months ago (our winter) when the vehicle started when cold more and more difficult - l assume it being the Glow Plugs but no warning lights ever came up. About a week ago I got a warning message saying 'check battery' and in the same day the car would not start again.

    Glow plugs, battery and normal service items were replaced and full service was then carried out. Crank sensors were removed and cleaned and diagnostic test was done. Follow codes then came up - P0200, P0102, P0113 & U0105.

    I then proceeded to follow the BAT Diagnostic code search for code P0200 which gave all info and started testing all possible problems - mainly is the injectors receiving current? Yes it is but but an excessive amount - voltage showed 86.4v on 2 multi meter's which I thought is impossible as you should only be receiving 12v from battery to injector connectors?

    I then went a step further as recommend to test this with a test light and the globe in the light tester melted from the high voltage from injector pin
     
  7. Ouch, we in SA are experiencing heat waves at moment of 38-45'c. I'm not very technically equipped or experienced in this area but am open to advice on how to proceed further.

    It's a common rail system but will check the new multi meter purchased and revert - what range should this meter be able to read?
     
  8. Technical skills - very little with voltmeters. Can I send you a image of the current one used - I understand I'm checking DCV on the meter as currently plug in?
     
  9. BTW, hello to south Africa, wish we had your winter here.

    So, again, are you sure you are measuring amperage, or voltage?. Because those are two different things.

    There is next to no way you are getting 86.4v DC on a 12v rated DC circuit.
     
  10. If that was the case, the whole engine harness would have melted.

    I think what you are trying to say, is that you think you have a direct short to ground? Yes?

    Plz correct me if you think I am wrong. I am french, if anybody else here can correct my bad English, plz do so.

    We are a community of help here for free. So someone will chime in here shortly to correct me if I made a written error.
     
  11. I very much encourage you to visit this site. Toyota is a very good company in regards to free information.

    ;)

    https://www.toyota-tech.eu/
     
  12. I could see that maybe you probed a circuit, got a 86.4 #, that would be normal for a OHM reading (resistance) for a common rail injector.

    Since these engines need such a high fuel pressure, it would be totally normal to see that type of resistance reading.

    Just look at your fuse box, and tell me what the fuel system fuse is rated at. If that fuse is not blown, you have an injector driver circuit code like you have described.

    Again, since I am not a south African technician, I am not familiar with what those specifications should be.
     
  13. From my understanding, the injector solenoid needs to combat a high compression to inject fuel. The only way to acutely measure that, is with a wave form scope.

    I have just completed a study course on hybrid vehicles. The meters to check those systems out are very similar to what you need for common rail injection engines.

    Sadly the course was in french, and my translation skills are limited to translate off of hand without having to translate my course notebooks, and that would take me weeks to do here and now.
     
  14. Maybe you were getting a 8.64v reading on a 12v circuit, that would be more reasonable. But if you were on a 2 volt scale, that would equate "maybe" something close to the reading you have on those three meters you tried out.

    I hope some of this is making sense to you.

    Good luck, study, post back results to keep this thread going, it may help someone else out in the futur.
     
  15. Ouch, this is going to become a costly exercise. I'll check what I can find in SA tomorrow as our currency is trade at R12.56 to the $.

    I could just start with a Injector Driver module but let's see. I have a Toyota Corolla 1993 which is direct injection and used same tester at got a 12.2v reading on those injector connectors. Is direct and rail totally different to check?

    See photos from Rav4 test when tested on DCV 200 range on B+ pin and ground. IMG_20180107_094013.jpg IMG_20180107_094013.jpg View attachment 9903

    I think I'm doing something wrong but thanks for the advice and will chat later.
     
  16. Thanks for all the info and help. Will use the info wisely and be safe in storm you guys are experiencing.

    Will update later.
     
  17. Off topic, but the last couple of replies to this thread got caught in the "moderator's queue" as possible spam; that's why they didn't appear here promptly. I have no idea why that happened, but will pass the info on to jordanr.
     
  18. Sorry, but in the photo's provided, I am only seeing 12v with meter connected to battery. I am NOT seeing a injector solenoid connecter and the voltage readout THERE.
     
  19. Oh, ok, found the 86.9v reading photo. However, I would have liked to see the size of the wires of the circuit you are testing.

    Also, a amp claw that would have shown current.

    As I said before, I cannot give PROPER info since I have never seen a Rav4 common rail engine like this under my thumb as they do not exist yet in canada. As for USA, I cannot confirm, but my ALLDATA says the USA has not seen them yet either for this year RAV4.

    If this system has a step up transformer such as an IDM that would be normal as the injector/s need quite a lot of current to open. My guess is that, then yes, from my study of such engines, you will see such voltages and more as that is what is required to drive open the injector/s.

    You could try another IDM module, they fail very often in ford/international duramax engines. This is a toyota, and probably don't use an international IDM driver box. But my gut feeling is that the IDM is trying to do it's job, but may have a internal driver FET gone out which is causing your no start.

    Those codes you talked about, I cannot confirm.

    If the wires you are trying to check are the size of your little/pinky figure, plz be very cautious doing voltage and current checks. There is a very serious or imminent threat to your safety, and since (you wrote) you have very limited knowledge of how to use meters, you may find yourself getting bit quite hard by the current.

    That is WHY I wrote, that is NOT an adequate meter for diagnostics of this type of engine. Not to sound snobbish, but the meter you are using is a very cheap meter. If you have gone through three meters trying to check this issue, you are obviously doing something wrong and checking a circuit that is very hazardous to your health.

    At this point, I am very iffy about continuing to give you advice as I would feel very bad to give you advice just to find out you have had a accident on behalf of my advice.

    An IDM is a very precise module as it needs a very high duty cycle for the short duration/action it needs to do for a diesel engine of this type.

    Step 1- I suggest you read up as much as you can on common rail engines. Knowledge is you best bet here. If you lack that knowledge, take it to a professional. If you lack one in your area, repeat step 1.

    Sadly, for safety issues, I am going to step out of this thread.