Dual batteries in e350

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#1
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MAKE: Ford
MODEL: E350
YEAR: 2006
MILES: 168,500
ENGINE: 5.4 liter
DESCRIBE ISSUE.... Battery dies because of cargo lights. I kill a battery in about two years because I have seven LED cargo lights and a cab light that stay on for about 10 minutes after I open a door. I run a Handyman Business. I have to charge the battery about every 10 days. The charging system is in good order. I even installed a volt meter in the cab to monitor charging and voltage levels. Battery will be at 12.6 volts when fully charged, or driven a distance. Voltage output is 13.8 to 14.2 Yesterday the battery was at 11.0 volts... you guessed it... no start.....jump from a customer. My goal is to add a dual battery system with an isolator system that charges the main battery and then the secondary battery. My question is : For the time being can I install an auxiliary battery and run cables to it in parallel from the main battery. This way I still am running 12 volts, but two batteries. I have two brand new batteries here, a 850 CCA for the main and a 770 CCA for the auxiliary. This would be temporary until I get a dual battery install kit and all the extras I need, and the time to do it all. Now I need to hear Yay or Nay and why please. Thank you.
 
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#2
I do not see any problem with two batteries, but why not install a switch that can turn off those pesky lights that are causing you the problem during the day when you do not need or want them.
 
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#3
I do not see any problem with two batteries, but why not install a switch that can turn off those pesky lights that are causing you the problem during the day when you do not need or want them.
JackC van.png Thanks for the reply. My van is full of "stuff" that is hard to find with seven cargo lights even during the day. I would like to add more lighting, but not sure that would be a good idea.
 
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#4
But with a switch you can turn it on when needed and off when you leave, thus eliminating the 10 minute automatic delay that seems to run down the battery.
Just a thought.

Or, how about a strong flashlight?
 

jd

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#5
If your seven lights are incandescent, maybe like backup light bulbs, you could re-lamp with LED's and get as much light from seven as you do now, with less amps draw than from one...
 

jd

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#9
Sorry for missing LED in about the first line of the thread...

You could set it up like an RV. Second battery is Deep Cycle (trolling motor battery etc.) connected to the road engine battery with an isolating relay. This relay energizes when the ignition is in RUN, charging the Deep Cycle. Engine off, the Deep Cycle gets discharged by your seven LED's, but Engine battery isn't because the Relay isn't energized. Crank up the Van, Relay energizes, Alternator charges BOTH batteries.
 

jd

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#11


Very simplified example.

1. Many don't use the Fuses
2. That Solenoid is Three Wire so it has to be Grounded
3. The "ON" wire is any 12V source that's live only when the Engine is Running
4. Motor homes add a push button switch from House Battery Positive (or that terminal on the Relay) to the "ON" terminal of the Relay. Then you can push the button to have the House Battery "Jump Start" the Starting Battery

I can help you source a Relay or a "Smart Isolator." Just be sure the Relay is Continuous Duty. It may look like a Starter Relay for a Riding Mower, but Mower can get by with a Momentary (till it starts) Relay. You need Continuous for charging.
 
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#12
But with a switch you can turn it on when needed and off when you leave, thus eliminating the 10 minute automatic delay that seems to run down the battery.
Just a thought.

Or, how about a strong flashlight?

I can't remember to turn off a flashlight. Always killing batteries (AA, AAA, D) I buy Heavy Duty batteries at the Dollar Store because I just burn up the Alkaline


Very simplified example.

1. Many don't use the Fuses
2. That Solenoid is Three Wire so it has to be Grounded
3. The "ON" wire is any 12V source that's live only when the Engine is Running
4. Motor homes add a push button switch from House Battery Positive (or that terminal on the Relay) to the "ON" terminal of the Relay. Then you can push the button to have the House Battery "Jump Start" the Starting Battery

I can help you source a Relay or a "Smart Isolator." Just be sure the Relay is Continuous Duty. It may look like a Starter Relay for a Riding Mower, but Mower can get by with a Momentary (till it starts) Relay. You need Continuous for charging.
Thanks jd, looks not too complicated or expensive. How well will this work with two conventional batteries. 850 CCA and 770 CCA both new batteries
 

jd

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#14
This Relay
at
https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP3...04122286&sr=8-7&keywords=battery+isolator+kit
will do it. It's four wire, so one of the two small terminals needs to be grounded. From there, all you really need is wire and terminals. If your lighting battery is a regular "starting" battery rated in CCA, it won't tolerate deep discharge as well as a "trolling" battery rated in AH (amp hours) will. So take that into account when your replace.
 
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nickb2

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#15
Hello, me being the cheap ass guy I am, why don't you check out the local auctions and you may find a old ambulance that has all the goodies you need for the conversion.