Dual batteries in e350

Discussion in 'Domestics' started by billj, Aug 27, 2017.

  1. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    Well, system up and running. I went over to Radio Shack and picked up a project box (remember them?). I did some major surgery on the box to cover the isolator terminals and most of the relay. I installed a dash indicator light when isolator is activated. I also have a pillar installed volt meter that reads everything off the ignition switch (ignore the warning, there is a red light that comes on below 11.5 volts) 105.png 106.png 107.png
     

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    Last edited: Oct 15, 2017
  2. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    Having this two battery system is great. Starting voltage has not been below 12.3 volts, normally 12.6 - 12.8 starting volts now, and I have been doing short trips last couple of weeks. Before I would drop to as low as 11.5 volts (no start) with short trips.
     
  3. jd

    jd Hero Member

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    It's a beautiful thing! You finished it off nicely!
     
  4. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    sheild1.jpg sheild2.jpg I made a modification to make it easier to test and charge the frame battery from under the hood by adding a metal strip at the isolator connection. Then I added a removable cover to the end of project box
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2017
  5. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    I cleaned up the look. Put in a relay wiring socket, some blue wiring conduit on all the wiring for this project and the fog light project I did on this site. blue.jpg
     
  6. JackC

    JackC wrench

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    Very Professional looking. Nice job.
     
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  7. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    Thank you JackC. A compliment from a BAT wrench means a lot to me. I try to do a job I can take pride in. Thanks again!
     
  8. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    I am going over the entire two battery system I installed, just to be sure everything is ok. It is working great except I may have been experiencing a power surge on the LED dash indicator light that shows that the Isolator is activated. Two new lights burned out about three weeks apart. I must admit it was not fused at the time. It is fused now, and I would like to list the fuses that I am using and get an opinion as to if I am in range of where I should be.

    100 AMP MEGA FUSE - BETWEEN FRAME BATTERY CABLE AND ISOLATOR LARGE TERMINAL
    20 AMP MINI FUSE - BETWEEN LARGE ISOLATOR TERMINAL (same isolator terminal as above) AND #30 PIN ON RELAY
    10 AMP MINI FUSE - BETWEEN SOLDERED CONECTION TO FUSED SIDE OF 20 AMP FUEL INJECTOR FACTORY FUSE AND #86 PIN ON RELAY (as a true ignition power source)
    10 AMP MINI FUSE - BETWEEN RIGHT HAND ISOLATOR SMALL TERMNAL AND LED DASH INDICATOR LIGHT (mentioned above)

    With my general knowledge of automotive wiring I think I am safe with the above, but if I am wrong please share with me.

    Happy Thanksgiving to all !!
    MR BILL
     
  9. jd

    jd Hero Member

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    Just to me, the fuse sizes seem OK.

    About the LED surge part, I looked at this post right away, and have pondered it since. Haven't had the first suggestion till now, and it's only a stray thought. So here goes...

    The old Points and Coil Ignition works off of a COLLAPSING Magnetic Field in the Primary (12-Volt) side of the Coil. To put it another way, a Field is created when the Points first Close. When the Points OPEN, the Primary Field collapses with a BANG. Faster than it had Charged. Works good for Ignition but anywhere else, it's a Voltage Spike. So, I wonder if there's a Spike when the Isolator (even the Bosch Relay) shuts OFF. LED's are electronics and electronics often don't tolerate spikes. That's why we find Diodes in strange little places. For example, the connector to your A/C compressor clutch probably has a Diode in or close to it. How and Why it works, I Dunno. I just know it's there to control the spike caused by the clutch disengaging.
     

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