heat issue

billr

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#46
What is the ambient temperature where this testing is being done? In my area, where "bitter cold" is 30F, no engine will keep from overheating if there is no flow through the radiator; but maybe the guys experienced with true cold can calibrate me better.

Maybe some pictures of how you have that hose clamped would help.

If you are taking it to anybody who does not have the capability to get OBD2 live-data, I think you are going to an iffy shop; I would be wary of any diagnosis given.
 

oddone1975

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#47
I take it to a friend but I didn't get pics of clamp set up by and as of now truck is down waiting to replace heater core as it failed and lately ambient temperature here has been around 10°F or lower but I'm wondering as my heater core feed hose runs directly off water pump and not the thermostat housing but blocking upper hose had absolutely no affect on temp or heat. Once heater core is done will see if any improvement but as of now that's where I'm at
 
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#49
Fuzzy pic, but looks like that is a setup that should get the job done. Ratchet clamp and two blocks of wood? On the upper RADIATOR hose? Hard to imagine that engine would stay cold just by fan blowing on engine block....but maybe...

Maybe I will look for hose routing for that truck...1998 Ram pickup with 5.2 V8.
 
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#50
Heater core gets hot coolant from the hose that attaches to that pipe to the left of the thermostat.
 
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oddone1975

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#52
I am hoping that the heater core maybe the problem seeing as is let go during blocking the upper hose waiting on my guy to get it replaced
 

billr

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#53
Have you been watching this guy the whole time; are you sure he didn't try to "blow out" the heater core with compressed air or a garden hose? A heater core should not rupture from just the pressure of the water pump, no matter what you are doing with the hoses. As to the clamping of the upper hose, I have to suspect that light-weight type clamp wasn't adequate, or simply wasn't tightened enough. Pictures of the clamping as it was actually done is what I was looking for; I want to see how well that hose was squeezed flat.

Nickb2, oh frigid guru, what do you think is the probability that an engine can cool OK forever with no coolant flowing through the radiator?
 

oddone1975

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#54
Yes I was watching I did not take pics of when it was clamped I have pics of what we used I trust this guy 1000% I used to work for him and he is a straight shooter nothing other than clamping and reversing the heater lines was done IMG_20180108_151345.jpg
 

nickb2

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#55
Nickb2, oh frigid guru, what do you think is the probability that an engine can cool OK forever with no coolant flowing through the radiator?
Have run an engine for weeks without any radiator, just the two hoses connected with a union made of muffler tubing. But that is, mind you @ -55c temps. That was also because the rad was a complete loss, and the radiator was going to take close to a month to get in that remote region of this planet. The big gaping hole the now gone rad was more than enough to cool down that engine while driving, if thats what you can call driving in Nunavut or Innu nation territory. Trucks and car are more like skiddoos on wheels. Don't need a radiator, the snow build up while driving in engine bay is quite enough. Don't let it idle too long though. ;) How did we check coolant level, we simply didn't and didn't care. Could hear the air gurgling in the truck, would burp it once in a while by loosing a clamp, when we had no heat in the cab, but then again, we couldn't idle it to long to stay warm, but with our snow suits and eskimo gloves on, we just laughed and drank beer and waited for the engine to die, which it never did. When the radiator was finally arrived and installed, the engine was no worse for wear.

In the meantime, we used a t-union for flushing with a screw on cap for hose adapter to fill it with a 70-30 coolant solution. That we attached to a heater hose, we made sure we had long enough to get the hose high enough and let gravity do the rest. How that for cannuck stupidness and can do attitude when nothing else is available but still need a work horse to work and drive and drink beer while doing both at same time.:eek:;):beer:

But in the case of this thread, I think I will wait to see where this goes once the heater core is in. For some reason, I had a feeling it was no good, same reason it sprung a leak "all of a sudden"
 
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billr

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#56
I gotta ask... if you idled that engine for a long period, would it start getting quite hot? I can certainly believe frigid air and snow blowing in through that missing rad opening could cool well enough. And, I'm guessing that truck engine wasn't pulling all that hard in those kind of weather conditions; it's kind of hard to maintain high speeds for extended periods, no matter how foolish the driver.

OK, back to the topic. Yeah, let's wait to see what the OP finds after the heater core is replaced, since that has to be done anyway now.
 
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#57
In "The case of The Radiatorless Truck", if the heater was working, it might be able to keep to engine cool under those conditions (low speeds, frigid temps). I have noticed that for some cars in cold weather, the electric radiator fan will never come on at an idle if the blower fan is cooling the heater core.
 
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#58
Ok heater core finally done what a pain that was! It was severely plugged believe it or not with chunks of permatex from when previous owner did the water pump. However now it's coming up to almost 210°F when sitting idle but once moving drops way down even with radiator still having cardboard in front of it. At idle heat is great but drops a lot once moving it's better than it was but still not 100%
 
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#59
Only thing he missed was the Cable to switch from defrost to floor to pannel he's going to fix that this week as it's stuck on defrost so my feet are still chilly lol
 
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#60
Your latest description of symptoms strongly suggests that the problem is with the thermostat. Stuck open, opening too soon, not closing completely, whatever...it's letting too much engine heat get out to the radiator.

There may be "chunks of Permatex" caught in T-stat preventing it from closing properly.
 
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