Heater core

Boomer

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#1
Make
Chevy
Model
S10
Year
2002
Miles
148,000
Engine
4.3
If anyone has done a heater core on a 2002 S10, can you tell me how you backed out the 2 studs on the firewall at the bottom of the case? I got the nuts completely loose. It looks like I just need to loosen the studs up enough that the case inside comes off the firewall. What tool takes those studs off without messing them up?. I've taken "part" of the inner fender down to get access. I'm trying not to pull the whole thing off because then I have to mess with the overflow, PCM, and battery. A lot more work. It's so tight as is though that I can hardly get in there. This is a nightmare
 

nickb2

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#2
Nuts for those studs are on the other side of firewall.

;) Dont f with them, and just remove them with vise grips or something like that, and use longer metal screw to put it back together.
 

nickb2

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#4
I'm trying not to pull the whole thing off because then I have to mess with the overflow, PCM, and battery. A lot more work. It's so tight as is though that I can hardly get in there. This is a nightmare

Your words, not mine, just follow instructions, that way it will all go back together better than if you shortcut.
 

Boomer

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#5
Nuts for those studs are on the other side of firewall.

;) Dont f with them, and just remove them with vise grips or something like that, and use longer metal screw to put it back together.
Hey Nick, I appreciate your help buddy. I finally did remove the whole wheelhouse because I just couldn't find enough room to get in there. Are you saying I MUST back out or completely remove the studs from the firewall side to be able to remove the core? It seems like this important warning is saying back them out til they are off the plastic on the interior. It seems to be saying they won't come out from the engine side.

Important: The heat/vent mounting stud has a flange on the inside and cannot be removed from under the hood. Stop turning the stud after the
threads are off the heat/vent module.

I am really stuck at this point. I don't want to mess anything up and have problems on re assembly so I'm trying not to get rammy.
 

nickb2

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#7
They come only out on inside of passenger compartment. Normally with the whole assembly.

I don't think I am speaking Chinese. I have done quite a few of these, and the more I wrestled with them, the more I broke shyte trying to find a quick go. Which always ended up in a shyte storm of JB weld or crazy glue, and just plain sucks for a finished job you give to a client.

I know that is NOT what you wanted to hear, but that is the way THIS cookie crumbles.
 

Boomer

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#8
They come only out on inside of passenger compartment. Normally with the whole assembly.

I don't think I am speaking Chinese. I have done quite a few of these, and the more I wrestled with them, the more I broke shyte trying to find a quick go. Which always ended up in a shyte storm of JB weld or crazy glue, and just plain sucks for a finished job you give to a client.

I know that is NOT what you wanted to hear, but that is the way THIS cookie crumbles.
Ok, here is what I am confused about. Those two lower studs with nuts on the engine side, can't come out from the interior with the assembly. The only thing showing are stud threads. I've included a picture that shows one of them. The other you can barely see on the other side of that bolt head. It looks just like the one you can see. So from the info you posted, it says, turn the studs (which you can only do from the engine side) until the threads come out of the INTERIOR portion of the case. Then stop. That makes sense.

Next point of confusion is when you said
Dont f with them, and just remove them with vise grips or something like that, and use longer metal screw to put it back together.

Were you saying, just use self tapping screws on the inside to put the case back on the firewall?
 

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Boomer

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#11
Boomer, you know me very well, I am french, but my logic is good.

So don't worry about my wording, but heed my logic instead.

You're funny and, a real good guy Nick. I always appreciate your help. I got the box off. Here is the scoop. There is no need to F with those studs. Take the nuts off and that's it. It will pull through the interior side of the firewall with the box once you have everything else undone. For anyone reading this because you are going to do your own, DO NOT turn those studs, even if Alldata tells you to.
 
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#12
First nightmare job on that 93 S10 SUV 4.3L, GM only used an O'ring on top of the keys on the valve stems, burning a quart of oil every 500 miles, Fel-Pro had a kit that included the umbrella type seals like you would find on a 41 Chevy. Took 3 cans of Seafoam to clean out the carbon, compression was only 105 psi, brought it back to 150, but left a smoke trail over 15 miles long. Did this at 3:00 AM on a only road.

Then the fuel system.

Heater core was another nightmare, when just about every supplier had some in stock, knew it was a major problem, but got an OEM, included new weather stripping, that was also rotten. Just removed the passenger seat, all the connectors on the right side, and swung it out hanging from a rope to the top of the roof.

Problem was the heater core had foot long inlets, sharp left turn into the side of the block when ever the engine torque would stress that tube until it finally broke off. With the new core, got a longer heater hose and clamped it to the wheel well, then to the block, was never a problem again.

Piece of tin R-4 compressor using large O-rings on each side, wasn't too bad to replace, but painted the new one, how can they expect a good seal using those large O-rings?

Just about every switch in that thing was using bare copper contacts.

Sure you want to play with yours? See on your 2002, still has that plastic spider for injectors or TBI, which one do you have? Wanted 700 bucks for that piece of plastic back then, now I see its in the 150 buck range.