Need a little advice on fuel filter replacement 2007 town car

Discussion in 'Domestics' started by corcovado, Jun 25, 2017.

  1. corcovado

    corcovado Jr. Member

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    Please fill out the following to ask a question.

    MAKE: Lincoln
    MODEL: town car
    YEAR: 2007
    MILES: 80,000
    ENGINE: 4.6
    DESCRIBE ISSUE....Hello, i replaced a (I believe the original) fuel filter. It appeared to be the source of my raw gas smell (from a previous post).

    However, I had A hard time removing it due to the extensive rust on it.

    My question is ......there was a black plastic ring, along with two o rings. The black plastic ring was stuck on the fuel filter. Once I removed said ring, I placed it on the new filter, along with the o rings. however I could not secure the fuel hose with the black plastic ring on the fuel filter, so I just slipped the two o rings and secured the fuel line.

    It is not leaking , as I had the car runnIng for some time. But have not driven it yet.

    My question is, what was this black plastic ring and will it cause a problem with out it being there?

    See picture for clarification....I marked the black plastic ring with two arrows for ease of identification.

    Will this cause some problem when driving ?

    Thanks in advance for your thoughts....
     

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  2. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    I would believe that the "black plastic ring" is what spring loads the connection. Think of it as a sort of crush/spring loader.

    It is not leaking at this time because the yellow o-ring is sealing it. But after a while, with road vibration and no spring load to it, that fuel line will move in and out and prematurely wear out that yellow o-ring and eventually leak.

    That is my $.02, maybe someone else here can second my thoughts or give more detail. But I am pretty sure that is what gives the connection it's axial tightness to help the o-ring from moving in and out due to materials swelling and retracting from temps, vibrations and fuel pressure differentials, etc allowing that yellow 0-ring to seal for the life of the filter.

    Usually, those three parts (white nylon 0-ring, yellow rubber/neoprene 0-ring, black rubber loader) should have stayed in the fuel filter spring lock coupling. The white nylon ring is merely a spacer, the yellow o-ring is what seals the deal, the "black plastic ring" is your spring loader to prevent any movement once the lock has engaged over the filter locking lip.

    Try installing them in the coupling first and then snapping it on the filter. If that doesn't work, you may need a fuel repair line kit which will have all that already installed for you. Here is a link to what I mean.

    http://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fuel-line-connector/dorman-fuel-line-connector/331859_0_0
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2017
  3. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Can you show us a picture of the spring lock coupling on the car?
     
  4. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    So as I wrote before, this was your mistake.

    The more I think about this, the more I think you will be better off buying a new coupling. They are relatively cheap and easy to install.

    As you can see in this snapshot, the site states it fits your car and has the 90% angle you need for OEM install. You will also may need to buy brass unions and fuel injection clamps depending on how your set up is. Screenshot (75).png
     
  5. nickb2

    nickb2 Wrench. I help when I can

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    Also, O-Reilly's has a vast selection of what you will need.

    I prefer pinch clamp to the screw type clamps. They work better on nylon tubing. Screenshot (76).png
     
  6. corcovado

    corcovado Jr. Member

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    Thanks for the reply... here's a picture of my fuel filter setup now, with no leaks (fingers crossed)
     

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  7. corcovado

    corcovado Jr. Member

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    Here's another pic of the fuel line after the elbow connector.
    Any Thoughts appreciated.
     

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  8. billr

    billr wrench Staff Member

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    I'm a bit confused. In your previous post (with three pictures) you said "here it is now", but the third picture shows things horribly rusted near that elbow.

    Regardless, I would leave the existing elbow there if there is no obvious sign of wear or damage to it. Fit all the seal parts back into it and then try connecting to the filter, as suggested. Use a little bit of lube in the old girl (the elbow socket), you may get more joy that way...
     
  9. corcovado

    corcovado Jr. Member

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    Hi, thanks for the reply. That picture was a before photo, and the only photo I have of the elbow with the connection to the rest of the fuel line. ( I'd have to jack up the car and take a better picture, but I can't right now, as it's raining.)

    Luckily, it hasn't leaked, even after a short ride, but I don't feel comfortable without that little black plastic ring in there.
     
  10. corcovado

    corcovado Jr. Member

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    Advice needed please...
    Nickb2 was kind enough to provide me with Dorman 800-172
    My local parts store says that is not applicable to my car. Dorman tech support (twice) is trying to tell me I need a steel line. ( which I know is wrong)

    Can someone please clarify this for me before I take the car apart?

    I assume the hose is 5/16 but not sure.

    Thank you in advance
     
  11. billr

    billr wrench Staff Member

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    You don't like my idea about just using the existing parts? If it isn't leaking now, without the black thingy, chances are it will be fine once Blackie is back in there.
     
  12. jd

    jd Hero Member

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    The line size is 5/16-inch. Ford started quick change filters with "duck bill" clips, and that's what you have at the end with the elbow. A new O-ring and new duck bill retaining clip (the white forked piece) should set it straight for you. You could also get an automotive O-Ring by matching your old one up at a place like NAPA. Then re-use the duck bill by putting it back then holding in place with a ZIP Tie.
    Then, Ford went with "garter spring" types like they've done for years on air conditioning lines. That's what you have on the other end, the straight end. You need a disconnect tool for that. Let me offer a picture:
    [​IMG]

    My release tool looks sorta like scissors, with 3/8" release at one end and 5/16" on the other. The larger, upper filter is from the Duck Bill Days. The lower one is for Garter Springs. I put Duck Bills where the quick disconnect coupler (Garter or Duck Bill) goes. What I want you to see, is that the smaller, lower filter allows space for the Disconnect Tool to get between Filter and Connector to release the Garter Spring. The UPPER filter WILL connect to Garter Spring couplers, BUT you'll play hell when you go to disconnect it for work or replacement. Probably have to cut the tube off at the filter to hold with pliers while you diddle with the tool and try to get it into the connector.
    I haven't seen a Ford product with both kinds of connectors on the same filter, till your pix.
     
  13. corcovado

    corcovado Jr. Member

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    Thank you all for the replies. As billr suggested, I removed the connector, and after some fiddling around, got the black plastic thing to go back in there and now, , so far, it hasn't leaked, thanks again everyone.
     

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