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non running poulan self propelled

  1. 20170623_102258.jpg 20170623_102455.jpg 20170623_102522.jpg I screwed up and accidentally posted in open discussion what i should of posted here: poulan self propelled model # pr55hy21ca mower had sat in someones garage for probably a long time without ever being used. I got a real clean air filter, clean spark plug that produces spark ( used spark tester ) i have started by shooting some carb cleaner in it and it a run a couple of seconds until the carb fluid is spent. I would like to remove carburetor but not sure how the linkage is removed. Perhaps if i remove the small fuel line i can get the carb at an angle that will allow me to pull linkage out. I will post pics later today. my question is in how to remove carb without linkage and what things to look for to identify a possible problem and how to properly do a cleaning. forgot to add that its a honda engine 5.5 GVC 160
  2. I included pics to show just what i have removed only and to show a pic of the linkage to carb i ran a paper clip through a small hole in cylider shaped piece ( dont know the propet name )
  3. Okay, the pictures give me some idea of what you are talking about.

    Yes, remove the fuel line so you can get that beast loose and work on it. Even if you can get the linkage off with the fuel line in place, you aren't going to get good access to the carb with the fuel line still attached...

    Is the anything on the other side of that angled bowl screw? If not, it is probably just a plug so they could use up old bowls. There often used to be adjustable jets in locations like that, but I think the EPA has forbidden those in recent (after your '95) years.

    The hole you reamed with the paper clip looks like a non critical one, so probably no problem, but resist the urge to do that at every small hole you see. Many are precision fuel-metering devices and just small changes or scratches/burrs to the hole ID can ruin the carb. Use compressed air only. If there seems to be hard residue use, um... carb cleaner. Or that nasty Berryman "Chemtool" stuff.
  4. Got fuel flow to the inside of the bowl? If gas is in the tank and any kind of fuel shut-off valve it set to "open, on, flow. etc", and the bowl has been removed so that the float cannot float, fuel should flow freely down and out of the float/needle/seat area. Does it? If it does not, that is the time to remove the hose from the carb to see if fuel will flow out the hose.
  5. Yes i have fuel flow to bowl could the float be functioning imroperly to where theres too much fuel? I am trying to look further into the carb having a potential problem
  6. Billr i was told by someone that maintains service for rural king that the screw on the angled side of the bowl was so that you could drain fuel out of it without having to remove that bowl and just only remove the srew so i guess thats it s purpose
  7. Too much fuel would not be the issue if the engine runs briefly when you spray the carb cleaner into it. A typical simple carb has two ways to introduce fuel into the airstream that the engine is sucking into the engine through the carb. Idle circuit (small) and Main circuit (Bigger). Imagine the the engine has a tiny straw to suck suck fuel up and out of the bowl for idle, and a big straw for main. Find the little straw (and, it might not look like a straw, but just like a straw it has a passage through it with a beginning and end) and make sure you can spray (carb cleaner?) through it.
    Here's a clue...the passage (straw) will have an entrance down in the bowl where the gas is, and an exit up in the airstream going through the carb.
  8. The passage I said you need to check, is straight up the middle of that center part of the carburetor body. Threaded internally for the fastener you used to remove the bowl. The "center part" is resting on the yellow belt cover in your pictures. Have you made sure that the float drops and rises easily, and the needle valve moves with it?
  9. Problem was :fixed: once i cleaned carb