One touch power window quit

norman52

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#1
Make
Cadillac
Model
SRX
Year
2010
Miles
70,000
Engine
3.0
I have a 2010 Cadillac SRX premium with one touch power windows. Recently the passenger side window doesn't go up or down with one touch. It will go up or down 2 inches at a time every time you touch the power window switch only, so you have to hit the switch about 20 times to open or close the window. The drivers side works fine.
I don't know if I am looking for a relay or what. I have a set of factory Shop Manuals for it but it doesn't address the issue at least as far as I can figure out.
Someone said to try running the window all the way closed and then hold the switch in the up position for 10 seconds to reset the memory but i tried that and nothing changed. I thought I would post it on here and pick the brains of the mechanics that really know. Can anyone help?
 
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#2

norman52

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#3
It is definitely mechanical as it is an exact measured amount time after time up or down. A resistance in the track wouldn't give me the repeat ability
 

nickb2

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#4
My opinion, power window motor is drawing to many amps and tripping the circuit breaker. If you can get your hands on an amp claw meter, you could confirm my suspicion.

I don't know if your familiar with wiring diagram symbols, but in the following snapshot of your "premium" ride, you will notice a circuit breaker right below each and every power window motor. To confirm this, use the amp claw, as most mulitimeters only have a 10 amp fuse, and a power window trips right below at 25 amps or so to protect the circuit and will fry your multimeter. So anything that can read above 30 amps is good. An amp claw is best as you can test right at the door harness while you activate said problem window.

My suspicion, you need a new P/W motor. On your car/truck, your system is rated for 30 amps for each side.

However, I would not discount what mobile dan wrote, and find it would be ignorant to assume that is not your problem.

First, lubricate the tracks to make sure that is not what is binding up the window causing a massive amp spike tripping the C/B.

Once you have determined that the window is NOT binding anywhere, and you have followed my advice by getting a reading of what amp draw IS when window is OPERATING, then we will help you further. I will provide you with tips on how to dismantle that, as GM likes rivets everywhere, they can be a biatch to remove and replace. The circuit breaker is not in the logic board, but is PART of the motor itself and NOT serviceable. See snapshot below if you don't understand, you will see I am sure this is your problem if and when you follow dans advice and your sure all is free sliding.

Screenshot (178).png
 

norman52

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#5
So does the circuit breaker trip and reset instantly? The window goes up or down in 2inch increments as fast as I can hit the button which is why I am asking how fast the circuit breaker resets.
I have a Fluke 362 multimeter with claw. I will double check if it can measure 30 Amps DC
 

nickb2

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#6
It is definitely mechanical as it is an exact measured amount time after time up or down. A resistance in the track wouldn't give me the repeat ability
This is false, if it is drawing constant above spec amps, it will trip at exact same intervals/time as the circuit breaker is designed to do so.

If the BCM saw a short circuit in there, it would simply deactivate the whole circuit via bus line to protect the BCM module.

If you really don't want to get an amp claw to check that, just install a 30amp fused jumper wire between the 12v drive circuit, I bet that fuse will "pop" confirming my suspicion. But that involves removing the door trim and such. I simply use an amp claw. Easier and way more cost effective when I disgnose these VERY COMMON problems.

Also, if there was a power window reset to be done due to a power loss or something, such as in a lexus and other so called high end crap, it would affect ALL windows.

I am not saying your ride is crap. My sister just bought a used lexus on my begging to do so cuz I love toyota products. But basically, her lexus is just a camry on steroids. Your SRX is just a run of the mill GM SUV on roids also, and I would bet the same motor is in there for a low end car of this type of line up and electrical design.

Take an enclave for example, they don't sell the front P/W motor separately, they sell the whole regulator. But I am sure it is of same design. Cadillac, on a happy note, sells the actual motor separately.
 

nickb2

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#7
So does the circuit breaker trip and reset instantly?
That depends on design. First start by lubricating what you can.

Your fluke can go to 200DC amps, so no problem at all. Mine goes to 600dc, so I can check diesel starters with huge amp draw and such, but that is for another thread.

Normally, it should reset pretty quickly. But for quick doagnostic purposes, without ripping anything apart, just throw the clamp around a bat cable or the actual door harness and observe amp draw. If you see it spiking anywhere near 25amps, you need a new motor. Try each and every other window, observe spike. You will see it is noticeably lower.
 

norman52

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#8
I just got a reply back from GM. They said to replace the motor as my symtoms are a common accurance on the SRX..
I can find OE AC Delco for around $60.
Thanks guys for all the suggestions.
 

nickb2

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#9
The 30 amp fuse is only there to prevent circuit damage in case of a short. The circuit breaker is there in case you try to open the window when it is, for example, frozen. You can still use the window once it has thawed as the circuit breaker prevented it from going to 30 amps.

If not, every one would be at my shop asking to replace fuses for such nonsense.

Essentially, you car thinks it has a frozen window. Which in essence is the case. But in this case, the brushes in that motor are so burned or corroded, they are tripping the C/B.

I hope I am making sense to you and not sounding condescending.
 

nickb2

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#10
Well, this is where I like to say I told you so, but this is my bread and butter. I make a good living of quick diagnostics, but never underestimate the power of good lubrication. I know my GF approves of my methods. :p
 

nickb2

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#11
But just for kicks, and for the purpose of this thread. Can you at least use your fluke at tell us at what amp it is tripping?

Would be good for anybody else who may fall on this thread. I know these cars/trucks are plagued with this, as confirms your response direct from GM national headquarters.
 

norman52

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#12
I appreciate all the help. I just didnt understand how the one touch up or down worked. I thought perhaps it was a relay but I couldn't find one in the schematics. I just didnt want to buy a motor if it really was an $8 relay. $60 and a couple of hours is cheaper Than the Usual Royal Purple oil and Filter change. Now that I know the vorrect direction it is full speed ahead.
 

nickb2

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#13
Actually, there are relays, but they are micro relays in the driver door module, BCM, etc or wherever the company could be cost effective and render the vehicle not serviceable like back in the 70's.

In your case, I juct checked, your front door regulator is not riveted. Which is good news for you.
 

nickb2

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#14
And yes, there is a relearn for your windows. If for some reason they are misaligned or something like that. Much like my sisters lexus.

You will need to do that as you will be disconecting the motor and such. Here is how to do that.

See ace 0 pdf below, just download it.
 

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#15
Circuit nickb2 is showing is using all mechanical switches, some of this newer stuff is using the BCM to prevent the driver and the passenger from having opposite views on whether that window should be up or down, reverses the polarity to the motor, and without that lockout, smoke will occur.

88 Supra is this way was working fine until about two years ago. Just pulled both switches and cleaned the contacts, working fine again. Passenger was easy, but really had to be awake when taking the drivers side switch apart where all the interlocking switches are.

When you first hit the switch, motor is stalled and get what is call an arcing contact, but when it speeds up current decreases, motor stops. May or may not be your problems, but just thought I would throw it in. Ha, try to find a replacement switch for an 88 Supra. If your motor was bad, would not do anything.