Outlook Acadia Traverse...best way to remove engine

billr

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#32
It looks like that 3.6 LLT engine was used in quite a few different vehicles, including that Caddy. I wouldn't be too concerned about differences from what is on yours, GM was always pretty good about keeping things the same; especially where a later engine (model year) is being used in place of an older one. I think in this case, though, the "LLT" distinguishes this particular variant of that engine line; all should be the same.
 

teehee

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#33
I have the two engines side by side and everything looks the same except for bolt on accesories that need to be swapped over.
 

jd

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#34
Glad my concern doesn't appear to be real. By the way, the pic showing the Traverse body looks good. A vehicle worth fixing if you don't have to pay commercial labor rates!
 

teehee

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#35
Yes, it’s a pretty decent vehicle all around, definitely worth saving. Of course if I had to take this somewhere for repair it would probably cost more than half of the vehicles value.
Any suggestions on factory rebuild manual? I found some online for $300 a set, but that’s a lot of money to use one time. Would a Haynes manual be sufficient? I can afford $20, lol
 

billr

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#36
Haynes seems to be "least respected" from what I have heard. How about a subscription to Alldata? Most engine rebuilding is common-sense coupled with consulting a good machine shop.
 

teehee

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#38
Well I finally got some time to get back on this project! Thank god I have something else to drive in the meantime. The 2011 camaro donor engine appears to be in much better overall condition and considering it has 60k fewer miles than the outlook engine, it should. I’m going to replace one head and of course new timing chain set and gaskets, what else should I be concerned with before I button it back up? Was thinking about water pump, oil pump, possibly rear main seal? What’s the best way I can clean the head and block, without complete disassembly? It’s got the gunky sludge that these engines are known for.
 

jd

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#39
I'd sure do anything now that would require pulling the engine again later! Rear Seal(s?) for sure. I don't know where the Oil Pump is, but if it's buried deep, probably. Water pump, sure. I'm not sure they store well.
Why ONE head? I'd always heard if you need one, do both. Others'll have a better idea on that than I.
The Buick I mentioned a zillion threads ago, was sludged up with that cinder-like gook certain oils used to deposit. I had to dig it out with a scraper then a wire brush after I softened it up with spray Brake Cleaner. Probably damaged my brain in the process, working under that Centrury with the engine still in-frame. There's clear evidence (lost my mind!) of that damage...
 

teehee

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#40
One head had one cam bearing cap cracked on the intake side...the other head looks great! I can get a good low mileage complete head for about $200, I can get a rebuilt head for about $350. Didn’t think it would be necessary to replace both, but would definitely like to hear from you guys on that. The oil pump is mounted behind the crankshaft chain sprocket, so I guess it’s pretty buried, however I don’t know if the oil pumps are known to fail early on these. Also would love to hear if anyone has heard anything about that. I did think about brake cleaner or diesel, kerosene, mineral spirits, etc., at least it’s on an engine stand so much easier than it was laying under your Buick, lol.
 
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billr

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#41
I would take the engine completely apart, including the other ("good") head to inspect everything. Did the other cam not lose timing? I think you mentioned this is 3-chain drive, so maybe that is possible. However, if the other head lost timing then it seems impossible some damage wasn't done.
 

jd

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#42
at least it’s on an engine stand so much easier than it was laying under your Buick, lol.
Believe me, I wanted to flip that Buick OVER at several points in the project. And yes, there are a number of ways to interpret that, all probably correct.

Remembering another project, a little Toyota Tercel with stuck rings... I pulled Head and had it reconditioned, dropped Pan to pop the Pistons out. Did NOT disturb the Mains. The "chain store/big box" auto supplies have Bearing Sets. What I learned, at least with Toyota, was each Rod (and Main) set of Bearing Caps is coded to its specific Journal according to a Stamping that discloses its exact tolerance. So a 5-bearing crank doesn't have 5 identical bearing sets. Might have 5... This was over 15 years ago, so I don't remember if they said the USA manufacturers were doing the same or not.

I offer this to help you be cautious of an "engine overhaul kit" that includes all the parts at much less cost than individually. Be sure the right fits are there, too.

Oh... Can't re-use bearing sleeves even if undamaged. The torquing crushes them into place and that's a one-shot deal.
 

teehee

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#43
Alrighty, I’m about ready to put this baby back together! I’m open to any words of encouragement, advice or warnings. I decided to re-ring, new bearings and heads inspected at machine shop. I bought all name brand parts...gaskets, timing set, bearings, rings, water pump and oil pump. Would an alldata subscription help me with all the torque specs, etc., or would a Haynes manual suffice?
 
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#44
I would go with Alldata for sure. So many other questions may arise...Alldata has WAY more info. And while you have the subscription, print off any pages you think may be helpful if the subscription expires.
 

teehee

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#45
Well thanks to all that offered their wisdom and advice....I ended up replacing the engine. I got a steal of a deal on an 09 low mile Cadillac CTS engine. Had to swap timing cover, oil pan, exhaust and intake manifolds. I was able to do the job without an overhead lift...in my driveway! Started right up, no lights, no leaks, no issues!!! I do have another problem unrelated to the engine but pertains to the vehicle that I’m starting a new post for.