Ram Hemi ... issues... please help!

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#1
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MAKE: Dodge Ram
MODEL: SLT 1500 4x4 quadcab
YEAR: 2007
MILES: 77,000
ENGINE: 5.7 Hemi
DESCRIBE ISSUE....
Hello, new here. So I just bought my 07 hemi with 77k on it. I noticed when I put it on the lift that the drivers side front axle has side to side play. Not up & down or around. Just east & west, at the wheel side of the axle. Not where it goes into the case. It has about an inch of movement in & out... is this normal? It also likes to skate a little when I hit a bumpy section of road. It's not the death wobble, but it's a slight skatey feeling. Steering is tight, wheels have no play when jacked up & moved top to bottom & side to side. Feel tight. Has a little groan when I hit a dip too, sounds like front shocks going up & down. I think it needs new struts & shocks. It has only done the vibrating thing 3 times in 5 hours of driving. Did not really transfer into the steering wheel but I looked over & saw the passenger seat vibrating. Then it stops after about a minute. I've searched & been watching videos on both of these symptoms. Most of the cv stuff is all around play instead of strictly side to side. And most people talk about the death wobble, which I have not experienced. Perhaps someone here could shed light, so i know what I need to buy & repair! Thanks in advance!
 

billr

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I read that over several times, but still am not understanding what is moving.

Not the wheel, correct? The brake rotor/caliper would prevent that from moving side-to-side much, certainly far less than an inch.

And, "not where it goes into the case"; so what is left? Are there two CV joints? That would be three "shafts", case to inboard CV, between the CVs, and outboard CV to wheel hub. Which is it? (I call them CVs, may be U-joints, same thing for now...)
 
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The wheels don't have movement. Just the axle, although with the wheel turned it was hard for me to get it to move like I can with the front wheels straight instead of turned like they are here... it's where the axle goes into the hub was what I meant.

Here are some pictures, by just looking at this what should I replace, it came from Tennessee so they have a little salt on the roads it shows, I might need bushings & lower balljoints too, even though there's no balljoint play... it seems awful dirty down there, I know it needs struts at very least..
 

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billr

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Usually there is a large nut that secures that outer-most shaft to the hub; remove the wheel-cover/hub-cap and it should be obvious. (Post a picture?) That needs to be quite tight, probably in the 150+ lb-ft range. And, it may be what controls the bearing pre-load, so may be critical for bearing life and tightness.
 
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Usually there is a large nut that secures that outer-most shaft to the hub; remove the wheel-cover/hub-cap and it should be obvious. (Post a picture?) That needs to be quite tight, probably in the 150+ lb-ft range. And, it may be what controls the bearing pre-load, so may be critical for bearing life and tightness.
Yes, I should have mentioned that's the first thing I checked, the big nut after removing the wheels Center cap. It was incredibly tight, definitely 150lbs worth.

Do you think I should replace some of those rubber bushings in the pictures to improve the poor ride quality along with new shocks & struts?
 

billr

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The rubber parts look OK. They aren't that old, and don't suffer from salt damage. If that outer shaft is sliding in-out at the hub, then I would remove that big nut and re-torque, to make sure it is "tight" and nut just "stuck". At the same time, I would probably be inspecting the wheel bearings, maybe one is so damaged that the nut can't possibly tighten it up. Point is, 1" is a lot, something is quite wrong in that area; time to pull it apart.

Again, more pictures could help, I'm not familiar with that specific vehicle.
 

nickb2

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#8
I think the term I am looking for is called axial movement or axial end play.

If that is the case on the outer cv joint and it has axial movement of 1 inch inside the hub splines, that is very very excessive, beyond unsafe. That hub nut, which should be 36mm is essentially what is holding the entirety of the hub, disk, caliper, pads, wheel and tire assembly.

Travel on the inner cv joint can tolerate and is designed for that amount of travel, but not the outer cv joint.

To remove the half shaft, simply remove the 36mm nut with a deep impact socket, remove the caliper bolts and set caliper aside supported with adequate straps or some mechanics wire. Remove the 18mm bolts holding the brake pad support to knuckle. Remove the upper and lower ball joints. Keep the tie rod attached.

Btw, if equipped with ABS, remove the small allen bolt holding the sensor in place onto the hub and GENTLY pry it out and set aside.

The half shaft can now be removed from the knuckle to inspect for bearing damage, outer cv joint damage etc.

No need to remove any bushings from the upper and lower control arms if the do not have any play when pried with a pry bar.

If once the upper an lower balljoints are disconnected from the knuckle, and you feel they are tender or loose, I highly recommend paying a bit extra for the upper and lower control arms as the come assembled with new bushings and balljoints.

You will save time and money in the long run and have new bushings all around.

Example.

I am seeing lower control arms from mevotech going for almost the same price as a lone moog balljoint. I like moog, but must say I have installed mevotech products with good success. They are greasable and with some up keep and attention, a mevotech part will do well if properly greased and installed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mevotech-CM...Ball-Joint-Dodge-Ram-1500-06-15-/162273724898

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k7467

So, my guess is, that of only the ball joint is 77 $, and the whole control arm is around is around 110$, I would certainly suggest a plug and play solution here.
 

nickb2

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#9
Just today, I repaired two dodge ram 1500's. One was a 2011, the other one, like yours, a 2008.

I replaced on both trucks the front right half shafts. I change half shafts gallore lately since staring work here in the great north.

This afternoon, I went a bit more into it with the 2008 pick up, I changed the left outer tie rod, right front inner tie rod, and sway bar bushings. All moog. Half shafts were mevotech I beleive for both trucks. But beware, the new 36mm nut that comes with a new half shaft is shorter than the OEM nut and does not come with a washer. So installing the old OEM nut is not a problem. Stay away from the new nut given in the box. It is BS. So I just re installed the old OEM nuts and all was good, actually prefferable to the el cheapo brass looking nut that came in the boxes. I prefer the oem nut as the washer is joined to the nut and seems to help set preload torque better than that chinsey nut provided. BTW, The half shaft nut torque is 185ft pnds, so a good burst of an impact gun should be suffice and don't fuss with a torque wrench. Just use the oem nut, it seems to limit itself.

For your truck, if I do understand correctly your original post, you are looking at a badly worn out CV shaft, or a badly worn out hub and nut or an amalgam of all three. This will also have caused stress and vibration to all other components, so be sure to check all joints with truck unloaded as Marine suggested.

Oh hey guy's, found a freebie in the snow today, a winchester gutting knife. Cool find. Funny what you find in the snow up here, the other day, a pair of westward adjustable pliers.

;)
 
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#11
Do you have a lift to put the truck on?
With the truck on a lift, and the suspension at fool droop, does the CV axle move out of the wheel hub?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Yeah, it does.

I think the term I am looking for is called axial movement or axial end play.

If that is the case on the outer cv joint and it has axial movement of 1 inch inside the hub splines, that is very very excessive, beyond unsafe. That hub nut, which should be 36mm is essentially what is holding the entirety of the hub, disk, caliper, pads, wheel and tire assembly.

Travel on the inner cv joint can tolerate and is designed for that amount of travel, but not the outer cv joint.

To remove the half shaft, simply remove the 36mm nut with a deep impact socket, remove the caliper bolts and set caliper aside supported with adequate straps or some mechanics wire. Remove the 18mm bolts holding the brake pad support to knuckle. Remove the upper and lower ball joints. Keep the tie rod attached.

Btw, if equipped with ABS, remove the small allen bolt holding the sensor in place onto the hub and GENTLY pry it out and set aside.

The half shaft can now be removed from the knuckle to inspect for bearing damage, outer cv joint damage etc.

No need to remove any bushings from the upper and lower control arms if the do not have any play when pried with a pry bar.

If once the upper an lower balljoints are disconnected from the knuckle, and you feel they are tender or loose, I highly recommend paying a bit extra for the upper and lower control arms as the come assembled with new bushings and balljoints.

You will save time and money in the long run and have new bushings all around.

Example.

I am seeing lower control arms from mevotech going for almost the same price as a lone moog balljoint. I like moog, but must say I have installed mevotech products with good success. They are greasable and with some up keep and attention, a mevotech part will do well if properly greased and installed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mevotech-CM...Ball-Joint-Dodge-Ram-1500-06-15-/162273724898

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k7467

So, my guess is, that of only the ball joint is 77 $, and the whole control arm is around is around 110$, I would certainly suggest a plug and play solution here.
Wow, thank you for such a detailed response. Very helpful & I saved all you said for later reference when I get to business.

I will also say I can hear something up there when I hit a bump, on the side were talking about here.. makes a "wubwub" sound when dipping into the road or a bump. My abs light & brake light has also came on inside the truck going down the highway & went off after about 15 minutes. I'd say it has something to do with what's going on in that wheel hub. At this point I'm thinking new cv axles & wheel hub assemblies would be a safe bet. Thanks for the link on those control arms, being I'll be putting new struts on, that will also be a good time to do this all. The noise definitely bothers me, doesn't have to be a big bump, just a dip & it'll make that wubwub sound in the front left...
 
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#12
Just today, I repaired two dodge ram 1500's. One was a 2011, the other one, like yours, a 2008.

I replaced on both trucks the front right half shafts. I change half shafts gallore lately since staring work here in the great north.

This afternoon, I went a bit more into it with the 2008 pick up, I changed the left outer tie rod, right front inner tie rod, and sway bar bushings. All moog. Half shafts were mevotech I beleive for both trucks. But beware, the new 36mm nut that comes with a new half shaft is shorter than the OEM nut and does not come with a washer. So installing the old OEM nut is not a problem. Stay away from the new nut given in the box. It is BS. So I just re installed the old OEM nuts and all was good, actually prefferable to the el cheapo brass looking nut that came in the boxes. I prefer the oem nut as the washer is joined to the nut and seems to help set preload torque better than that chinsey nut provided. BTW, The half shaft nut torque is 185ft pnds, so a good burst of an impact gun should be suffice and don't fuss with a torque wrench. Just use the oem nut, it seems to limit itself.

For your truck, if I do understand correctly your original post, you are looking at a badly worn out CV shaft, or a badly worn out hub and nut or an amalgam of all three. This will also have caused stress and vibration to all other components, so be sure to check all joints with truck unloaded as Marine suggested.

Oh hey guy's, found a freebie in the snow today, a winchester gutting knife. Cool find. Funny what you find in the snow up here, the other day, a pair of westward adjustable pliers.

;)
I took some more pictures after I changed all the plugs the other night in the shop & gave it an oil change, pit the proper oil in there. It just seems like it saw alot of salt which I'm sure hastened some of these issues under here... here are some more views that may be of assistance on visually helping make the call on what should be replaced... 20161113_233315.jpg 20161113_231357.jpg 20161113_231557.jpg 20161113_231405.jpg 20161113_231525.jpg 20161113_231537.jpg 20161113_233315.jpg