removing rear brake drums 2005 escape

Discussion in 'Domestics' started by billj, Sep 16, 2012.

  1. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    2005 Escape front wheel drive, rear drum brakes. 84,000 miles. I am trying to remove the rear drums from my Escape. First I wire brushed all the rust away from the center hub. Then I used the tap between the studs method. Then PB Blaster and the same tap method, then heat from a propane torch and the same tap method. Then my taps became more aggresive. My Ford workshop manual says if the drums do not come off easily to tap between the studs. It states not to use heat or a puller to prevent distortion. I did use my propane torch wich is not a lot of heat in my book. I have been tapping for over an hour. I should mention when I replaced the front disk and pads a few months ago I had to use a puller along with tapping to get the disk off. It appears on the front disk and rear drums it is the area under the disk/drum that is rusting and causing the problem. Any ideas? My next move is to use a puller, but I do not have much room behind the drum and backing plate.
     
  2. Jim Fairbanks

    Jim Fairbanks wrench

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    Hey Bill...it should have a plug in the back where you can back the shoes off to get the drum off..if it is hanging up on the shoes...if it is not hanging up on the brake shoes I would get more aggressive with it....LOL....Jim
     
  3. al daniels

    al daniels wrench

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    hey bill,you have to hit the drum on the outside corner,not the face where the studs are.if the drum is not loose you have to hit it hard,and i mean hard.if you hit it on the corner you will not damage the drum.a propane torch doesnt have enough heat to help you if the drum is not breaking loose with a hit.you need oxyacetylene and have to heat it around the center where the axle flange comes thru the drum.that is where they seize.if the drum did come loose but wont come all the way off then you have to deadjust the rear brakes.
     
  4. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    It is not hanging up on the shoes, that I am sure of. It does not even try to move. I did try hitting the outside corner a couple times. What are the chances of breaking the drum by hitting it too hard and /or the wrong place?
     
  5. Mobile Dan

    Mobile Dan wrench

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    You might try using a punch to hit the drum about 1/8 inch from hub. This may loosen/pulverize rust that prevents drum from sliding off of hub.
     
  6. billr

    billr wrench Staff Member

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    Do you have an air-chisel, roto-hammer, or small jack-hammer? Try using that against the flat surface (between the studs, like you were doing at first), that might bust the rust loose. Cushion the sharp tip of the tool with a piece of steel scrap to keep from gouging the drum.
     
  7. al daniels

    al daniels wrench

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    hitting the flat surface can damage the drum.ive used a 2lb sledge and hit it as hard as i could and in over 30 years ive never broken one yet.if you have an oxyacetylene outfit,heat it red hot around the centre and smoke it good with the hammer.
     
  8. NickD

    NickD wrench

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    Anti-seized the rotors and drums on my then new 04 Cavalier when it was brand new, at 60K removed them with my fingers. Wasn't done on my kid's 00 Taurus, used a large three jaw puller to break them free after cleaning most of the rust off that center hub. Didn't care if they broke or not, just did not want to wreck the hub bearing.

    [​IMG]

    New drums for his were 24 bucks at Fleet Farm, yours would be 20 bucks. For 20 bucks, didn't want to spend the rest of my life cleaning the old ones. Plus the fact, they now want 15 bucks to turn the old drums. They don't arch the linings anymore, have to do that by hand or drive it a very long time with poor brakes until the center of the shoe wears down. With new shoes and drums, get good brakes from the start.

    Did spend time cleaning the old hubs and anti-seized those as well, they have to be clean for proper alignment, but not sure why I anti-seized them, should be good for the life of his car. But was tempted to tell him to spend another couple hundred bucks for new hubs.

    I have quite a collection of hammers over the years, used those for tearing down old barns, smashing a stump, on a car for body work. Or even pounding nails, but never on hub bearings. Just my means of getting a job done.

    Would be nice on a brand new car, they would also use anti-seize, but then, they want you to trade it off for a new one in a couple of years.
     
  9. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    Ok, this weekend I am going to try using my PB Blaster, a 2 lb sledge, and a three armed puller. I used the puller to get the front disks off. Just enough pressure so that the puller was good and tight and a few good wacks with a hammer, and off they came. I do not have an oxyacetylene outfit at home, but I do at work. If I don't have any luck this weekend I'll take it to work and torch it. Another trick I have used (that did not work with the propane torch this time on the drums) is to heat the drum and then put a handful of ice onto the hub. Wear welding gloves or use a couple thick rags. I did this on my Ford Ranger and it worked like a charm. The drums popped right off.
     
  10. al daniels

    al daniels wrench

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    good trick bill.using the puller with a good smack might just do the trick if you dont put too much tension with the puller.i like the ice thing too.
     
  11. NickD

    NickD wrench

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    Spent over two hours removing the LF rotor from my kid's 2000 Taurus, found a small hole in the rear of it I could squeeze my air hammer in. Was packed full of rust and so was I when I finally got it off. Tossed that rotor in the trashcan and was tempted to join it, but decided to clean myself up.

    This has been a long history with Fords, even worse than GM if that is possible. Recall my brother-in-laws brand new 82 T-bird, wanted help putting on mud flaps. Couldn't even remove the RR wheel was rusted on so bad. He took it to his dealer, had to replace the entire rear end, they couldn't remove it either.
     
  12. billj

    billj MR BILL

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    fixed OK, I got the rear drums off. Sprayed the hub and lugs with PB Blaster, gave it a dozen good raps with a 2 lb mallet, some more PB, and then put on my three armed puller and started rapping the drum while I slowly applied pressure (pull) with the puller. I did not put a lot of force on the drum with the puller, rapped a dozen times around the drum, a little more pressure, rapped, and so on. It took about 10 minutes per drum to get them off this way, and then pop! off they came. I cleaned off as much rust as I could off the hub flange and the inside of the drum with a wire brush, cleaned those surfaces with brake cleaner, and then put on a coating of anti-seize. I wish I had used some anti-seize when I replaced the front rotors a few month ago, I guess I could pull them off....we'll see. Anyway as always, I have learned a lot. This time about removing brake drums. BAT to the rescue!
     
  13. al daniels

    al daniels wrench

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    glad you got it bill.
     

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