Son managed to change the drive belt on his LTX-1040 Cub Cadet.

Ha, called me every five minutes, owners manual said special tools are required take it to your dealer. First off, dealer wants 40 bucks for a belt, than maybe another hundred bucks to change it. He never got that far.

The front engine driven pulley has to be removed, maybe where that special tool is required to hold that pulley, said it had a 5/8" hex nut on it. Asked me about coming over with my impact wrench, sorry not condition to do that now. But said had the same problem with changing the timing belt on my Supra, and even with an impact wrench could not loosen that harmonic balancer bolt because of lack of space.

So I took a piece of 600 pound rope had laying around, wrapped that around that pulley opposite to the rotation for removing that bolt and tied that off to the frame. Like a Chinese puzzle, the more I turned my breaker bar, the tighter that rope became, finally broke loose, did the opposite to torque the bolt. That also worked for him. Is a double pulley 2" on top for the drive, 6" on the bottom for the mower drive. Had to be removed because a real tight belt guide was used and was welded on. Told him on the two riders I had, used to use two bolts to hole that guide on. Also made the comment, when I sold those two riders, that was the happiest day of my life.

Got him to remove the two clutch pulleys held with a bolt, nut and lock washer, removing the entire clutch was told, two complicated. He went ahead on his own to install the new belt on the differential first, but was blocked by an extra reverse drive belt. But by doing that had problems installing that front pulley, due to that angle, belt is too short. Asked him how short is was, said about an eighth of an inch, use a screwdriver to pry it on, after several tries he finally got it on. Said he his fingers were all cut up by trying to install those clutch pulleys. That rang a bell about all that sharp sheet metal every place on these darn things.

Started this project in the morning, was done at night with a ton of phone calls. Then we discussed why his old belt wore out so quick, said he was rough with that clutch. Told him always to slow the engine down before engaging that clutch, those stupid belt tensioners really wear out the belt quick with that pulley spinning inside the belt.

Said, don't you wish you had your dealer to this, yet another problem, would have to get a trailer and haul that to him. Just sounds like since I purchased mine, not only charging over three times the price for these things, but even making them more miserable to work on.

Do think about moving back to the country again, but thinking about getting another rider is a good deterrent. Another deterrent is the DNR is insisting on having a holding tank for sewage and even putting a water meter on your well and showing matching receipts for paying to have your tank emptied. City charges three times as much to process that sewage than city rates.

So what little you save on property tax bills is more than made up with sewage bills. Don't do perk tests any more, but take some of your soil and have it chemically analyzed.
You need at least a 20 power stereo microscope with an overhead light source to see that film. But it is there, blasting it with choke and carb cleaner gets the job done, and has to be done more than once. In particular if the engine sits awhile. Also should use ethanol free gas in these things, corrosion really becomes a problem.