Spark Plug Removal Aluminum Heads

PC

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#1
Make
Ford
Model
Fusion
Year
2007
Miles
113000
Engine
3.0L Duratec V-6
Needed to change what I believe were the original plugs in this 113,000 mi. Fusion V-6. After reading some horror stories removing plugs in the Triton motor, I was somewhat apprehensive to tackle these for fear of tearing up the threads in the head. Found a Ford document online for the Triton, so figured, what the heck. Took quite a bit of torque to crack them loose and they would not turn easily then sprayed carburetor cleaner in the plug tube as I understand it is carbon that prevents the plug from loosening. After 15 min. kept working the plug back and forth until it backed out. A few needed a second squirt of carb cleaner and a bit more time. Installed the new plugs with a light coating of anti-sieze with a drop of oil and squeezed some Motorcraft XG3-A in the coil boots. How does this procedure sound? Should I have done different?
 

grcauto

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#2
The Triton engines in the trucks were known for breaking off in the heads. I had the tool for extracting them and it paid for itself the first time I used it. Your engine dd not have that same kind of problem. You would not have problems from carbon like the Triton. Your removal process was good except you would have better used WD-40 or penetrating oil instead of carb cleaner. Also just a little anti-seize without oil and new wires.
 

billr

wrench
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#4
I use WD-40 sometimes because it is handy, but it is near-useless as a lubricant (even paint thinner is better!) If you don't have some "official" penetrating oil, use GM-type ATF, it migrates everywhere.

WD-40 was developed for protecting metal surfaces from rusting, and it works good for that. Whenever I do something that promotes rust on my milling machine, like machining PVC or using 70% alcohol for a cutting fluid, I wipe things down with the WD-40 and it does as intended, it acts as a "Water Displacement" agent and gets the moisture out of the metal surface to prevent rusting.