Recent content by grcauto

Have you looked at the fuel rail?

The only time these battery tests are accurate is when the test fails.

That test is not adequate. A load test will usually draw about 250 amps and see if it holds at 10.5 or above.

If it idles OK unplugged the sensor is bad. The MAF is a straight data. No learning.

Does it do that with the sensor unplugged?

That fail at key on tells us it's in the wiring or bad sensor. When the PCM sees a failed MAF circuit it will figure load based on TPS, VSS, RPM etc. It will usually run OK like that.

Load test the battery.

Are you having problems with the HVAC unit?

If I remember I think I used a power steering pump pulley puller or a steering wheel puller. One or the other will get it.

Fix the no start and then go after the leak. Does it crank?

Where are you losing B+?

That seal don't have a shoulder? Should be fine either way.

Sounds like they rebuilt the VB valve body.

I was thinking these were OBDII.

Did you guys flash the TCM and PCM?