Recent content by Gus

Basically, I would carry a can of carb cleaner with me....when it dies and won't start, I would spray carb cleaner into the intake and if it starts and runs as long as you spray, then you know you have good spark, but no fuel injection(since pressure is ok)..... You need a crank signal for...

I would drain the oil,.......I happen to have an inspection camera/borescope(have seen real cheap ones at Walmart for under $50, but you kind of get what you pay for).....would stick that in the drain opening, and see if I can find it....if found in the bottom of the pan, a small flexible...

All the gimmick does, is fool the ECM/PCM as far as O2 readings go, and keeps the P0420 from setting......if you have the exhaust gases tested for emissions, then it will fail, because the cat is no good....

Rule of thumb is, empty old compressor and measure oil..........if less than 2 oz., empty new one(some come full, some come empty), and add 2 oz. If old compressor has more than 2 oz., add the same amount to the new compressor....

Long ago, I remember a Lucerne coming in for a no start......checked fuel pressure, checked for spark, compression, injector pulse...all ok.....I was stumped.......I had a cold at the time and didn't notice the smell of the fuel... Then we heard, that the local gas station, had a delivery screw...

NickD, that problem was caused by a foam seal that would come loose, and jam the mode door(TSB on this)........the result was turning the mode knob, caused the cable to kink....

As I said before, in a good cat, the rear O2 sensor changes very slowly(could stay high or low, depending on whether the Cat is storing O2 or not), while the front changes constantly between .1 and .9 volts.........but when the rear, "mirrors" the front , the cat is not working........ Your...

Also watch the pre O2 sensor.......if it is not constantly changing, disconnect the MAF......if you get normal readings now, need a MAF...... You can also plot the pre and post O2 sensors.........If they mirror each other, that cat is not functioning....the pre should always be constantly...

NickD, the last time I mentioned 8track to someone, they looked at me like I had two heads......

Well, on older cars, I would say a vac problem......but you have an electrical mode actuator......so, either you have a bad control head, a bad actuator, wiring problem, or something has jammed your mode door.....there are a couple things you can do.... One remove the actuator, and physically...

Parlez vous francais, Nickb2? I think it's a case of you say toemaytoe, and I say tomahtoe.... @ Gus, Well, maybe that was a bad figure of speech, but yes, I have often seen a circuit grounding such as a 02 heater wire grounding out on frame instead of going through the PCM and other things...

I would be leaning towards a stuck relay.........or like Billr said, a short in the wiring in the control circuit to the relays(s)....or bad PCM(rare)... Nickb2....a bad ground causes a fuse to blow?

Well, have never seen a battery terminal melt....have seen acid leak, making it look like it melted....that butt connector you see going to the starter, is probably part of the campaign Nickb2 is referring to...... Electrical connections only melt, due to high resistance(bad...

The only time the CE light flashes, is when you have a misfire......need to read codes....need a scan tool to read "C" codes for the traction control....

Every GM car that I know, is wired this way......Main battery feed goes to the starter solenoid....off the same connection, a wire goes to the alternator through a fusible link....that is the large red wire attached to the alternator usually with a nut......