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CAmshaft seal has either self destructed or has been dislodged. I have seen both. Both will leak oil 1 qt every 10 miles.

This is most likely a head gasket or sender if leaking from rear. Sender is easy to eyeball. I have seen them lose their seal and leak quick. A 1998 had a organic head gasket from the factory and are notorious for leaking from upper driver side area where the oil feed is located in the block...

I replaced a solenoid pack that the base of the pack was warped. You can check with a machinist's straight edge. IMHO, get a new pack and gasket and be done with it.

BTW, I tow other cars with my Town and Country. Be light on the gas pedal and keep it in "3". The trans has 188K on it and still runs strong.

Yes....I am here! Been busy but stumbled on this. Diff's can be swapped out but there are two parameters that must be met. The differential itself has to be "pre-loaded" with a certain amount of "crush" by adjusting the select shim in the steel (not the aluminum extension) bearing cup, behind...

Agree with Jim.

MOST EXCELLENT, 1983!

Bonded pistons are updated where the lip seal is part of the piston itself. Since the trannies at the factory are assembled 100% by machines, not having to have a machine install the seals on the piston is one less step. Bonded pistons make the difference in production. In essence, you chuck...

I believe model year 1997 was the cut line for interference engine on the 3.5 liter.

Most excellent! Best wishes! Cheef

D*E*A*L*E*R! The lockset from dealer will be made in USA by Briggs and Stratton, as all American auto manufacturers locks are. Autozone will be a made in China knock off that won't fit and won't last. Just spend the $94 and be done with it. My two bits. Cheef

Amen. Starter.

DISCONNECT the 8 way solenoid block connector (rectangular black connector with single 8mm screw in middle) on the front/radiator side of the transmission and see what happens. You should have 2nd (in "D" "3" or "L") and Reverse in "R". If not, transmission is likely internally damaged and...

Pull the 8 way connector off the solenoid block (you CANNOT just change a solenoid, they are all in that big aluminum block radiator side of transmission) and clean connector and pins real good with some CRC electronic contact cleaner. The P0755 is generally an electrical issue, NOT a TCM...

"Not a hard job just time consuming and very tight work area...." unless you have hands of a five year old and semi rigid bones. You will also need a forcing cone to get the pulley back on the crankshaft. Long bolt with some washers and a nut might work if the bolt is high grade. The OTC kit...

With a P0700 there will be an associated trans code. You will need more than an auto-zone scanner. The converter bolts are not an issue right now as they would have dimpled the face of converter and cause the engine to cut off when you come to a stop. I would check the throttle position sensor...

Transman, Thanks for this article. My best friends girlfriend has a Jeep GC that she wanted me to service the trans. Fluid is clear, not burnt, but it is very old. I figure 120K on it with 180K on the odo. Her idiot brother, "the master mechanic" put 4 point Bosch POS platinums in it and she...

Gaskets will not generally work on any MoPar front wheel drive application transaxle. The bolt holes were spaced for RTV. Pull the leaky cover. Use brakleen to de-grease the mating surface on the housing. Smear a light coat of RTV on that surface. Rub a little extra on areas where the oil is...

Pull the plug out...you will get a little drizzle at best. You can use a bit of brakleen to clean the area. If you want, go to dealer and spend $6 on the MoPar Transmission RTV. It is designed to set up quickly in the presence of tranny fluid (BTW, it is superior sealer for ANY RTV application.)...

Most excellent! Best Wishes, Cheef