02 Honda Civic P0340

nickb2

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but if you leave it in case, wont work right cuz the case will retain heat and I found the cool down process three times is the best way that works for me. So just cook the pcb (printed circuit board) finally spelt that right.

Remember, this is NOT a lasagna
;)
 

KbarC

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I assume i need to remove the plastic around the pis that the connectors plugged into correct? Seems like too much hear for that
 

billr

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I would like to see a clearer picture of the back side of the board. When I zoom in to really look for problems, it gets too fuzzy.

If heating in the oven, I would keep down to 220C max. From what I read, that is commonly the max temp (look for "reflow soldering"), and it also sounds like 260C gets you near where the internal die of the ICs can suffer. Your kitchen oven is not a precision-calibrated device, so setting it for 250C would worry me. Preheat the oven, then put the board in for a few minutes and remove for cooling, don't leave it in there during the entire oven heat/cool cycle. Agreed, the plastic parts should be OK if you keep the heating to a minimum time.

Honestly, heating in an oven like that is too uncontrolled for my taste. I would rather inspect very carefully and only reflow suspicious joints, using an iron.
 

nickb2

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Honestly, heating in an oven like that is too uncontrolled for my taste. I would rather inspect very carefully and only reflow suspicious joints, using an iron.
Yeah, this is always the best way. I also use a heat gun with a good set of adapters to help concentrate where I know might have a cold solder joint fail.

But in cases such as a motherboard failure, I usually just cook.

Like I wrote before, most tech savy ppl cringe at what I link to sometimes, but hey, look at what they do in third world countries with less than a third of resources even I have on hand, and when they swamped with the mass junk we send them, they make the most wonderful educational videos I have ever seen.

I was learning one of the new MIT free online courses, on robotics. But found myself learning more from some videos in war ridden countries where necessity is a daily thing, or in india where you see some dude just going ballistic, re-balling, eye balling, yanking surface mounts at frenetic speed and actually what seems to me, also learning as he wonders through a field of broken pcbs which are polluting his land fills that WE send to them cuz WE are to lazy to fix them.

I was homeless for awhile, washing up in subway stations on the sneak in TO. So I know a bit about survival, then when I went to work up north, THE REAL north, man oh man, did I learn there also about differences in community, and how we can work together.

I have not posted for a while whilst impaired, I do like my beer and smokes, but lately, I am more less inclined to indulge because this is the first time I have ever seen such a dilemma, and helping others makes more sense to me. Giving them options such as cooking a board at 250 for 10 min stints. I set mine to 250 probably cuz the darn toaster is so old it probably only attains 200. :D This is NOT a science. Its guessing at this point.

Yes, all toaster ovens differ, this method is very dubious at the very least for the educated, but hey, it works, some times. And that is all you can hope from last ditch or as billr so aptly wrote, hail mary. I agree on all points here and should have huge red disclaimers everywhere about how nefarious the vapors can be, or how this stuff may pollute our water supply, but at the end of the day, we are still stuck with broken stuff no one wants to fix and roll of a cliff. ;)

Now, is the best time to try last ditch efforts, such as listening to mother nature and pondering how we as a society can do better.

Ok, my mary poppins act is over, I just felt compelled to write something positive for all.

In my life, I have only joined in serious fashion, 4 sites and have fun with, camaderie and all.

My first one was homeless in TO. I published there a few times. It was a cool adventure. Second one was right here, after coming back from the living dead.

Third one was and is a pc learning site, 4th an overclocking site.

All these made me learn immensely, through the wisdom of folks like jack, bill the other nick, dan, dabunk, jim, and others who I crapped on, didnt give up on me when I understood nothing cuz my french english was sounding like dolly parton in the ears of a china man.

I am a true atheist, but I do believe in the power of helping. Karma is my bitch.
 

KbarC

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Good morning, fellas. I guess i am going to try to bake it (i cringe at the sound of that). lol
I guess my questions now are...

Could there be ANY other possibility of it being anything other that ECU?
When i get another one and it needs "programming", does that have anything to do with engine control or and i just pairing the immobilizer with my keys? If i found a junk yard one with keys would i still have to deal with programming?
 

billr

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Without a scope to look at that TDC signal, you can't be sure that it is remaining good; so there is still some possibility of a wiring/sensor problem. I think trying two sensors, with the same results, kind of eliminates the sensor itself. That leaves only wiring (or the PCM).

I gotta ask again... did you check the A26 signal at the pin inside the PCM? The harness-to-PCM connector is still a suspect, if you haven't.

The whole point of my heat/cool experiments with the PCM board while it is running is to prove the PCM is the problem.

I simply don't know if re-programming of a used one is mandatory, but my visits to JY make me think finding one with keys will be difficult.
 

nickb2

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I simply don't know if re-programming of a used one is mandatory, but my visits to JY make me think finding one with keys will be difficult.
Yes it is, and me to also say good luck finding one with key, but still there is vin mismatch even if the rfid chip signals. So f ed either way unless you completely void the chip and restart.


Some guys on the net just swap the immobilzer, that works also. I a, lucky, I have tooling that helps me do that but unfortunately, not for everyone to get yet for free.
 

KbarC

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Yes. I while it was out, I ran it this morning with the PCM open and tested A26 from the inside, i observe no difference testing from the inside before or after the problem occurs.

Being it was open and just laying there where my glove box used to be, I made an air duct of cardboard, duct tape and a small chunk of wet-vac hose. Closed all the other air vents and let the cold air blow on open board. ..... I observed no difference. It still fail right around the time expected.
 

billr

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Well, I don't know whether that is good news or bad news! Now I am down to thinking the signal needs to be scoped, or new wiring from the sensor to PCM tried. Do you have the ELM dongle coming? I would sure like to see if that shows anything obvious before trying some of these more complicated (or expensive) approaches.

PS: try the hair drier on the (running) open board when cold. See if you can force a premature failure.

PPS: also would like better pictures!
 

KbarC

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yes i finally ordered yesterday.
i will try hair drier
i will TRY better pics.
 

billr

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I'm not any kind of photographer, I understand if you have difficulty with the pix, but I would sure like to inspect the board carefully.

Unfortunately, this Honda ECM is not like my old Saturn. I got a "rebuilt" ready-to-go PCM for that for only $150.
 

KbarC

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Sorry guys, it started pouring rain yesterday. Put everything on delay. I will post back any new info as i find it.
I did try to take more pics of board but they are all the same. I guess that is as good as it gets on an old 6s+
 
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