1968 Impala won't start

Chuck

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Thanks, man. I plan to. I wanna keep it as original as I can. Hence trying to find out how to get it to run well with the old points ignition, rather just swapping to an HEI.
 

Chuck

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Just giving you folks an update. The dwell meter I ordered last week is finally on it's way. When it gets here I'll update everyone.
 

grcauto

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Shouldn't need a dwell meter to get it to run half way decent. I think you have other issues beside dwell.
 

billr

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Agreed. Did you try closing the gap a bit, or closing it until misfire then open up 1/2 turn? Measuring dwell is the precise way to get optimum spark, and easiest way to do it with a GM dizzy; but not necessary to get a typical stock engine running OK.
 

Chuck

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Agreed. Did you try closing the gap a bit, or closing it until misfire then open up 1/2 turn? Measuring dwell is the precise way to get optimum spark, and easiest way to do it with a GM dizzy; but not necessary to get a typical stock engine running OK.
I simply want do it once with the meter and timing gun. Rather than guesstimate without and have to do it over again when it gets here. When it finally arrives I will let you folks know.
 

PC

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Just ran into a similar situation with my 1970 Olds. would start right up then randomly shut off. Hot cold didn't matter but would start right up. Was thinking ignition, so finally changed the condenser and it has run fine past 3 times out.

Original coils rarely go bad. Disconnect positive wire from the coil and check for voltage, both key on engine off and cranking, should have battery voltage cranking. If that passes, change points and condenser. Try to find Delco, or similar, stay away from the really cheap stuff. Book calls for a .019 gap on the points, I used to go with .016 and that got close to 30° dwell. Follow billr's procedure to get the points on the high spot of the distributor cam to check the gap. Ground the coil wire first(wire going to center dist. cap terminal), then have a helper tap the key while watching the points and stop when they are open. GM V-8 distributors use a 1/8" hex wrench to adjust points through the window in the cap.
Little difficult working over the fender on that dizzy, try not to drop the screw holding condenser bracket.
Also, check the primary wire(not plug wire) from the distributor to coil make sure no breaks in insulation. Nothing added to ignition, tach, kill switch, alarm etc?
 

JP

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like I said this is a good thread cant wait to see end result
:bat::bat::bat::bat::bat::bat::bat::bat::bat::bat:

Great thread. I haven't monkeyed around with a distributor in a long time but it does bring back some memories.
 

billr

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When you have a points-ignition engine that will fire but won't keep running when you cease cranking, another likely possibility is the ballast resistor circuit is open. (Stu hinted at that, much earlier in this thread)
 
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