1992 Audi 80 quattro cooling whoes

maverick

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#1
Alright folks, I've got a 1992 audi 80 quattro (2.3 sohc n/a 5 cyl) that is overheating. A little backstory, my temp guage never worked well, it usually stayed at the bottom of the range all the time, but lately it has been working. It overheated the other day, the temp guage read hot and I got a flashing light (coolant tempurature or coolant level warning light). I pulled over, found all hoses to be hot, but my fan not running. I let it cool down and tried to limp it home. On the way the heater stopped working and it overheated again, this time when I popped the hood the fan WAS on. I figured it must be a thermostat and replaced it. It ran perfectly fine today for about 65 miles of highway and stop and go traffic, I thought I had fixed the issue. Until about 5pm returning to work it overheated again. No fan, heater stopped blowing hot air. I let it cool down, replaced the coolant that had boiled over and hardwired the fan to the battery. The temperature guage now read normal, and the heat was hot again, but the light was still flashing.

That said, I do NOT have any sort of manual yet, as they seem to be pretty expensive, and I no longer have alldata... Any thoughts, oh wise forum elders?
 
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#2
I say start with a block test to make sure you don't have a blown headgasket. Also check coolant flow to make sure the vanes on your w/p are still there and working. Also check the radiator to see if it is plugged. And check for proper rad fan operation. HTH Greasemonkey :)
 

maverick

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Well, the fan wasn't running, I replaced the thermo switch, and all was good except it seemed like I was losing coolant. I have no rad cap just an overflow, so I was hoping some bubbles were working their way out. I could see no leaks and my oil was not milky. So I drove it for a whole day. (100 miles or so) and it did fine, just lost a little coolant. Then this morning I go to leave and it won't start! ??? it fires it just seems like it wants to idle at about 100rpm so it dies almost immediately. Then I notice there is water leaking from the bottom of the car, I looked, but I still can't see where it's coming from. i see it along the front pan gasket, but then I lose it. The waterpump seems dry... and I can feel all my hoses, they are dry too. Is there a reason I would have a no start for a leak? I'm still not familiar with these crazy germans... and suggestions?


By the way, all the hoses (top, bottom, heater core and hoses to my second radiator were pressurized with air... not hot at all but pressurized.
 
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#4
Sorry to hear that sounds like you blew the head gasket, by the way you said that the hoses are pressurized with no coolant. A block test will confirm a bad head gasket. You can also check compression to see if it is even and check your spark plugs for signs of water. If a spark plug looks cleaner than the rest that is the cylinder that is bad as the coolant will act like a steam cleaner when it goes through your engine.
HTH Greasemonkey :)
 

maverick

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#5
thats what I feared... I'll try a leakdown test tomorrow to comfirm. Lets hope it starts after I fix the headgasket (assuming it's blown)
 

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#6
Well, I was working under the assumption it was a head gasket, seeings how there was water coming out of the front of the block, and the cooling lines were pressurized with air while trying to start it. I tore down the front of my car to get to the block and see where the water was coming from, and low and behold, the head gasket looks fine! At least from the outside, where I expected to see coolant running down the block. There was, however, plenty of coolant coming from the waterpump. ouch So here is my question to you wise and experienced mechanics, can water pumps, or possibly just a blown gasket, suck in air and pressurize the cooling system?

Also, why would my car not start? I figured if it was a headgasket, I may have lost compression on a cylinder or two, or that maybe I had some water in a couple cylinders... I would REALLY appreciate some input. Thanks.



 
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#7
More than likely your w/p went out first which cause you to lose coolant, which then caused you to overheat. This then most likey blew your head gasket and may have caused other damage to your engine. Could have collapsed pistons, scrored cylinder walls, damaged bearing, and any number of things these are just a few. A CLT(cylinder leakage test) will tell you if the head gasket is bad or if you have excessive blow by pass your valves or rings. Also a compression test would be nice to have to see what cylinders are most afected. HTH Post back with what you find. Greasemonkey :)
 

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#8
I have yet to test for a headgasket. I waited a week for my waterpump gasket to get here, only to install it and find that it was the shaft seal, so my pump is bad afterall. You can even see in the pictures I posted that the coolant is leaking down the side of the pump and pooling underneath. So I have a waterpump on the way. It did start and run just fine, however, save a clicking that sounds like a collapsed lifter... So I still have no Idea why it wouldn't start that day. Everything seems fine now. However, I would appreciate it if anyone with alldata could paste a picture of the timing marks for the crank... I see the timing mark on the pulley and a tab on the block, however the tab is about an inch wide and I'm not sure where exactly to line it up... thanks.
 

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#9
Nobody? I put it back together but the timing is off! Can somebody please get me the timing info? I can't tell exactly where the mark is...
 

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#10
Look at this. Tell me if you need detailled instructions. Greetings Juergen.

[attachment lost in server move]
 

maverick

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#11
I appreciate the pictures, but unfortunately they were not very clear. However, I did get it in time and back together. Seems to be running fine, no leaks, so it seems it was just my waterpump. I think I might be ordering a new one though, seeing how my new one had a dip in the casting which causes a small leak. I added a touch of rtv and that seemed to fix it, but I'd rather have a good pump. Life time warranty so it would be free, just have to do all the work again. Thanks for all your help guys.
 

robian

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#12
Hi the water pump impellers come loose on the shaft when the motor heats up it will look fine when the pump is on the bench. Put a new one on.
Cheers Ian J
 

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#13
???
Welp, this morning I went to leave for work and it was a no start again. Turned over, I unplugged the coil and it was sparking, and I could smell the gas. Again, the coolant lines were pressurized. Went to work, came home to work on it, tried a compression test, did not get conclusive results due to the shitty tester. and after a while, it started right up. ran perfectly. Shut it off, started again just fine. I have to believe this is connected with my overheating... it would be too big a coincidence for a car who has never had any mechanical problems to have to major ones at the exact same time. So it's running fine now... I hate intermittent problems... Any thoughts?
 
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#14
Have a block test done to see if you are getting exhaust into your cooling system. A block test is just a chemical that will change color if exhaust is in your cooling system. Most shop should have this tester. They can also use a gas analyser to sniff the cooling system. Most radiator shops will have a block tester. Sorry to hear you are still having problems. Greasemonkey :(
 

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#15
Well I finally tracked down a block tester, i have problems paying someone to do anything to my car, let alone something so simple... anyways it tested positive for C02. And I realized the pressure left in my cooling system when I park must be ever so slowly misting coolant into one or more cylinders... so until I get my head gasket, I'm just going to release the pressure before I park it overnight. My only question now, is should I convert it turbo while I've got the head off...