1995 Pontiac Grand Am SE 4 door 3.1V6 wiring diagram

wolfsmane

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#16
Mobile Dan, would you happen to know exactly where that relay assembly is located?

Will be this weekend before I can have any spare time to do this.
 

nickb2

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#18
So if you took a look at mobile dan's third diagram, you should understand there is a ground problem. Just look in the door jam area and I will bet you there are two or three wires split there.

Volkswagon had same issues using low end wiring.

Looking at relays won't work here unless you are in a very particular situation. So looking at the wiring, you will probably find grey wire split, verify if it is grounded. Short to ground in this case should read OL on your ohm meter. So, the first thing to check is fuses. After that, the tan wire which comes out of the relay module. Does it have power when actuated? Cuz normally, the orange and black wire and the tan one are all that operates this.

In mobile dan second picture, you will see that connector 204 and just before it the splice s500.

If all pin testing is good, well you have a either a bad switch or a door jam open. :p
 

nickb2

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#19
Here is a short video of a guy testing out a actuator. This guy went to long lengths to bench test. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQavsfUfk1Q

It is a gm actuator. For the past twenty years, they work on same principle.
 

nickb2

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#20
If you still think this a relay issue you need to see this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzfGV7gNVJA

Somewhere at 5mins in the said video back-robing did it's job

Or listen to this tune https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9uUvCNHd9s
 

wolfsmane

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#21
I have not had a free minute to check anything out yet. Just gathering as much info as possible so when I do get the time,
I know what I am looking for.

I appreciate all the info I have received from everyone.
 
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#22
Testing at the relay module connector is not really about (aboot :)) testing the relay module. It's about testing everything else in the system from the same location. Just five wires in a flat connector....doesn't get much easier that that (if you can fit under the dash).

wolflsmane...power door locks are not a critical part of the car. Try to make it fun.
 

Gus

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#23
Have to agree with Mobile Dan on this one.....all the simple tests with a test light are right at the 6 pin relay connector....just disconnect it.....

Check your power and ground there.....disconnect harness from double relay....with a test light, probe C to D....should light....if it doesn't go from C to a good ground....if it lights, you have a bad ground at G302, or an open circuit.....if it still didn't light, and the door lk fuse is ok, you have an open in circuit #440....

If C to D lit up, probe A to D.....now press either door lock switch to lock...test light should light.....now probe F to D and press either switch to unlock.....should light.....if it does in both cases, circuits are ok....if no, check your CTSY fuse......anyone notice the passenger side door lock is mislabled?

Next, you will need two jumpers....jumper B to D.....jumper C to E, they should all unlock...jumper E to D, and B to C, and they should all lock.......

When the whole system fails at once, it is usually either one of the fuses, or the ground.......only if all the previous tests are ok, is it the double relay....

I doubt it is a broken wire in either door pillar, because they are redundant to both sides, meaning wires in both pillars would have to break at the same time....if both sides failed at the same time, that would almost be impossible...