1999 dodge ram 1500 3.9 tranmission not going in to any gear

JMARAUJO26

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the main fuse which is the engine fuse right? the one inside the door? and no is not blowing i switch the cables and than it stop but that problem was on there with the original transmission so i dont think thats the problem cause it was going in to gears with the original tranmission and thats the time when i fix the engine fuse blowing problem.


I
 

nickb2

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I often introduce tunes in what I call interventions to bring stress down,

I love this new group.

Awesome, has a future. As long as they keep their nose clean, hard to do in that industry, yet again of course.
 

JMARAUJO26

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this problem started when i install the transmission i bought in the junk yard. so my engine fuse is good the my wireing is new but i install the new and use tranmissions and when i say that i mean both tranmissions and still no gears change and no none of my fuses are blown when i did this and yes i downloaded the pdf file already
 

billr

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Oh my, what a mess! Are you guys still having fun this morning?

Although it is possible to get two transmissions from a JY that are bad, and in the same manner, it seems pretty obvious to me that this is an electrical problem from ratty/burned wiring. Repairing a ruined wiring harness can get tricky and frustrating, is the OP assiduous enough to take on this project?

Nickb2 or BP, if the OP disconnects the electrical harness(es) from the trans, should it still provide one forward gear and R in "limp mode"? Many types auto trans will do so, and it is a quick/easy way to get some feel for whether the trans innards are more-less operable.
 

JMARAUJO26

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just an update to everybody i did change my WIRES i didnt fix them or type them up i switch them so the ones on there are good now no burn wires no more and i did this with the old TRANSMISSION when i change the wires tranmission was going in to gear just fine the problem why i switch it cause it was leaking a lot on trans fluid from the pump. so that been said now am at my second transmission from junk yard and both transmissions or not going in to gear. so is not the cables i switch the trans relay theres new oil and filter in it. all connecters are plug in. but transmissions did not work at all. anybody got another idea that i havent cover yet that i can do to it..
 

billr

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Do I understand correctly, it won't move at all, either forward or R? Disconnect the shift cable/rod from the trans and put the shift lever on the trans in the "detented" D or R position. Disconnect all electrical cables from the trans. Now see if it will move. No joy? Then we need to have you check the line-pressure from the trans pump. I don't know where that port is, so you will have to wait for somebody else to advise.

Have you had any problems at all mating the trans/converter to the engine? That is a fairly common problem, not getting the driving tang for pump engaged properly; and it often shows up as not being able to easily slide the trans in tight against the engine. If you had to use the bell-housing screws to pull it in, that is a hint...
 

JMARAUJO26

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ok so the torque converter is good it went in twice when i install the transmission. but will see cause today was the third time i take this transsmission off and tomorrow i will go get another one from the junk yard and install it again. so will see if it works tomorrow night. any ideas on what should i do first before i install the transmission on the truck cause to me i been doing everything right. i am certified in mechanic in gasoline engines. i went to school in North Carolina and i been doing this kind of job since i was 15 yrs old in the back of my dads house thats wer i started. so am a very expirence guy, but nobody is perfect thats why i always get a second or more opinons.
 

billr

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Did you do the "harness off" test I suggested? Are you willing to wait until somebody posts about how to test LP? I understand that you are getting quite quick at R & R of this trans, and must love the JY, but I think going for a third one isn't likely to be successful. Let's talk this through some more.
 

stu

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Remove a cooler line and start the engine. If there is fluid flowing the pump is working. No flow means the pump has been jeopardized. Try this first. Then worry about electrical issues.
 

bp042665

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Sorry All Been sick with the flu ok im here to help I hope I own a transmission shop for over 20+ years and 40+ as a mechanic 1) no Movement ok like I saw Disconnect the bottom cooler line from radiator and start truck put in neutral you should have a good flow of fluid 2) you can disconnect transmission electrical and it should work reverse is not electrical so lets forget about electrical for now and start with the cooler line its fast and easy if no fluid flow pump problem ill check in on this through out my day to help
 

billr

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Well, BP, I gotta ask... why is opening the cooler line any easier or less messy than disconnecting the harness and trying R? How will getting "good flow" from the cooler line tell if the line pressure is good? Frankly, I find it can be hard to tell the difference between a 30 psi "spurt" and one at 300 psi. If it will move and you can load the TC in R, then you know the LP is good enough to hold the R clutches, at least.
 

stu

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Well, BP, I gotta ask... why is opening the cooler line any easier or less messy than disconnecting the harness and trying R? How will getting "good flow" from the cooler line tell if the line pressure is good? Frankly, I find it can be hard to tell the difference between a 30 psi "spurt" and one at 300 psi. If it will move and you can load the TC in R, then you know the LP is good enough to hold the R clutches, at least.
ANY flow from the cooler means the pump is working. NO flow means the pump is not working.
 

billr

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For a pump to be "working" properly, it has to provide intended flow and pressure. That "spurt from the line" does not ensure either. I agree, if there is no flow at all, something is wrong; but not necessarily in the pump. Maybe the poor thing is just way low on fluid? I would expect there to be some flow as long as there is fluid in there, without the engine even turning, from gravity-drain of the system. Even if the "spurt" method was effective for testing LP, I still wonder:

"why is opening the cooler line any easier or less messy than disconnecting the harness and trying R?"
 
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