2000 Ford Explorer 5.0L Eddie Bauer running rough

[Mikerizer]

Make

Ford

Model

Explorer, Eddie Bauer Edition

Year

2000

Miles

247,000

Engine

5.0

2000 Ford Explorer 5.0L, Eddie Bauer Edition; Automatic 2WD, 247k miles

Lots going on here. This my brother's truck, and he's flat broke, so I'm trying to help him out. It was setting P0303, P0171, and P0174.

We looked all over for vacuum leaks. I removed the large tube between the MAF and the throttle body, and sure enough, there was about a 1 1/2 in crack in one of the folds. Not having a replacement part available, I cleaned it up and wrapped it tightly with electric tape, making sure to get down in the crease, and over the ridges on both sides...probably 12-15 layers in all. So, I'm pretty confident that leak is stopped.

We did a PCM reset, according to some instructions that seem reputable:
1. Clear CEL codes
2. Turn off lights, A/C, etc.
3. Disconnect negative battery cable and isolate negative battery terminal
4. Place a jumper wire between positive battery cable and negative battery cable; leave hooked up for 10 minutes
5. Restore batter connections
6. Turn key on, but do not crank. Hold for 10 seconds
7. Start motor, and allow to idle for 10 minutes
8. Drive normally for 10 minutes to relearn

The truck idled great during step number 7 above, but drove very roughly. Very sluggish, loped real bad at idle. It was way worse than before. Finally the CEL came on with the following codes: P1131, P1151, P0171, and P0174...each code was in there twice, for a total of 8 codes. The P1131 and P1151 were new codes not set before.

One concern I have is that the temperature gauge isn't working at all. My brother's father-in-law put a new temp sending unit on it the other day, at my suggestion. The only difference is that the AC started working perfectly after that. QUESTION: Does this truck have ONE or TWO temperature sensor/sending units?

Also, since he put the temp sensor on, the tachometer has been working only intermittently.

So, would the faulty temp and flaky tach set the P1131 and P1151 codes, and could they affect the P0171 and P0174 (or should I look for more vacuum leaks)?

We looked for arcing with the lights out, and the plug wire on the third cylinder on the DRIVER side is arcing...but isn't that cylinder #7, not 3?

Finally, the passenger side motor mount may as well not even be there...got one of those ordered. Hopefully not a big job; going in through the passenger wheel well.

Thanks for reading all my ramblings, and thanks for your advice.

--Mike

 

[nickb2]

Hi mike,

I would really be looking for more vacuum leaks. I would try to find a new intake air boot. You are getting lean codes for both banks, and the two new codes 1131 and 1151 just relate back to both banks upstream o2s not switching, probably due to an intake air leak or a bad pcv or blockage of air intake system, such as a bad air filter etc.

Both accompanied with lean codes. So something is affecting those fuel trims on both banks.

Also, since the mass air flow was exposed due to massive crack in air boot that you tried to fix with electrical tape may have gotten dirt on the mass air flow sensitive element. Try clean that also with some mass air flow cleaner or brake cleaner. Repeat steps of clearing code and resetting trims as you did by shorting bat leads together for ten minutes. Then do another drive cycle. See what comes back.

Get vac readings also. What are readings telling you at idle, snapping it to WOT and tell us what needle is doing once it is settling back to idle.

Next, does not mean that since you got arcing on what you think is #7 that # 3 is not in problem. Could be a number of things, but it didn't set code misfire 3 on your test drive. So lets just focus on the bank codes first.

 

[nickb2]

Oh, try getting vac readings cold. Not on a hot engine. Then compare to when engine is up to normal op temp. And a PCV for these is dirt cheap, so pick up one of those also.

 

[nickb2]

Next I highly suggest running a combustion chamber cleaner through the whole intake air system after maf sensor. That crack may have been there for so long, sucking in shyte and plain just blocking air flow. Hence lean codes, o2s not switching. Would be nice to have a scanner here to read the trims in action.

How are you in the scanner dept. Can you read real time live data? If so, what type of scanner are you using? I may have some cheap options for your broke bro.

 

[nickb2]

To help you better understand, the 1131 and 51 is just the computer telling us it is trying to correct an over lean condition. This is in no way telling you to swap o2s.

I have seen guy's swap o2s till they were blue in the face trying to fix 171,174, 1131,1151 codes when all it was a bad air flow, or a bad fuel filter, bad pcv, vac leak etc. All cheap stuff except for a vac leak at lower intake, but to fix most of that is usually part of a routine maintenance anyway. But you did say your bro is flat broke. So usually, when I see broke ppl's cars/trucks, they suffer from a lack of maintenance and that also is indicative of how that engine mount got so deteriorated.

I am not knocking your bro for being broke. I am broke all the time. I am just lucky I am a tech. So I fix my own stuff.

My son will be 15 tomorrow, so in a few years, I may not be so broke so much anymore. My monthly rent cost less than my monthly pension. . Try buying a new car or new home when half your check goes there. But I always say to myself, it is for my son and his schooling, so I don't mind being broke. Part of being a separated dad I guess.

Some of the guy's at the shop tell me to get a live in new girl to help me pay bills. I say no way. That is just setting me up to pay another f ing pension down the road. @ 43, I rather live alone, even if my bills are higher.

 

[nickb2]

Now that I wrote about my personal life, ( I like that ) shows I am human. I find that living alone lets me focus on my career and I am making a better paycheck now since I don't have to deal with useless stuff women want all the time.

I have a girl in my life, she has her own place, a car I got for her, and she still gives me the keys to the car when it goes wrong. Now I get to tell her to screw herself, pay for your own shyte. I love living in 2018 with all that feminism crap out of the way.

I don't need pu$$y that much anymore. When I was 20ish, it was important for me to have a good looking girl on my arm. I was ready to pay for that. Still am to this day.

Anyway, I got way off topic, but essentially, I am just trying to say that I understand broke men. Some are broke cuz they are lazy, some are broke cuz life hits hard sometimes. Like sickness, divorce, lack of substantial work etc.

So I apreciate that you are willing to help your bro. I help my sister all the time. She has had it rough also. Lost a well paying job at air canada, 18 yrs on the job as a stewardess. Now working for 15$hr as a motel receptionist. Not the time to tell her to suck it up. She is 46 and needs her little bro sometimes.

 

[nickb2]

Thanks for reading all my ramblings

Thx for reading mine.

 

[Mikerizer]

Thanks for all your replies! I'll definitely clean the MAF and intake components as you suggested, and replace the PCV valve. I thought I saw a boot on autozone's website for $75 but can't seem to find it again. When you say "running a combustion chamber cleaner through the whole intake air system after maf sensor" do you mean using a spray with the engine off, or is there something else?

Bro. has a good job, and is a single dad with 2 teenage girls. Their mom is in their life, but that's about all I can say publicly. He was working 2 jobs until recently...it was too much of a strain for him to be working full time, and then until 10:30 or so nights...too much of a strain on his girls, I mean...they need dad at home. Like you, I think he'll be fine financially when the girls are grown and making their own living...for now it's hand to mouth. He's honest, dependable, clean living, and working hard...and he's my brother. So I don't mind doing what I can.

Oh, and regarding the scanner...nothing here really. Just a simple code reader that will tell you the codes and clear them. No live readings whatsoever. I may buy something down the road, but I'm not able to make an investment right now.

 

[grcauto]

A blockage of airflow is not a problem. Those codes are from to much air not to little. Don't get yourself overloaded with multiple tests and start with the basics and move through this systematically.
The very first thing we should do is make sure the exhaust is not leaking. This can be done by using a shop vac or leaf blower and pressurizing the system and using a soapy water mix and spraying around the manifold and work are way back past the O2 sensors. Concentrate on welded areas. If the leak is bad enough you may hear it but the soap will expose even small leaks.
There;s all kinds of videos on YT on how to do this if needed.
Here's one from a guy that shows the method described here.
Once we know the exhaust is solid we can move on to other simple things.

 

[grcauto]

Thanks for all your replies! I'll definitely clean the MAF and intake components as you suggested, and replace the PCV valve. I thought I saw a boot on autozone's website for $75 but can't seem to find it again. When you say "running a combustion chamber cleaner through the whole intake air system after maf sensor" do you mean using a spray with the engine off, or is there something else?

Bro. has a good job, and is a single dad with 2 teenage girls. Their mom is in their life, but that's about all I can say publicly. He was working 2 jobs until recently...it was too much of a strain for him to be working full time, and then until 10:30 or so nights...too much of a strain on his girls, I mean...they need dad at home. Like you, I think he'll be fine financially when the girls are grown and making their own living...for now it's hand to mouth. He's honest, dependable, clean living, and working hard...and he's my brother. So I don't mind doing what I can.

Oh, and regarding the scanner...nothing here really. Just a simple code reader that will tell you the codes and clear them. No live readings whatsoever. I may buy something down the road, but I'm not able to make an investment right now.

If that system uses a hot wire MAF you may see a 'fur coat' on the sensor wire. You'll probably need a mag glass to see it. If it's coated you want to use a cotton swab and a little alcohol to remove the 'fur coat'. When these sensors get this problem they will report to much air at idle and to little under load.
Start with these two things first. The MAF is quick and easy so you may want to do it first then the exhaust.
Let's see what you find.

 

[kev2]

Have you checked fuel PRESSURE?
the p1131 and p1151 are addressed AFTER correcting P030x codes.

Do you have a scanner with live data? I am thinking fuel pump. Was there other codes ie coolant sensor.

AC and coolant temp - the PCM will restrict AC if the ECT is not known,

The codes are appear in twice likely current along with a pending or history file

 

[grcauto]

I must have had a brain fade. Did not see you had a misfire on number 3. We will want to resolve this although it wouldn't account for the system being lean on both banks but we will want to correct this. Fuel pressure is another basic that should be verified. You'll want to make sure it holds under load. Put the gauge onto the windshield and drive it up a hill or under WOT condition and see that it stays up where it belongs.

 

[Mikerizer]

Well, it's not getting any better. Haven't done much additional troubleshooting, but did confirm that my patchwork on the "Hose-Air" between the MAF and Throttle Body didn't hold. Good news is that I was able to find a part number on it: XL2X-9R. I found one on ebay for about $23...gonna take a chance that it's in good shape.

The main goal this evening was to replace the engine mount on the passenger side. Big problem: the mount itself seems OK, but there is an upper plate that the top part of the mount bolts to. The two bolts holding that plate to the engine block are sheared off...one flush with the block; the other a thread deep. Can anyone tell me the size of these bolts, and the optimum size screw extractor and drill bit to use? I have a straight shot to the rear bolt...the other one is less direct; I may be able to hit it straight with a long drill bit. I sprayed WD-40 on them tonight; I'll pick up some PB Blaster tomorrow and soak them a time or two. It's going to be Friday evening or Saturday before I can do any real work on it.

Regarding cylinder #3...the top layer of insulation was split for nearly the entire length of the plug wire. The outer black layer...the white layer beneath it looks good. Also, the part that snaps to the top of the spark plug was pretty wobbly.

 

[grcauto]

Get some Kroil for the bolts. That stuff is the best. spray them several times a day and if you can get a vise grip or small pipe wrench on it you'll probably get it out without having to drill it.

 

[nickb2]

The two bolts holding that plate to the engine block are sheared off...one flush with the block; the other a thread deep.

Don't think vise grips here will work. You could use a welder to build up a nub. Then weld a nut to those nubs. I don't know if nub is the right word, but you get my drift probably. I do this all the time on ford 5.4l engine which love to shear right off at the head for the exhaust manifolds.

If you don't have a welder, one can be rented, cuz drilling those will be very time consuming. Those will probably be 12X1.25, but I can't confirm that. Just a guess.