2000 Ford Mustang AT base model v6 3.8 - broke accelerator cable

billr

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#16
Hmm... this seems to be a perfect opportunity to teach your child to be a DIYer, or figure out how to be rich. Surely her bones are still in better shape than yours? Yes, girls can do it too.
 

wolfsmane

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#18
So, I drove it around for a while last night. I couldn't tell anything was wrong with the cable, so I have
decided to just leave it alone.

I really appreciate yall giving me your time, knowledge and advice.

If I may another completely different question. I notice that this car is idling a bit too fast. The RPMs on the dash
are around 1200. The car will take off on its own just release your foot off the brake pedal. I adjusted the idle screw
on the side of the throttle body as much as I could and it dropped the RPMs down around 1000.

Between the throttle position sensor and the idle air control valve, which is the one that would control the idle speed? I
am guessing the IAC. The IAC, is that a part that needs to be replaced, or can it be cleaned?

Thanks again
 

nickb2

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#19
Between the throttle position sensor and the idle air control valve, which is the one that would control the idle speed? I
am guessing the IAC. The IAC, is that a part that needs to be replaced, or can it be cleaned?
The car will take off on its own just release your foot off the brake pedal.

Yes times 3. This was a very problematic portion of fords of this era. The infamous IAC.

What most ppl do, is exactly what you did. And this most often results in searching/loping idle scenarios or high idle. IAC cannot correct, cuz a adjustment was not needed, unless :like you" accelerator cable replacement.

In that case, an idle relearn is needed.

Before, you wrote this

The car will take off on its own just release your foot off the brake pedal.

This means you adjusted to tight. ;) something that is not adjustable.
 
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nickb2

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#20
Nothing tps wise, idle wise is adjustable.

So before I start to sound condescending, did you replace cable with a new one?

Or sort of salvage and adjust nuts on intake hold down/cruise?

My advice, slack off anything you did. Take off cable from throttle, does rpm go back to normal?

If yes, you adjusted something that did not need adjusting. The cable has a specified route, and also length.

I once made the same sort of mistake as you on a client car, passing cable through firewall was difficult, end up passing cable around the booster wrong way, kinked the installation, bam fast idle.


I hope this helps.
 

wolfsmane

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#21
Yes times 3. This was a very problematic portion of fords of this era. The infamous IAC.

What most ppl do, is exactly what you did. And this most often results in searching/loping idle scenarios or high idle. IAC cannot correct, cuz a adjustment was not needed, unless :like you" accelerator cable replacement.

In that case, an idle relearn is needed.

Before, you wrote this




This means you adjusted to tight. ;)

It took off too fast before I made the adjustment. I tried to adjust it to slow down the idle, not increase. It doesn't idle rough, its
smooth, just too fast.

So, the IAC, do I try cleaning it or replace it?
 

billr

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#22
Are you sure the throttle arm on the TB is always going completely to the stop? When you broke the red plastic part, you lost much of the spring force from the coil spring around the red sleeve. The TB has redundant closing spring(s), the torsion spring around the throttle shaft; but loss of spring force from the compression spring is something to be considered.
 

wolfsmane

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#23
Sorry, I was writing the last response before your last one posted.

I did not replace anything. I left the old throttle cable as is. I test drove it for about 30 minutes, and nothing seemed
wrong with the cable.

The idle was too fast, around 1200 on the dash gauge. I adjusted the idle screw on the side of the throttle body. I turn it out
to slow down the idle. I was able to get the idle down to about 1000 RPMs.
 

wolfsmane

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#24
Are you sure the throttle arm on the TB is always going completely to the stop? When you broke the red plastic part, you lost much of the spring force from the coil spring around the red sleeve. The TB has redundant closing spring(s), the torsion spring around the throttle shaft; but loss of spring force from the compression spring is something to be considered.

Yes, I tried turning it with my hand and it is as far as it can possibly go.
 

billr

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#25
Try blocking the IAC port with your finger, see if that brings the idle way down. If not, no amount of fussing with it will accomplish what you want. We need to find out where the "vacuum leak" that is causing the too-fast idle really is. Could be the IAC, or throttle stop/cable, or a real leak like PCV or brake booster hose.
 

nickb2

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#26
Are you sure the throttle arm on the TB is always going completely to the stop? When you broke the red plastic part, you lost much of the spring force from the coil spring around the red sleeve. The TB has redundant closing spring(s), the torsion spring around the throttle shaft; but loss of spring force from the compression spring is something to be considered.

Very astute
we are live almost, hi calif. ;)

Also wolfsbane. sorry i didnt catch this one before. I love stangs, but hate ford in general. LOL
 

billr

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#28
I gotta go. If blocking the IAC port in the TB doesn't bring idle way down, then slide a block or wood/plastic over the TB opening, that should cut off all "normal" air intake. If that doesn't drastically lower engine speed, then there must be a vacuum leak.
 

wolfsmane

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#30
Started the car, let it run about 5 minutes, idle was 1000 RPMs on the dash. Completely covered the IAC port and the idle dropped to 500 RPMS.

So, this means its the IAC? Clean it out?

Thanks for the help guys