2000 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0L 2wd radio powering up problem

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#1
Make
Ford
Model
Ranger
Year
2000
Miles
142k
Engine
V6 3.0L
So I have a powering up problem with my ranger, replaced the factory radio with a after market and I wired it perfect first try and my only problem was I wired it wrong so it didn’t keep the memory. Decided to re wire it about a month later and now the system doesn’t turn on period. Got a new radio, wired the radio PERFECT (to clarify because I’m positive I made no mistake in wiring everything) checked my fuses, they were good, and the new radio won’t turn on neither. Anyone have an idea why this is happening. Bad ground maybe? It makes no sense to me. Please help and I don’t care for the “you wired it wrong” because I’ve seen dozens of threads with people having the same problem. Just want it fixed
 
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#2
Typically you have three important wires. Main power wire is hot with key on or at accessory position. Memory power has power at all times. And a ground wire is the third wire you need.
 
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#3
Typically you have three important wires. Main power wire is hot with key on or at accessory position. Memory power has power at all times. And a ground wire is the third wire you need.
Right I got my hot at all times (power/memory) wire and the accessory wire, as well as the ground figured out and together with their appropriate colors coming from the radio wire harness. Problem is that none of my fuses are blown under the hood at the mass relay box and in the cab where the fuse panel is itself. I even checked for an inline fuse that goes from the fuse panel (the #20 fuse) to the end of the actual radio wire where it’d be connected to the new radio wire harness. No inline fuse on there. The fuse on the radio system is also good. I’m dumbfounded and I know I have my wires right.
 
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#4
Gone are the days of the easy radio install, now its computer interfacing, serial numbers, and security systems . .

I would reinstall the 'good' radio you removed, confirm the overall system operates.
Which radio was in the ranger ? and we will get the wiring diagram, maybe a separate amp IDK without looking.

Contact 'crutchfield.com' look for the system and see if a separate harness is sold or some support. Why - read first sentence.
 
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#5
Mike, have you done actual testing of those wires with some sort of test tool? Checking fuses and identifying wires by color may not tell you where the problem is... 1559140810186.png
 
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#6
if you attached wire correctly so there must be an issue in radio which you got from a market, Try different and check is that working fine or not, As you said some other peoples also facing this prob, I think one of my cousin he has Ford ranger 2004, he was facing a similar issue, he was using that truck for Roadside Assistance Services, but he solved that problem if you haven't solved this issue so I can ask him about the issue.
 
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#7
if you attached wire correctly so there must be an issue in radio which you got from a market, Try different and check is that working fine or not, As you said some other peoples also facing this prob, I think one of my cousin he has Ford ranger 2004, he was facing a similar issue, he was using that truck for Roadside Assistance Services, but he solved that problem if you haven't solved this issue so I can ask him about the issue.
Yep figured it out, for some reason there was a short from my constant wire. My cigarette lighter wire also had a short. Didn’t want to waste my time tracking down a short for the wires so I found another constant wire in the fuse panel and ran speaker wire from that new constant wire to the radio. I’m positive the problem people are having was the same as mine, shorts in the wire. about 5 hours of work and solved with the tool Mobile Dan showed me.
 
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#9
Had problems with my 89 Continental radio, they are not radios anymore but computers. Problem was when I hit the starter battery voltage was dropping below 8.5 volts so the power on reset all microcontrollers need was dropping below 5 volts so were not getting a proper reset. Not only this but the computerized suspension system was going crazy.

Car batteries lose their storage capacity, and Ford starters love to pull an inrush current of over 1000 amps, so if that voltage drops, all kinds of problems. Power switch was not a real power switch but a command to the controller to switch it on, but without the code reset, wouldn't know where to begin. Also poor battery and ground connections.

Father-in-law's electronic dash would not light up, his dealer replaced the first one during the one year warranty, but after a year wanted 700 bucks to replace it again. Brought it over to my place 300 miles away. Ignition switch had a dirty contact, straightened it out, polished it and never had a problem again.

Problem with putting computers in car, everyone has problems with home computers, lose one bit in the data stream, have problems, if an address code, processor doesn't recognize it and the computer crashes. Talk about living on the edge.

You don't want a test lamp, get a digital voltmeter. Ha, I have one from 1968 that cost $3,000.00, today, a good one can be purchased for ten bucks. Looking for voltage drops, circuit under load. If the voltage drops below 8.5 volts, have problems.

Practically all aftermarket radios can be bench tested, but not all OEM radios, protected with a hidden code, they do this so nobody will steal your OEM radio, but who is dumb enough to steal an OEM radio. Car makers think so.