2001 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 AWD DRL? And no SES/MIL light

ivane21

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#1
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MAKE: Ford
MODEL: Explorer
YEAR: 2001
MILES: 258000
ENGINE
: 5.0
DESCRIBE ISSUE.... check engine light does not come on anytime. And DRL do not either. Seems related.

Hello everyone,

Another question, i ordered the new fuel tank filler neck and new gas cap and ready to install it wi5h hopes of getting rid of the SES/MIL lamp indicator of P0451 I belive it was...i have not tried my scan tool yet. But I have noticed that the MIL/SES light does not come on. At all...normal airbag light, parking lights, lights on mirrors for illuminated entry are all working. Maybe this truck does not uave DRL. But i sure think I remember them working and always fuss with them. Alwso being a mechanic and pulling in and out so many cars I usually always turn the lights on manually on any car. The headlighta seem to need adjustment or they are dim. Highbeams work, but seem dim. Maybe I just need to adjust and check them.

Here is the question, is there a common fuse or relay relaying the MIL/SES dash light with the DRL on this model? The OD works. I watched a YouTube video showing that a Lamp Out Module is located under the front controls where the cup holders are at and that it must be ordered from Ford and that if it goes bad that the headlisghts would appear dim. But they also lost tail lights and all ssorts of others. Everything seems to work on mine. Any clues? Its cold up here today. But we have a nice weekend forcasted and I plan to check all fuses and maybe swap some relays around as well as install the fuel tank filler neck and gas cap. As discussed on previous forums this is a well maintained 2nd owner truck, parts are cheap and I plan to have my wife drive it until it needs a new motor, even then i might decide to rebulid the 5.0 during the summer. Everything seems to work so well. Just looking for any schematics or ideas on ifbthese can be related and what parts I might want to get orsered or picked up before the weekend and of couse the holidays....I could be wrong on the DRL, but so many have this and i have seen so many relays on other cars...I suspect something is related to the two problems.

Thanks for any suggestions.
Ivan
 

96eb96

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#2
I don;t think explorers have DRL unless Canadian. Are you talking about autolamp?
I don't think you have LOM, it was decontented in 98. I have one on my 96.
Is the truck running? Usually no SES means you have a bad PCM relay and no juice the computer (in other words call a tow).
Otherwise the bulb could be burnt out in the dash.
 
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ivane21

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#3
Hello,

Yes it runs great. Just did the front brakes yesterday and it runs just fine. Except for some steering or front differential problem which is for a new forum...
Ill try my scan tools...
I think your right about the DRL. Just fog lights, no its not Canada or Canadian.
 

nickb2

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#4
If it is USA, DRL will not be an issue. Funny stuff, sometimes I fix cars from japan, very solid cars, but only the ones with the blue tags. They come up here VGA.

The eddie bauer trucks were really nice, I had fun with that series. I can't wait for you to start a new thread for the front differential. The ones I used to fix had a half cross angle like old jeep's, and I once made a very costly mistake.

The interior was beige. I forgot my gloves and could not get the grease out of that interior. Took me two days to wash that. I was not going to deliver this truck like that.

Have you checked the inner axle joint on the driver side? They are the one's that go prematurely.

Also, check the upper and lower ball joints, very common on these trucks.

Ivan, you seem to have good skills, keep at it. This series of eddie bauer made good high mileage truck's.
 

nickb2

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#7
But since this is a 2001, check this wiring out. The battery saver relay is often the culprit. There are 6 or 8 relays in regards to vehicle lighting. Also, the auto lamp sensor in the top of the dash works like a caddilac. Screenshot (399).png
 

nickb2

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#8
I would like to know if this model of yours is a constant velocity front end diff? I think so, but maybe you have a slip yoke. Maybe I spelled that wrong. But like I said before, look to the universal joints first. I hated ford trucks for this:eek::money:
 

nickb2

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#10
Tip for polishing, remove the headlamps for easier polishing. That way you can kill two birds with one stone. Once they are nice and clear, you can adjust them and not scratch the paint finish. If you have a garage, use the door and tape to measure the height of adjustment. Right side should always be a bit off.

Better to take 30 minutes more and make a good job. It is worth it and safer when driving at night. Up here, when we get big snow storms, best to have good exterior illumination.
 

ivane21

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#11
Wow Nick, I really appreciate all the time you put into your replies here. Yes the front differential is a CV style, as it has two CV shafys coming out each side. I will find a strong prybar and see if something is loose around there, makes alot of sense to me.
I belive the slip yoke style is like what many of the jeeps have in the front. CV seems easier to work on...for me anyways. I remeber guys at the shop working on those jeeps and other soldid axles amd alot of bearings and sometimes the torch came out and hammering and yelling. (Sounds pleasant huh).
Well i kind of remeber it that way.

I was fresh out of school and wanted to help however I could and learn what I could. So I'd always watch and help if I did not have anything in my bay....might as well help them break their 40 hours if I couldn't break mine....

Ok im going to look at the explorer now, thanks again for tour time here, very much appreciated sir!

Ivan
 

nickb2

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I remeber guys at the shop working on those jeeps and other soldid axles amd alot of bearings and sometimes the torch came out and hammering and yelling. (Sounds pleasant huh).
Yes, fun times. I used to call this calling "all saints from hell".

I don't know how many oxy tanks I went through for these types of jobs.
 

nickb2

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#13
So I'd always watch and help if I did not have anything in my bay....might as well help them break their 40 hours if I couldn't break mine....
Yes, this is also as how I learned my trade. I would look at the older guy's work and just listen and watch. I kept my mouth shut and learned whilst seeing how tough this trade was going to be.

Funny story, an old wolf once looked at me swinging a 32 ounce ball peen on the lift shaft. I dented the shaft and that lift leaked for a long time. My fault cuz I lost my cool.

It was a VW car and I had to replace the down pipe. Those C clamps were a doozy. This old dog came over and gave a simple trick. It took him 2 minutes to do what I had just spent 3hrs on.

His trick was to use a GM wheel stud and just popped them out instead of using the snap-on special tool for this particular job. Every or GTI's, Jetta's went smooth. Life lesson learned.
 
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ivane21

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#14
So nice to relate with you guys here. So a quick update on my wife's explorer.
1. I tried my scan tool, it showed two codes, both were the same P0455, first tine I saw the same code twice. My scan tool recognized the SES/MIL/CEL as illuminated, but it does not ahow on dash. I earased them and rechecked and clear for now.
Hopefully that fuel filler neck and new gas cap fixed my gross EVAP leak. I can only assume that the bulb is burned out....so I need to look into replacing just the bulb or the instrument cluster, prefer to change the bulb if it's possible.

2. I drove the truck up on ramps, raining all day here...so i didnt spend alot of time. But i took a few large prybars down with me underneath and nothing seems loose. I was able to move the sway bar from side to side, i think those bushings are bad, links are new, but the bishings look swollen and rotten, could have been my squeeking, no noise now, but the WD40 might have helped.

3. I prided and prodded all parts that i could: tie rods, control arms, feont differential, propeller shaft, ball joints, CV shafts. Everything is solid. But it was on ramps so maybe i need to have the suspension hanging free to see for sure, when i did the brakes, I had jack stands under the control arms. So my plan for tomorrow is to jack up just the frame as high as i can and let the suspension hang loose.

I was able to get small movement in and out from the CV to the transmission on both sides and i noticed the left one looked newer. The right one had some fluid leaking where it slides into the housing of the differential. I did not see this before, i was able to pry out enough to feel the seal inside and it was soft, not dry and cracked....my plan is to check the fluid and top off the front differential. Check pricing on the right CV shaft and decide from there what to do. Both CV shafts had notches on then where i was able to use to pry them back into position, they did not move much, maybe 1/4" just enough to feel the outside of that seal.

If the fluid is full I will take a close look at that propeller shaft and make sure the boot is intact and not lost grease at the transfer case end.

If i still cant find anything, after that I will drive it to a local Alignment shop, that is all they do is suspension and driveline. I would imagine they can tell me what I need inorder to do an alignment and a suspension inspection for a reaonable price. And its not far from my house, maybe 8 miles or so with no freeway. Then order parts based on what they say. Im hoping I did this wrong today and that my idea of having the suspension hang will be more accurate for checking out these parts.

Thanks again for all the advice, I already purchased the headlight cleaner you suggested and have plenty to do now.

Also for being able to relate with some humor here is great. Your a great guy to help me out as much as you have. Thanks again buddy.

Ivan
 

nickb2

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#15
If your scan tool is showing that P0455 in there twice, and you were able to erase them, that definitely means the ADL is communicating with the PCM.

Those swollen sway bar bushings could very much be that noise you are hearing. That is an added bonus. Those are cheap to replace. I am often able to replace them without having to remove the tires, but you need small hands and be flexible.

As for the CEL light, that bulb must have been lit for a long time to burn like that. A 194 bulb should confirm this, 99cents at your local NAPA/autozone for a two pack, by 6 of those. If the bulb does not work, investigate the cluster PCB. I will provide cluster PCB schematics once you post back if the bulb change did not work.

Tip, while you are in the, change all those bulbs at once, you do not want to be removing that cluster often, dash rattle will result.

It is snowing just a bit up here, and my GF's friend want me to investigate a suspension sound, but I already know what it will be. An upper strut mount right rear side.
Your a great guy to help me out as much as you have. Thanks again buddy.
That is what this site is all about. You can thank us better later once you get this special edition truck all buttoned up.;) And your wife will have a sweet ride.:bat: