2002 Altima 2.5L trouble codes P1122 & P1126

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#1
Hello Guys,
You've helped me here before and I thank you for your replies. I have another problem with my wife's car. I saw one of the headlights out the other day and had a new in the next day. On the following day both of the headlights were out and I to change them again. Yesterday, she got the car started and siad the wipers were going as fast as they could without even turning them on. I told her to turn the ignition off and restart the car and when she did so, it blew the main fuse link on the positive battery terminal. I got the fuse going and had the car restarted, but then I got both codes P1122 and P1126 and had the headlights out again. On top of this, the halogen lights were burned out and the interior lights were out along with both fuses for the low beam. The high beams and the side markers are still good. I am not sure where to start here and am thinking that I may have a short to ground somewhere. What do you guys think and where would you guys recomend I start from?

Thanks in advance for all of your help.

Dan
 

nickb2

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#2
Thinking you may have a problem with your "intelligent power distribution module" in engine bay, fancy words for fuse and relay center. This modules affects all the systems you have described having problems with. The electronic throttle control system is what those two codes are for. Here is a diagram of that relay center. Check for corrosion or water intrusion etc. I would suspect a short somewhere in the IPDM module sending power to wiper motor, and maybe robbing power from headlights, or something to that effect, see picture here and look at circuit from 50amp fuse "d", see how it powers wiper motor, head lamps, and throttle control via entry #2 into IPRM? Check around there to find your trouble. I am pretty sure this is the only logical reason for having those specific systems fail and have those precis two codes appear at the same time. My logic when I read myself here seems sound.

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#3
Got a multimeter ? I am real curious as to what the battery voltage reads with the car running. I would start with the charging system, voltage too high or low can cause all kinds of odd things to happen. If you have a local auto parts store that checks the charging system for free that might be an option. Have them test the battery and charging system to make sure they are ok, then I would start troubleshooting.

Ford_Dude
 
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#4
Thank you for the replies guys.
I had the battery changed about two months ago and will check the voltage coming out the alternator. I would agree with Nick about the IPDM and will take a closer look there. I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks again.
 

CraigE

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#5
I also think it must be a voltage problem. I do not think a short would cause a bulb to burn out. The current going thru it is a factor of the bulb resistance. So I believe you have a high voltage getting through. I would think the battery would show problems as well. Let us know what you find. CRAIG
 
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#6
Clarify for me....These bulbs have obvious burnt out filaments? Or do they just fail to illuminate? (i.e. good bulbs,but no power to bulbs)
 
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#7
CraigE said:
I also think it must be a voltage problem. I do not think a short would cause a bulb to burn out. The current going thru it is a factor of the bulb resistance. So I believe you have a high voltage getting through. I would think the battery would show problems as well. Let us know what you find. CRAIG
I checked the voltage on the battery and got 12. 5V. With the car running and fan on a/c, headlights on, wipers and everyhting I could turn on. . . I got 14. 2V. It seems the alternator is doing just fine. The battery is couple months old.
What else I should be looking at? Any other suggestions?
 
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#8
Danica said:
Clarify for me. . . . These bulbs have obvious burnt out filaments? Or do they just fail to illuminate? (i. e. good bulbs,but no power to bulbs)
Yes, The bulbs are out with burnt out gfilaments. When I had them changed out last time they were working. . . until the car went crazy with the wipers going on highest speed and the main fuse blew out.
 
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#9
Did you check all of the fuses ? I nosed through the troubleshooting chart and it mentioned if another fuse was burnt out that it would set the 1126 code. I am curious, the main fuse that blew was a 120 A fuse correct ? Thats an awful lot of current. Last time I saw one of those blown out was when somebody tried to jump start a car backwards. Or they put a battery in backwards. How long has this problem been going on ? Any chance it started around the time you got that new battery ?

Ford_Dude
 

billr

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#10
That 14.2V from the alternator, is that at idle? If so, what voltage do you get if speed is increased to about 2500 rpm? And, of course, the alternator's regulator could be intermittent... there isn't much else that will prematurely pop a headlamp filament except over-voltage or excessive vibration (or air in the bulb from cracked glass).
 
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#11
Ford_Dude said:
Did you check all of the fuses ? I nosed through the troubleshooting chart and it mentioned if another fuse was burnt out that it would set the 1126 code. I am curious, the main fuse that blew was a 120 A fuse correct ? Thats an awful lot of current. Last time I saw one of those blown out was when somebody tried to jump start a car backwards. Or they put a battery in backwards. How long has this problem been going on ? Any chance it started around the time you got that new battery ?

Ford_Dude
I have checked on all fuses miltiple times. The ones I have had go out were the two for the low beam headlights. And yes, the main fusible link coming off the battery is 120A. . . I believe. The battery I believe went out following the problem the car is having now. I have gone through every possible connection and checked to see for any shrorts, wires burnt etc. and haven't found anything. I'm really stunned. ???
 
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#12
billr said:
That 14. 2V from the alternator, is that at idle? If so, what voltage do you get if speed is increased to about 2500 rpm? And, of course, the alternator's regulator could be intermittent. . . there isn't much else that will prematurely pop a headlamp filament except over-voltage or excessive vibration (or air in the bulb from cracked glass).
Just ran the test again and am still getting about 14. 1V @ 2500-3000rpm. It flactuates with about 0. 1V to 0. 2V when I add on additional amps, but eventually evens out to 14. 1V. No sure what else I should be looking at.
 
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#13
Time to check the grounds. Pulling up the grounds on Mitchell on demand I see a couple likely suspects:

E15 Front of left front fender (left headlight and wipers ground)
E24 which appears to split from E-15 Right rear of engine compartment

E115 Front of right front fender (right headlight)
E-129 which splits from 115 Right read of engine compartment.
Cable is black, but you already knew that from the moment I said ground.

Ford_Dude
 
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#14
Ford_Dude said:
Time to check the grounds. Pulling up the grounds on Mitchell on demand I see a couple likely suspects:

E15 Front of left front fender (left headlight and wipers ground)
E24 which appears to split from E-15 Right rear of engine compartment

E115 Front of right front fender (right headlight)
E-129 which splits from 115 Right read of engine compartment.
Cable is black, but you already knew that from the moment I said ground.

Ford_Dude
Thanks, Ford_Dude! I will get on this and hope to get it this time. Do you have any suggestions on how to make sure the grounds are good? Should I loosen and tighten them up again? Run a continuity test once I have the grounds off the body? What is the proper way to check on those?
 

billr

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#15
Are these stock headlamps, or some sort of super-duper eye-ball burners? I think it has to be the voltage regulator; bad grounds won't burn out bulbs, only make them dimmer. (I'm assuming these are 12V nominal lamps, no weird series system)