2002 Ford Mustang abs light and traction control light on. No power fuse 37

ivane21

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#1
Hello again,

I have had an abs and traction control light on for sometime now. Maybe a year or more. I don't have the owners manual but I checked all fuses and 2 of them have no power. One of them 35 I think has power on both sides when I press the brake pedal.
The fuse #37 has no power at all. From what I see it controls the abs, traction control and transmission.
The transmission seems to be shifting funny. I really need it fixed.
I tried 2 shops and all 3 of my scan tools. No one can pull any code's at all. The shop tried their nice wireless Snap-On scanner and his old OCT one. Same thing.

It just keeps saying that it cannot connect to the abs modual.

The dealer wants over $800 for just the electronic side.
I found a used one for $300 that can be shipped.

Any thoughts? How can I troubleshoot this myself?
2002 ford mustang v6 3.8 140,000 miles.

I did watch a YouTube video of modual replacement on a GO version.
Help and thank you.
 
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#2
not making sense the wiring diagram I'm looking at SO let me dbl check
this is a 2002?
mustang 3.8L - engine should not make a difference but lets ck anyway
the fuses are - underhood battery junction box? OR Central box?

I see ABS fuses with #'s like 117 235 229 -- thats why i ask.
 
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#4
fuse #5 and fuse # 29 - fuse 33 - #8 #17

Its getting late, I'm posting everything that MAY relate....

No scan ability- ck fuse #1 - then at the ALDL confirm power 12v at cavity #16
 
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#5
oops sorry for double post wanted to add ALDL pic

fuse #5 and fuse # 29 - fuse 33 - #8 #17

Its getting late, I'm posting everything that MAY relate....

No scan ability- ck fuse #1 - then at the ALDL confirm power 12v at cavity #16
cavity 4,5 are grounds
 

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#6
Fuse #37 is just a illumination fuse. It probably does not show current until the light switch is pulled or something similar for night driving. Fuse 35 fuse show power both side when brake pedal is pressed. That is the way it works. It is ok to me.
Hold off on the module replacement, it just might be a bad connection or broken wire to the diagnostic connector. If everything is OK on what kev2 suggests, then I would check continuity between #2 on ALDL (tan/orange wire) and terminal #30 on the ABS control Module. (tan/orange wire). If no continuity connection there I would check out connector 144 in front of the engine close to the radiator. It is a "16" pin square connector. It may be a bad connection there. Pull it apart and take a look for bad connector pins.

I meant to circle the ALDL and the "ABS control module" where pin #30 is located, but circled instrument cluster and ALDL instead.. The tan/orange wire also connects to the Powertrain Control Module which may be why your transmission is acting up also. Who knows, have to start somewhere.
 

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ivane21

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#7
Thank you everyone, I am at the library now checking ALLDATA.
I will do all the tests that you ask and give results later.
I hope I find a broken wire or bad connection.
Transmission really acting funny, We have so many potholes in Minnesota because of the bad winter its hard to tell, but on a good road it really feels funny and it seems these systems are tied together...

Thanks,
Again, Hopefully everything is easy to access.
 
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#8
Below is a look at what connector C144 looks like and the pinout numbers that I have circled. Circuit 914. One is the male and the other is the female part of the connector. Just in case you get lucky.
 

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ivane21

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#9
Just spent alot of time on ALLDATA, everything suggested makes alot of sense, I think I need a refresher course though...I went to school back in 1996 for 2 years for automotive and worked 5 years in a shop. Seems alot has changed, maybe its just lately, i've had a few presistint problems I can't seem to fix.

Need to find that 144 as "the old man" suggested, I think that might be my issue after looking at ALLDATA.
I left my multimeter out in the uninsulated garage and the bateries sulfated on me, tried new ones, no luck.
Guess I'll be stopping by Sears to buy one, to start testing some of these things...

I know I have seen a few connections under the hood with a 10mm bolt holding them together, I assume the 144 will be there. The ALLDATA gets very specific, about a "GEM" and "DLC" "inline 144" "inline 140"

I'm sure its pretty easy if you know your terms and where to pinpoint wires, but geez, I haven't a clue, I will start with what "Kev2" and "the old man" suggest and follow up.

Thanks again, Ivan
 

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#13
sorry for all the half assed posts yesterday - the day was over for me.

I think the place to start is with communication with scanner- traction control interfaces with ABS, one fails the other fails - we need to know what issue the modules are setting light on for and that requires a scanner-

SUGGESTION- a quick probing of the ALDL cavities identified..
describe transmission acting -funny- might be a clue.
 
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#15
Wisconsin shares your potholes and rain. ABS problems with a light on usually indicate something like a wheel sensor being bad as does the traction control.

Two tests are made, first is static, opens or shorted circuits in wheel sensors, power and pump relay, and the pump, here the ABS light comes on and stays on. Second is a dynamic test, around 5-8 mph, usually one of more sensors are not outputting properly, then the light comes on.

Don't know of any generic scanner that tests ABS, with GM need their scanner with an ABS module, not sure about Fords, but was able to troubleshoot these by pulling the plug from the ABS module and using a scope to test all the sensors. With static tests on the relays and hot wiring the pump. Most common is an open circuit to one of the wheel sensors, certainly exposed to plenty of road salt.