2002 Ford Mustang abs light and traction control light on. No power fuse 37

nickb2

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ok im am confused, is fuse f1-34 still blowing or what? disregard pdf, still working my virtual printer. Will post back power distribution circuit for fuse 34, does not seem abs/traction control related, probably two seperate issues here. After looking at wiring, I revise, would look to constant control relay module, connectors or wiring first then see is abs/tc light goes out. that is my :idea:
 

ivane21

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Anyone know where the Constant Control relay module is at?

No, never any blown fuses or problems, just was no power to the 2 fuses, i found out that I got power on both sides when pressing the brake.
The other sounds like its fog lamps or some kind of illumination.
I got good daylight finally, I will be rechecking all under-hood fuses and under-dash fuses. Also, power and ground at the ALDL and I will try the continuity test on the ABS module.

Thanks,
Ivan
 

kev2

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scroll down to post #11 mobile dan added a diagram.-- Dan da man :Clap
http://www.batauto.com/Forums/index.php?topic=12203.0

A CCRM breakout -
http://www.askatech.com/AskATechLive/AatFileShare/References/FastTrack/F093.pdf
 

kev2

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1) You have power at ALDL - and still no communication?
2) Restate which 2 fuses have no power?
3) I do not see the CCRM in the ABS - SO I will add the diagram I have -

PS- Fixing #1 above would make the chase a lot easier... Anything to add - progress?
When you start vehicle will the CEL come on for @2 secomds then go out?
 

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ivane21

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Ok update. All underhood fuses have power and good on both sides.
Under dash fuses
#35 power with brakes
#37 power with headlights
#38 no power
#41 no power

ALDL #16 has power tan/ orange
ALDL #2, #4, #5 all have ground.

I unplugged Abs module and did not get any power at pin#30, but maybe it needs to be plugged in? Couldn't do continuity test no multimeter yet. I'll go get one.

I found C144 and was unable to use test light to check anything there. Need to get multimeter.

I found C1 30 and checked it just incase. I found C144 hard to access it's at the back of the cylinder head.
Did not seperate.
I think I need to either get the multimeter or bring it in...
Starting to feel like I'm getting nowhere, but you guys are all a big help. I just worry I could ruin the transmission driving it this way.

By the way when checking the ALDL I say a relay behind the traction control switch.

Every connection that I disconnected looked good, pins were there, no corrosion or bent or missing.

Can I remove the CCM and test it?
What about the PCM? Location? Testing?
I'm going to get the multimeter now. Need one anyways.
Thank you everyone.
Keep the tips coming.

Yes the SES light does come on for 2 seconds and go away. I will try m generic ABS scan tool once more before leaving for Sears.
 

ivane21

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I want to say yes but I don't have those relay boxes on the side. Only one large aluminum type of fuse. This is the one under the dash I am describing.
 

ivane21

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Not sure if this will show up or not but I tried posting the pictures of the fuse box.

But here is a link to how mine looks:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/v6-tech/114964d1289065414-2001-v6-mustang-unusual-electrical-issue-fuse-box-before.jpg
 

The old man

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Everything looks good so far. Those fuses that show no voltages are controlled by the Multifunction switch and don't show voltage to the fuse all the time. I would not worry about them.
Forget about what I suggested about pin 30 and connector 144. It is too confusing about the readings.
You need to do the rest of the diagnostic by following the instructions on the download that you put posted concerning checking the ABS module connector c-135 when there is no connection from it to scanner. This should narrow the search.

I have a schematic to show you the circuits involved to make it easier to understand which side to check. (Harness side) The check for the grounds are done separately . You need a multimeter to do this test.
 

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NickD

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Not sure what the SES lamp has to do with the ABS lamp, that drawing that Old man showed is very useful using an ohmmeter to test the continuity for each wheel sensor. Around a thousand ohms as I recall, but not important, all four should read about the same at that connector.

If you find an open circuit measure again at the wheel sensor connector, lets you know if that is bad or in the wiring.

Can't always believe these circuit diagrams, shows only one intermediate connector at the wheel sensor, in one vehicle found another intermediate connector around the wheel well that was badly corroded. Just cut the darn thing out, used heat shrink and soldered the wires. Not like I have to unplug it everyday.
 

nickb2

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I like this thread, interesting, if your genric scan tool shows data, just jack four up and spin them, will see data, if not, with volt meter in ac mode, you will see fluctuation on small scale. Is power restored to fuse 37?

I have seen instrument clusters confound many techs, :idea:
 

ivane21

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Nick, when you say voltages do you mean by unplugging the abs sensor and using a multimeter?
I know "the old man" said to follow the ALLDATA troubleshooting, but it's a little difficult. I will try my best, just bought a new multimeter and I have my Innova OBD2 with abs scan tool. I'll try hooking it up this AM and see if I get anything.

I know when my buddy had it at the shop with his wireless Snap-On scanner we saw a P1000 code and also a "U" code which I now know is for abs, we got it by just doing a KOEO OBD generic test for Ford.

I wish I would have gotten that "U" code...
 

nickb2

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yes, you can mesure a wheel speed sensor with a multimeter in ac mode, a u code usually means bcm or abs unit code, wish you had it, could narrow down. wondering why the snapon scanner did not get the u code, try again 8) if all wheel sensor regiser on dvm, look to wiring, if wiring ok, abs unit, will post back on p0100, but u code is key here, will help to narrow down. :thx
 

ivane21

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Update,

Well I've done more ALLDATA research and the code P1000 is where I started and then it brings me to transmission and drivetrain. After reading a bit it seems more and more like that CCRM is/could be the culprit. With the snow and salt in Minnesota. Also knowing that it controls the fan relays, this car overheats in the summer time and still never really fixed it but we rarely see over 100 degrees here. I saw some on ebay, does anyone know what the price is at the Ford dealer? I don't have ALLDATA at home. Also it backfired a few times and this thing controls fuel. So I think if I'm going to throw any parts at it this would be the one...
I will try removing the tire and looking at the connection there tomorrow. I also found a place in Van Nuys CA that fixes ABS modules. 2 day turn around, they claim you can seperate the electric from the hydraulic and still drive the car. $70 plus back and for shipping.
I'm thinking of doing those listed above and if not then I'll have to resort to the dealer. I really appreciate all of the help everyone has given on this topic and I'll be sure to check in and keep the post updated.
 
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