2002 Lincoln continental temporary no start

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Aug 3, 2007
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Work about a half day today on my sons 2002 lincoln continental because of a 210 miliamp draw on the battery taking the battery down. Figured it was a module that was not shutting down. Found out that it is something to do with the "Deactivator switch"power to the speed servo, or the "Brake pedal positon switch" power to the ABS module. Pulled all the fuses in the "Central " fuse box inside the car before I found the area of the problem and got the miliamp draw down to 35 miliamps. (I guess the ABS Module finally went to sleep when problem was eliminated.)

Though everything was cool until I went to start the car and it would crank the engine over but would not start. My stomach went soar and I thought I blew the PCM. Traced my steps and went back to the Central fuse panel and realized that I put the 10 amp fuse that served the "Brake shift interlock,Vechicle Dynamic Module,Instrument Cluster,Low tire pressure module,Speed control Servo, and heat switched for the seats, in a spare fuse hole instead of the proper place for it. After all, there is only 34 or so fuses in the Central fuse box. (Whewww). Put the fuse in the proper place and it started right up. Who would have thought a 10 amp fuse to the instrument panel etc would stop a car from starting up. I don't know if it was shutting down the fuel, ignition or what. Modern technology!!!

I just thought I would share my stupity with you today.
 
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And my wife didn't fully close the vanity mirror door on my 88 Supra leaving the lamps on. Opening and closing the passenger side door was enough to trigger that lamp on or off.

That was a 0.6 amp load or 14.4 AH per day, battery would be dead in four days, yours sounds like a battery would be dead in 12 days or maybe a bit more with a larger battery.

Always hot is intended to drive anyone nuts, using a power MOSFET transistor with a near infinite input impedance where even a tad of moisture can switch it on, even partially, all have a linear mode. We should probably install a digital ammeter with 0.01 ampere resolution to make sure everything is powered down. But that ammeter will more than likely drain down the battery.

Practically all aircraft have a master switch that when off, disables a solenoid completely disconnecting the positive terminal of the battery. Maybe that is what we should add.