2003 Hyundai Elantra charging problems

corcovado

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Make
Hyundai
Model
Elantra
Year
2003
Miles
26,000
Engine
2.0
Hello,
Just purchased car. Battery light on, had no heat or a/c, radio, clock, headlights interior lights, horn. Although hazards, blinkers, parking lights, power windows and locks worked. But wipers were very slow to wipe. Needed alternator changed. Put in rebuilt unit. Now, A/c, headlights work. But radio, interior lights, horn, clock still don't. Wipers still wipe very slow. Had car running for about 10 minutes, Rpms started to surge and stalled. Battery dead.
Recharged battery and started back up.
Suspect that auction yard attendant inadvertently reversed the cables on his portable jump box.
Car did not have this problem before I bid on it.
What could be the problem?
Perhaps some pattern failure with a fusible link?
Thanks in advance.
 

grcauto

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There's a fuse at the battery. I think it's 150 amps but could be 120. Regardless that is the feed from the alternator.
 

corcovado

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By any chance would you have a schematic?
Do you think I've done damage to the new alternator?
Thank you
 

paulo57509

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I thought I hit paydirt but the manual I have is for an '03 Accent. :confused:

If anyone knows if both are wired the same....?
 

billr

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OP, do you have an electrical multimeter and know how to use it?
 

NickD

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If that vehicle didn't have this problem before you bid on it but did after you did, why did you purchase it? Not like a 50's-60's vehicle where reversing the polarity of battery does practically no damage what so ever, and vacuum tube radios don't care.

Has a PTC, and several BCM's, if they are toast, not sure what you paid for this, but reversing polarity can do a lot of damage, could be all your airbag circuits are shot. Only 26,000 miles on a 2003?

Good news is that apparently no one was hurt, know of lawsuits where reversing the polarity of a high power battery charger without reverse polarity protection was in for a huge lawsuit.

First thing to go in an alternator all six main rectifier diodes will be blown, the the voltage regulator.
 

grcauto

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LOOK at the battery positive and you'll see the fuse for the alternator.
 

billr

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I want to keep this thread on-track, trying to help the OP solve the existing problem. There are a lot of unknowns right now, and the root problem could be as simple as a poor ground connection or as vast as burned wiring harnesses. Reversing battery polarity is a fairly common error, and most systems are protected for that; let's not declare disaster yet.

I still need an answer about the multimeter. If using that is not going to happen, then I probably will quit here. Trying to solve electrical problems without that basic tool is maddening (and probably expensive).

If there is any concern about the present condition of the battery or alternator, take them out and to a FLAPs for testing. Those are pretty easy to R & R and the testing is free, so let's not waste time wondering about their condition. Yes, results from that testing at the FLAPS may not be the best, but should be good enough to eliminate a gross/fatal problem with either the battery or alt.
 

corcovado

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Billr .... Yes, I do have a multimeter.
Just need to know what to set the dial on to get the correct reading.

NickD... car was already deliveried when I found out the issue with the charging.

Grcauto... I see the 120 amp fuse for the battery which is mounted outside the fuse box under the hood adjacent to the negative battery post.
 

billr

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How do you know the alternator "needed to be changed"? Will it crank and start now, run for several minutes so you can do some testing? does it seem to crank at a normal speed, doesn't struggle through each compression stroke? My understanding is the alternator is new now, and you have a battery charger handy to keep it charged during this trouble-shooting process. Still, if there is any question about the condition of the battery or alt, have them tested. Having the battery go "dead" after only 10 minutes of running hints at either a huge short someplace or a bad battery. An inop alternator would not cause that. What does "dead" mean? Did it drop down below 8V or so? Were you measuring that at the battery terminals?

Do you have live-data available? That, too, is a "must have" with modern cars if you want to keep your mental health!

Can I assume there are no codes sets?
 

nickb2

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Should I chime in? Maybe.

I am in agreement with bill and grc. Check basics first.

Fuse is blown yes no toaster.

Irene is my greek gf, so disregard, had a problem with my pdf writer.

Should be a printable of 2003 h elantra.
 

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nickb2

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so, looking at diagram, if 100amp fuse is good, look to 20 amp ecu fuse,

After you have checked these basic things, and no joy, as bill said we will help further.

Hope the schematic helps.

This is a VERY basic korea design, should NOT be a problem to diagnose. If worst case scenario does arise such as a cooked ecu, we will deal with that later, right now, just looking at a wiring or fuse problem as others wrote above.
 

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corcovado

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Thanks all for the replies.

To clarify further:

Battery light was on, and no accessories except for parking lights, instrument cluster, and power locks.

Rebuilt alternator installed.

I do have access to live stream data. And battery charger.

No codes as of this writing.

Car cranks fine and starts right up.

Changed 120 amp battery fuse ( was blown)

Still no radio, clock, horn , or interior lights.

Wipers wipe somewhat faster than before.

Mini fuses (see through) are good. Perhaps solid color fuses for the
aforementioned inoperative accessories are blown?

fwiw, the 120 amp battery fuse is slightly different with regards to the way the prongs are shaped (old one was solid prong with a hole in center; new one (bussman flp 20) is "u shaped" however It fit fine with no problems.

Auto parts clerk told me fuse is a dealer item only.

However, I got this one (bussman) off the shelf.

Is the change in the prongs a problem? A google search says that this bussman fuse is not for my application.

See attached pictures.

Thank you again IMG_8947.jpgIMG_8948.jpg
 

billr

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That new fuse should be fine. Without going into detail, my opinion is that is simply an improved design.

OK, good to know the engine cranks and runs fine. What does the battery voltage rise to when the engine is at a "fast idle" (~2000 rpm)? If you do not see a rise, then read voltage right at the alternator out put stud/terminal. Still no joy? Then take the alt out and have it tested. Let's confirm a lack of alt output is *only* a wiring problem.
 
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