2003 PT Cruiser Rebuilt engine

billr

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#16
Yes, in most cases I would expect an engine to start and run even if the cam signal is bogus or suspect. If the crank trigger wheel provides enough info to determine TDC (most do), then the PCM can software can default sequential COP or (coil-near-plug) ignition to "wasted COP", firing two coils at once. Likewise full-sequential injection can default to semi-sequential, or even retain sequential but not timed right; and engine will run that way but probably not as well.
 
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#17
Well looks like I'm pullin oil pan again to double check crank.
 
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#18
I doubt the crank would work tone rings on opposite ends -
NGC= Next Generation Controller
I have some conflict between text and diagrams - the cam ticks in diagrams appear 1 tooth off, lower on ex cam...yet the text states even level alignment-
while oil pan off- ck rods caps the turbo vs natural is different...might help you IDing
 

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#19
Thanks, will check this out , the exhaust cam tick is slightly lower during belt install but should all line once tensioner is applied
 
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#21
Well pulled off oil pan, right crank, right rods for turbo, tone ring appears to be ok, lines up nice with sensor no visible defects, now? Guess pull off cam sprockets see if broken dowel pin?
 

billr

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#23
Which crank do you have, trigger wheel in front, or back at flywheel flange? I see a lot of references to this code being caused by a cracked flex-plate; I would think that is why the trigger was moved to the front of the crank...
 
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#24
Actually in my research shows tone ring machined onto crank at front but then upgraded to bolt-on at rear, flywheel is in good shape, checked when installed engine. I have updated crank.
 

billr

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#25
So much for that idea. I really didn't see how a cracked flex-plate could affect the crank/cam position sensing (unless crank triggering was right on the flex-plate), but I passed it on for your consideration. Oh, well.
 
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#28
There have been two cam sensors used on these engines, one for the FWD applications
and one for RWD Jeeps.
• The FWD sensor bolts on the back of the intake cam. It’s a round, plastic disc with a circular magnet
inlaid in it. We don’t supply it with the engine.
• The RWD motors have a stamped, metal “washer” that has a larger diameter half way around it so it can be read by the cam sensor that sticks through a hole in the front cover. It must be properly installed when the engine is assembled or it won’t start when it’s in the vehicle. The “tonering”
for the cam sensor is available under p/n 53010549AA

check out 2nd attachment below
 

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#29
Thanks, I have the one on back, with a new OEM sensor but I am going to pull magnet tonight again just to double check for damage.
 
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#30
look at my above post - there are 2 attachments - look at the lower attachment.
I think it refers to 2 magnets for FWD, the NGC being different from the prior design-